Belle au Parfum de Oud by Estéban

*****

Year: 2012

Notes: mandarin, saffron, cistus, lily, ylang-ylang, labdanum, patchouli, nagarmotha, oud

Comment: Belle au Parfum de Oud is part of the Empreinte Collection

With an end to the oud craze still far from sight, Estéban has decided to try its luck...

For an oud fragrance, Belle au Parfum de Oud is pretty disappointing for what it actually delivers. Opening with a fruity oud aroma, the oud note fades very quickly – leaving the usual dusty Estéban woody-resinous drydown, amidst a plum-like underpinning. Also, one discerns more saffron and patchouli than oud, which belies its given name (although one isn't completely surprised).

It's warm and contemporary, with a predictably sweet and creamy drydown of woods, amber and spices, but its evolution is too rapid. Staying close to the skin and lingering for at least six hours, one would have appreciated more development after the first few minutes, a greater oud presence (synthetic or not) and more sillage.

Overall, it's just another bland and unimaginative rendition of oud that won't win many admirers.

Sonata Flower by Estéban

*****

Year: 2008

Notes: yuzu, freesia, jasmine, gardenia, iris, vetiver, woods, musk

Comment: Sonata Flower is part of Les Floraux Collection

Sonata Flower is one of three floral fragrances by Estéban (with Angelica Flower and Oriental Flower being the other two). Unfortunately, it's just as nonchalant and uninspiring.

With a brief spicy opening, the yuzu is neither zesty nor vibrant but instead adds a fruity sweetness. The florals are initially blurred beyond recognition, before each note endeavours to take turns in showcasing their olfactory virtues. Even though the vetiver arrives earlier than expected, it's the floral accords of jasmine and gardenia that persist the longest. With a sweet woody-musk base, the whole affair is both languid and ever so polite.

Although its overall construction is more successful than its two floral siblings, one can only see it appealing to those who personally prefer either lighter or more discreet floral offerings in general.

Fureur d'Agrumes by Estéban

*****

Year: 2006

Notes: bergamot, grapefruit, tarragon, violet leaf, jasmine, iris, vetiver, patchouli, amber

Comment: Fureur d'Agrumes is part of Les Couleurs Collection

Strangely, one can detect an unmistakeable cedar-like accord running throughout Fureur d'Agrumes...

Commencing with a thorny opening of pepper and citrus, the aniseed-like tarragon soon emerges to soften this unexpected and harsh introduction. Dusty florals are insinuated, while the iris accentuates a powdery aura. As the woody-amber base progresses further into the spotlight, one can't help but deeming Fureur d'Agrumes as a somewhat darker version of one of Estéban's later creations, Bois Plume.

With the typically lacking sillage and longevity that one has come to expect from this house's Eau de Toilettes, its unexceptional performance isn't really worth getting annoyed about.

Pivoine by Estéban

*****

Year: 2006

Notes: lychee, violet, freesia, cyclamen, peony, Chinese plum, sandalwood, woods, musk

Comment: Pivoine is part of Les Matières Collection / Eau de Toilette review

Pivoine is encapsulated via a fruity-floral aroma of decay. The woods conflict with poorly conceived florals, while a strong plum note adds a jammy sweetness to its skewed demeanour. By the drydown, it becomes easier to tolerate, with the combination of plum and woods producing a slightly sharp caramel-like aura.

With moderate longevity and sillage, it struggles to emulate the olfactory legacy of Shiseido's Féminité du Bois and, instead, smells like a messy and poorly-conceived mainstream designer fragrance.

Bois Velours by Estéban

*****

Year: 2009

Notes: pepper, grains of paradise, nutmeg, flowers, leather, patchouli, vetiver, cedar, amber, sandalwood, musk

Comment: Bois Velours is part of Les Boisés Collection

With a peppery opening, Bois Velours almost instantaneously showcases the florals and leather. The nutmeg and grains of paradise (a West African spice, also known as Guinea pepper or Melegueta pepper) soon join the fray, before a complementary sandalwood accord emerges.

This culmination of notes oscillate for quite some time, from something reminiscent of peppery cardamom to a spicy leather aroma, but it's never short of compelling. The woody drydown takes a long time to fully emerge – with some vetiver and patchouli first surfacing and then the cedar much later. All the while, the woody base is enclosed in a warm ambery sweetness.

Unlike Bois Plume, there's a degree of complexity and substance that's missing in many of Estéban's Eau de Toilettes. With moderate sillage and good longevity, this spicy-woody offering is one of the better releases from this house.

Oriental Flower by Estéban

*****

Year: 2008

Notes: mandarin, aldehydes, lavender, orange blossom, tuberose, vanilla, cedar

Comment: Oriental Flower is part of Les Floraux Collection

Oriental Flower commences with pungent aldehydes, which overpower both the mandarin and orange blossom – so much that the end result is one of a musty orange aroma. With such an opening, the last thing one needs is a serving of lavender but, sure enough, it eventually materialises to greet one's weary nose.

Thankfully, these notes soon subside to allow the emergence of the tuberose, which salvages the composition from certain ruin. The slightly sweet and creamy facet of the tuberose intensifies with the arrival of the vanilla, before a woody drydown of cedar provides an earthy woodiness until its final moments on the skin.

Possessing moderate sillage and so-so longevity, Oriental Flower is more substantial than Angelica Flower but its opening isn't as attractive. But then again, it was the only stage that didn't verge into generic territory.

Angelica Flower by Estéban

*****

Year: 2008

Notes: bergamot, angelica seed, violet, Rose de Mai, iris, amber, musk

Comment: Angelica Flower is part of Les Floraux Collection

With a sparkling citrus-infused floral opening, both the rose and iris tentatively peer through Angelica Flower's fragrant top notes. Consolidated by an underlying violet accord, it's a very light and simple floral offering, with a sweet and noticeably denser ambery musk drydown.

Overall, it's a pleasant scent but it lacks an edge and is devoid of sufficient depth.

Colère d'Épices by Estéban

*****

Year: 2006

Notes: cardamom, ginger, clove, cyclamen, heliotrope, benzoin, amber, musk

Comment: Colère d'Épices is part of Les Couleurs Collection

Colère d'Épices opens up with a trinity of feeble spices, set against a synthetic and floral ozonic backdrop. The spices then suddenly disappear, in order to make way for vague traces of heliotrope and benzoin.

The ozonic aspect gradually dies down but an artificial aroma still persists, as an unpleasant and slightly burnt plastic note surfaces (courtesy of the heliotrope) and increases with vigour. Combined with an amber and musk base, the eventual drydown is somewhat sharp, sweet and powdery.

Going by the name, there's nothing tumultuous or even sinister about the composition in the slightest, since its performance is more akin to a domesticated cat than a wild tiger. With gentle sillage and below average lasting power, it's the only cheap-smelling Estéban release that one has encountered so far.

Folie de Figue by Estéban

*****

Year: 2006

Notes: bergamot, bay leaf, fig leaf, white fig, orange blossom, fig wood, cedar

Comment: Folie de Figue is part of Les Couleurs Collection

With pleasing and vibrant green top notes, one is also able to discern a subdued mentholated aroma during the opening of Folie de Figue. The bright bergamot perfectly complements the bracing astringency of the leaves, as a subtle orange blossom accord later joins to provide some sweetness and warmth to the proceedings.

Unfortunately, as a result of this, its uplifting green demeanour is completely lost – and that's when things start going downhill, never to make a satisfactory recovery. The subsequent accents of bay leaf, fig and fig wood are so discreet that one can only smell them close to the actual point of application. In addition, there's hardly any cedar evident during the drydown (not that one is complaining).

With a suggestive creamy drydown, the presence of the fig is disappointingly tenuous. Apart from an extremely promising opening, the composition just doesn't have much to offer, as it's too anaemic and short-lived for one to derive substantial enjoyment from it.

It's certainly not a patch on either Diptyques's Philosykos or Profumum's Ichnusa, that's for sure.

Tourbillon de Thé by Estéban

*****

Year: 2006

Notes: bergamot, grapefruit, bitter orange, mango, tea, rose, jasmine, vanilla, sandalwood, musk

Comment: Tourbillon de Thé is part of Les Couleurs Collection

Tourbillon de Thé starts out somewhat unbalanced, as the citrus notes are immediately suppressed by a sweet mango accord. The florals are discreet but, occasionally, the rose is quite discernible. As the mango gradually subsides, floral traces fuse with a subtle tea note. Slowly over time, the tea intensifies and becomes smokier, against a gently emerging backdrop of vanilla, sandalwood and musk.

Like many of the Eau de Toilette releases from this house, it's too slight to even consider purchasing. It's still a pleasant fragrance but please avoid if you dislike mango.

Tempête de Zeste by Estéban

*****

Year: 2006

Notes: grapefruit, mandarin, blackcurrant, basil, freesia, cyclamen, iris water, patchouli, sandalwood

Comment: Tempête de Zeste is part of Les Couleurs Collection

Tempête de Zeste is a slightly pleasant but, ultimately, flat and boring woody-citrus.

With lethargic citrus top notes, hints of blackcurrant and basil briefly surface, before the woody base jumps the queue at the expense of the florals. Subtle traces of patchouli quickly intensify before the florals eventually put their foot down, but their victory is relatively short-lived. With a faint jammy floral aroma, a soft sandalwood note gradually emerges – all of which later dry down to a resinous whisper.

With low sillage, and longevity of less than two hours, it's more of an Eau de Cologne than an Eau de Toilette. Other than that, it's terribly nondescript.

Classic Chypre by Estéban

*****

Year: 2007

Notes: bergamot, basil, spices, rose, jasmine, vanilla, patchouli, vetiver, oakmoss

Comment: Classic Chypre is part of Les Chypres Collection

With a woody-aromatic opening, and an underlying foundation of vanilla and woods, Classic Chypre smells very similar to Montale's Boisé Vanillé upon first inspection. This is probably due its resinous and spicy disposition, resulting in more of a resemblance to an oriental than a chypré. But, with some patience, the florals and woods gradually reveal themselves before the composition blooms into what its name implies.

Of course, it lacks the complexity of the classic chyprés but one surely has to admire Estéban for releasing it. With a certain element of sweetness, Classic Chypre possesses good projection and longevity. It's also just as noteworthy as Modern Chypre, if not more.

Bois Plume by Estéban

*****

Year: 2009

Notes: bergamot, cardamom, lavender, rose, iris, patchouli, cedar, Brazilian rosewood, cinnamon, sandalwood

Comment: Bois Plume is part of Les Boisés Collection

Bois Plume is a dry and dusty woody-floral, with a noticeable iris note. The woods are seamlessly blended and the floral accords provide an understated sweetness. The rose occasionally surfaces, while the rosewood emits a subtle berry-like aroma. With a soft sandalwood and cinnamon infused base, the drydown is slightly nutty.

Like many of Estéban's Eau de Toilettes, both sillage and longevity could have been more substantial. While it succeeds in evoking the aroma of sliced wood, it's a pleasant skin scent but, alas, nothing more.

Patchouli by Estéban

*****

Year: 2008

Notes: pink pepper, black pepper, violet leaf, white rose, iris, labdanum, patchouli

Comment: Patchouli is part of Les Matières Collection

Patchouli is a very strange beast indeed...

With an incognito peppery opening, the composition whizzes straight to the core, where one's nose is met with a moderately sweet floral bouquet. The white rose is both rich and vivid, while the other floral accords shy away apologetically. There's also a sweet and unexpected tea note caught up in the proceedings.

At this point, the patchouli is still sorely absent. It's all rather concerning as it now smells very similar to a Les Parfums de Rosine creation. Several moments pass before the realisation that the tea note identified earlier is, in fact, a clean patchouli and labdanum base intermingling with the florals. Yes, a prudent earthiness eventually reveals itself but the end result is simply confounding.

So, Patchouli is more of a woody-floral than a straightforward patchouli scent. It could appeal to those seeking something of this ilk but it most certainly isn't what's stated on the bottle.

Sillage and longevity are both moderate.

Cuir by Estéban

*****

Year: 2008

Notes: mint, cardamom, pink pepper, clove, lavender, violet, leather, vetiver, patchouli, amber

Comment: Cuir is part of Les Matières Collection

While it's not that earth-shattering, Cuir is still a reasonable leather scent. It starts out smelling quite aromatic before developing into a sweeter and more powdery aroma. Besides the dominant leather note, the clove, violet and cardamom are the most evident accords, with everything else firmly relegated to the background (including the base of amber and woods).

Although it possesses an extremely subtle and sensual aura, in a buttery animalic sense, it sadly performs too close to the skin for one's personal tastes. With decent longevity, it would have been awarded an extra star if it had a little more oomph.

Cèdre by Estéban

*****

Year: 2006

Notes: citrus, herbs, spices, rose, labdanum, leather, cedar

Comment: Cèdre is part of Les Matières Collection / Eau de Toilette review

With so many male designer fragrances possessing the bland drydown of cedar, one has never really seen the point in releasing a scent that focuses on this note. With regards to Cèdre, all it does is further confirms one's lethargy towards such fragrances.

While the notes are well-integrated, the changes in its development are very slight. Furthermore, its sillage and longevity are both rather poor. With a faint cedar, labdanum and leather base, one quickly loses interest within minutes of applying it.

For a more interesting take on cedar, Serge Lutens' Cèdre would be a much better option.

Modern Chypre by Estéban

*****

Year: 2007

Notes: bergamot, green mandarin, raspberry, lily of the valley, white rose, patchouli, praline

Comment: Modern Chypre is part of Les Chypres Collection

After the tedious use of raspberry in Tauer Perfumes' Une Rose Vermeille, Estéban's Modern Chypre manages to successfully demonstrate how the same accord can be masterfully employed with some restraint.

The composition isn't particularly complex but its fruitiness is both delicious and alluring. With a tart citrus and raspberry opening, its resinous base is perceptible even from the outset. When merged with the raspberry, the floral accords produce an iris-like aroma that lingers for a considerable amount of time. The raspberry is juicy, dark, sultry and well-behaved, and remains evident even during the soft and powdery drydown.

Whilst it's not an archetypal chypré, it's still very pleasant. With average longevity and moderate sillage, those looking for a more understated and genuine smelling raspberry fragrance should look no further.

Baume Tolu by Estéban

*****

Year: 2010

Notes: green mandarin, red pepper, davana, marigold, immortelle, tonka bean, vanilla, Tolu balsam

Comment: Baume Tolu is part of Les Matières Collection

With a citrus and pepper opening, the much neglected davana note is the highlighted accord for the majority of Baume Tolu's development (and not Tolu blasam, as the name suggests).

Davana (an aromatic Indian plant) possesses a scent profile that's rich, sweet, fruity, spicy, woody and slightly camphorous. To one's nose, all of these characteristics are clearly evident, with the fruity aspect smelling more akin to succulent red grapes. Once the marigold emerges, however, a cherry-like aroma gently unfolds.

But it's only when the immortelle makes an understated appearance that the davana, yet again, transforms into a darker and spicier fruity entity, redolent of mulled wine. With the coupling of some Tolu balsam, the transition towards a delicate vanilla and tonka bean drydown is both smooth and effortless.

Possessing good longevity and sillage, this aromatic-oriental is a delightful interpretation of this Indian plant.

Ambre by Estéban

*****

Year: 2006

Notes: rhubarb, nutmeg, pink pepper, freesia, hawthorn, patchouli, amber, vanilla, sandalwood

Comment: Ambre is part of Les Matières Collection / Eau de Toilette review

With so many impressive ambers currently on the market, Ambre is up against some really tough competition. Although one wouldn't unreservedly class it as the holy grail of ambers, it's very respectable nonetheless.

While quite unusual, the spicy rhubarb opening is still compelling. The florals remain subdued but produce an almost iris-like aroma, while it's business as usual for both the patchouli and amber. The amber's resinousness is coarse and unrefined but it also smells more like labdanum than actual amber resin. With a clove-like accord running throughout, the impending drydown of vanilla and sandalwood is both smooth and serene.

With good sillage and impressive longevity, its charisma is both unique and plentiful.

Orientalissime by Estéban

*****

Year: 2008

Notes: bergamot, tea, oud, patchouli, Ghelyan vanilla, balsams, sandalwood

Comment: Orientalissime is part of Les Orientaux Collection

In Les Orientaux Collection, Orientalissime is the most intriguing and challenging of the three creations.

It starts out with a piercingly strong tea and bergamot coupling. So astringent is the opening that anyone could be forgiven for dismissing the composition entirely, due to its sheer ferocity. However, with some perseverance, one found it to become more compelling with subsequent wearings.

Interacting with the opening accords, the patchouli and oud produce an aroma very similar to yerba mate. Upon further musing, Yerbamate by Lorenzo Villoresi springs to mind but Orientalissime comes across as a far more palatable substitute. As for its oriental base, it's less prominent than Ambrorient – leading one to conclude that it exists in its current state merely to justify its status as a Les Orientaux.

Compared to the other two Les Orientaux releases, Orientalissime possesses the strongest sillage and is also reasonably long-lasting. Chances are it'll also be the least popular of the three, but this is more because of its challenging nature than anything else. Still, it's a high-quality creation that comes highly recommended.