Vetiver Veritas by Heeley

*****

Year: 2014

Notes: grapefruit, mint, lavender, Haitian vetiver

Vetiver Veritas is Heeley's first 100% natural Eau de Parfum. With Haitian vetiver accounting for well over 90% of the composition, some grapefruit, mint and lavender have also been included. The thing is, after sampling it, there's some good news and bad news...

The good news is that it's a very accurate rendition of Haitian vetiver, which allows every facet of the material to breathe. Like good quality Haitian vetiver essential oil, the star accord possesses a grassy, rooty and vegetal earthiness that's both captivating and calming. One would consider Vetiver Veritas to be richer than LesNez's Turtle Vetiver Front and, throughout its lifespan, it shimmers on the skin with a soft citrus-infused effervescence and a dry woody sweetness. And although it has low projection, it persists for at least 10 hours.

So, based on this, there really shouldn't be any bad news, right? Well, not quite...

As already mentioned, Haitian vetiver accounts for over 90% of the composition... and that's the problem. Even though additional notes are present, they're both fleeting and insubstantial. As a result, it's practically Haitian vetiver essential oil diluted with perfumer's alcohol. With very little by way of embellishments or enhancements (the latter of which Turtle Vetiver Front managed to successfully achieve), it's both unnecessary and expensive for what it offers. To be completely honest, it would be significantly cheaper to purchase the essential oil and wear that instead.

If something interesting had been done with the star accord, one's opinion would have been quite different. As it stands, it's pretty much an inessential purchase.

Bubblegum Chic by Heeley

*****

Year: 2011

Notes: red fruits, jasmine, tuberose, white musk

Of the three Heeley parfum extraits, there obviously had to be an obligatory creation for women and Bubblegum Chic is it. But, overlooking its contradictory name, its major flaw lies in its crass and juvenile demeanour.

Starting out very strong, it smells like bubblegum and possesses an overtly pink aura. However, it's also syrupy sweet, synthetic-smelling and feminine for all the wrong reasons. Ultimately, it's just another derivative tuberose and jasmine concoction, with fruity bubblegum top notes. As for 'chic', it's far from sophisticated or elegant.

With more worthwhile tuberose offerings from other houses, such as Serge Lutens, Robert Piguet, Histoires de Parfums and Frédéric Malle, Bubblegum Chic will probably appeal more to fragrance novices, teenage girls and those with an unhealthy fetish for anything pink.

Once again, with Heeley, tenacity is still a concerning and on-going issue.

Agarwoud by Heeley

*****

Year: 2011

Notes: rose, Vietnamese oud, Laotian oud, frankincense, benzoin, ambergris

According to rumours, it took four years to develop Agarwoud. Based on sampling it, one finds that very hard to believe. Well, that's unless most of that time was actually spent procuring and distilling the oud...

Surprisingly, it's a light, gentle and inoffensive rose-oud creation. There's nothing particularly dark, edgy or even innovative about it. The rose is fresh, transparent and soapy, and not in the least bit sweet or voluptuous. As for the oud itself, it's devoid of any barnyard or fruity properties, and is well-mannered instead. With ephemeral and subdued traces of frankincense, the composition rests on an amiable bed of benzoin and ambergris.

Overall, it's neither dense, bombastic nor spicy. But, at the same time, it's structurally sparse, is too restrained and plays it too safe. While it may appeal to those with conservative tastes, it's still an uninspiring release for a latecomer to the oud craze. Plus, after four years, it would only be natural to expect something more.

Persisting for less than six hours, its staying power is also lacking.

L'Amandière by Heeley

*****

Year: 2011

Notes: green almond, green notes, linden blossom, hawthorn, hyacinth, rose, jasmine, grass, woods

L'Amandière is undoubtedly the most ghastly out of the three Heeley parfum extraits.

Mainly revolving around the almond and linden blossom, it starts off as astringent, chalky and somewhat crude. With verdant, mineral and woody accents, it's noticeably metallic, clinical and drab, with the lingering fragrancy of melting plastic and cheap almond-scented body lotion.

With an overdose of almond, it smells more like an Undergreen reject with underwhelming longevity.

Coccobello by Heeley

*****

Year: 2013

Notes: sea salt, palm leaf, gardenia, coconut, Bourbon vanilla, benzoin, Virginian cedar, sandalwood

Coccobello is a woody-floral, which attempts to encapsulate the raw aroma of a freshly opened coconut, within the context of a verdant tropical olfactory setting.

It opens with a sharp and salty palm leaf accord, alongside some gritty cedar. The coconut only plays a minute role and remains watery in its stature. At the same time, it's not milky, sweet or in custody of the suntan lotion connotations that plague such offerings. However, although the palm leaf provides a good contrast, the cedar is annoyingly overbearing.

Midway through its development, the gardenia gradually surfaces but never overwhelms the woody properties of the composition. Combined with the vanilla and benzoin, a creamy floral aura melds with the dry cedar note, as a faint green coconut nuance is ever-present. Unfortunately, the further it develops, the more synthetic it smells – not even the sandalwood helps to turn things around.

While its performance is largely mellow, both sillage and longevity are just as lacking as most of the fragrances from this house. While the concept is admirable, its execution could have been a lot better.

Hippie Rose by Heeley

*****

Year: 2011

Notes: Italian bergamot, green moss, Bulgarian rose, patchouli, frankincense, Haitian vetiver, amber, musk

As opposed to the soapy, animalic or woody renditions of rose, Hippie Rose goes for the earthy option but fails to hit the mark by a large margin.

Opening with some bergamot, the composition is greatly marred by the ill-judged addition of green moss to the top notes. Maybe it was intended to accentuate a grassy earthiness, to further highlight the hippy concept, but it results in the rose smelling both unrealistic and synthetic.

Harbouring a somewhat murky undertone, the clarity of the rose and patchouli pairing improves over time but is too candied for one's liking. As it calms down, delicate wafts of frankincense materialise with the vetiver lurking in the shadows. As for the ambery musk finale, it's both sweet and clean but nothing more.

Compared to other rose-based fragrances, it offers nothing new and smells more like a generic designer scent. Furthermore, projection is so-so and its lasting power is unremarkable.

An Eau de Parfum?! Not by a long shot.

Oranges and Lemons Say the Bells of St. Clements by Heeley

*****

Year: 2010

Notes: bergamot, lemon, orange, mandarin, petitgrain, Earl Grey tea, neroli, ylang-ylang, vetiver

Oranges and Lemons Say the Bells of St. Clements attempts to revisit the classic citrus Eaux de Cologne with disappointing results.

While there's actually nothing wrong with its hesperidic structure, there's nothing related to its performance that certifies its stated concentration of an Eau de Parfum. With a simple, subtle and extremely fleeting demeanour, it fails to convincingly differentiate itself from the source of its inspiration. Personally, one would rather settle on a similar (and cheaper) Eau de Cologne from, say, Guerlain.

One star deducted for its ostentatious price and deceptive pseudo-concentration claim.

Ophélia by Heeley

*****

Year: 2009

Notes: green stems, water lily, ylang-ylang, jasmine, tuberose, moss, ambergris, white musk

Ophélia is inspired by John Everett Millais' painting of Shakespeare's heroine, Ophelia.

Essentially, it's a delicate white floral that's not particularly original and is too translucent for its own good. With a complementary but verdant facet, the water lily adds a light aquatic touch, as a honeyed sweetness pervades throughout the majority of its unimpressive lifespan.

While it's unequivocally feminine, it soon descends into a soapy mire, as the green florals wilt amidst a prudent serving of moss and musk. It's not a bad effort but it's certainly not worth the money.

Sel Marin by Heeley

*****

Year: 2008

Notes: Italian bergamot, lemon, beech leaf, sea salt, seaweed, moss, vetiver, birch, cedar, musk

Despite the name, Sel Marin isn't strictly an aquatic, but more of a woody-citrus with saline nuances. However, what's impressive is how it succeeds in realistically portraying the smell of the ocean breeze, without including any harsh synthetic notes.

It's fresh and refined, with a sparkling purity in its general demeanour. The citrus opening is rich and full-bodied, as it prefaces a green oceanic influx of sea salt and seaweed. This aromatic phase continues to leave a strong impression throughout its development, as it segues into a translucent woody-musk base. During the drydown, citrus remnants prevail alongside the soft emission of a creamy vetiver accord.

Although projection is quite reasonable, it offers longevity of at least six hours. No, it's not groundbreaking and, yes, it's insanely overpriced, but its strikingly natural and contemporary style is still quite impressive.

Verveine d'Eugène by Heeley

*****

Year: 2007

Notes: bergamot, rhubarb, blackcurrant, cardamom, lemon verbena, tomato leaf, fig leaf, jasmine, white musk

One has to give Verveine d'Eugene credit for not being yet another straightforward verbena offering.

The opening is both tart and fruity, with a sharp sappiness stemming from the rhubarb and blackcurrant. This is soon tempered by the cardamom, as it injects some extra sweetness. After reaching the mid notes, the lemon verbena emerges alongside a somewhat thin tomato leaf accord.

One is also able to identify a saline undercurrent, throughout this stage, which is bewildering but still intriguing. However, this is relatively short-lived, as the sweetness re-emerges but, this time, with subdued hints of fig leaf and jasmine. The ensuing musky drydown is rather aromatic – with a green backdrop on which the intensifying jasmine is able to charm, and later tame, with its creamy properties.

While restrained, the composition does manage to impress with its contrasting olfactory shifts from astringent, sweet, savoury, sweet (again) to creamy at different stages of its development. Sadly, sillage is insufficient and it's rather weak for a supposed Eau de Parfum.

Iris de Nuit by Heeley

*****

Year: 2007

Notes: angelica seed, ambrette seed, carrot seed, violet, iris, white cedar, ambergris

Iris de Nuit is a beautifully clean, crisp and minimal interpretation of iris, which is akin to a much lighter version of Serge Lutens' Iris Silver Mist (but with the earthy and vegetal aspects lowered several notches).

Just like Hermès' Hiris, the carrot seed and violet play vital roles in its overall genetic make-up, with hardly any sweetness. Also, any olfactory associations with lipstick or make-up bags are less prominent than in other iris offerings – exuding creamy and powdery flourishes. To one's nose, the violet is more prevalent than the iris but, on the whole, the composition still convinces with a very modest woody base.

However, while it possesses good lasting power, it's a whisper of a fragrance that will require multiple sprays to be satisfactorily noticeable. Its self-effacing demeanour may be alluring to some but, just like Penhaligon's and L'Artisan, one is left wondering if their stated concentrations are nothing more than a marketing fallacy.

Menthe Fraîche by Heeley

*****

Year: 2007

Notes: Sicilian bergamot, peppermint, spearmint, lotus leaf, green tea, yerba mate, freesia, white cedar

While some perceive Menthe Fraîche as the benchmark mint fragrance (bereft of any olfactory association with either toothpaste or chewing gum), one is left confused as the actual aroma is very different.

Yes, one identifies a mentholated nuance but it's certainly not the dominant chord. Instead, it shares top billing with both the green tea and yerba mate, with the spearmint being more detectable than the peppermint. Based on this alone, one would rather to classify it as more of a tea scent with a short-lived mint infusion.

It's clean, well-blended and exudes an undeniable quality. But it also lacks any real depth, lasts for about three hours and is grossly overpriced for what it delivers. As much as it presents itself as a respectable alternative to citrus-dominant Eaux de Cologne, it acts very much like one itself.

Figuier by Heeley

*****

Year: 2007

Notes: rhubarb, melon, fig leaf, white tea, grass, white cedar, white musk

Contrary to the name, Figuier isn't a fruity fig composition, but concentrates more on the woody-green aspects of the fig leaf.

The acidic rhubarb-infused opening sets the scene, but the accompanying melon becomes slightly jarring from time to time. Soon after these notes disperse, the fig leaf fully emerges, exalting a tender and smooth coconut aroma. Becoming fuller and creamier, the grass and white tea strive together to provide a dry verdant backdrop, before a light woody-musk base takes hold.

As a fig creation, it smells very true-to-life and is refined, modern and quite well-mannered. It's also structurally superior to many of the niche alternatives available, including L'Artisan's Premier Figuier (inferior lasting power), Profumo's Ichnusa (good longevity, unconvincing base) and Diptyque's Philosykos (lacking and hollow).

But this isn't enough to neglect the fact that Figuier's noticeably sheer performance is unsatisfactory. However, regardless of its shortcomings, it still comes recommended.

Cèdre Blanc by Heeley

*****

Year: 2007

Notes: cardamom, cumin, violet leaf, Lebanese cedar, white musk

Imagine a greener, less floral and watered-down version of Serge Lutens' Bois de Violette, but with some cumin added, and that's more or less what Cèdre Blanc smells like.

It's a fresh woody rendition that's just as translucent as Heeley's other releases, with the cardamom's presence being less dominant than the cedar and cumin. It also possesses a green aura from the violet leaf, which yields a grassy nuance throughout the proceedings. Alas, its performance is whimsical, with the cumin still persisting during a very uneventful drydown.

Apparently, it has since been discontinued and one can clearly see why.

Cuir Pleine Fleur by Heeley

*****

Year: 2006

Notes: Italian bergamot, cinnamon, honey, violet leaf, rose, hawthorn, mimosa, suede, castoreum, birch, vetiver, Atlas cedar

With Heeley's style being all about translucency, minimalism and streamlining, Cuir Pleine Fleur is certainly no exception. So, anyone expecting either a raunchy or gritty leather fragrance will be sorely disappointed.

Opening with traces of suede and some florals, it's supplemented by green hay-like accords. Within a matter of minutes, the honeyed florals persist, but the suede recedes to allow both the mimosa and violet leaf more room to breathe. The suede itself is soft, slightly buttery but sadly fleeting.

It intensifies during the heart and becomes increasingly powdery, as a supple leather note surfaces, with a dark and animalic aroma from the birch and castoreum. But those leathery tones are, once again, transient. A touch of cinnamon slowly moves to the fore, but the violet leaf and florals still continue to prevail, while both the vetiver and cedar silently prepare for an earthy manoeuvre...

Although its transition is smooth and effortless, one doesn't view Cuir Pleine Fleur as a certified leather scent – it's more of a woody-floral with leather facets. For the uninitiated or easily offended, it may appeal. But for those looking for something either striking or challenging, it would be advisable to look elsewhere.

Projection is very low, with subpar staying power for an Eau de Parfum.

Cardinal by Heeley

*****

Year: 2006

Notes: pink pepper, black pepper, white linen, frankincense, myrrh, labdanum, patchouli, vetiver, ambergris

A lighter, warmer and sweeter version of Comme des Garçons' Avignon is the first thought that springs to mind, when smelling Cardinal.

Possessing a clean soapy opening, one discerns a green woody base with a resinous sweetness. There's also an underlying coniferous facet, while the frankincense provides a citrus-like lift. And although it doesn't start out as peppery as originally expected, the drydown is noticeably dry and somewhat dusty.

Compared to other incense fragrances, Cardinal lacks an identity – venturing into the territory of Avignon, Josef Statkus' Josef Statkus and Montale's Full Incense, but failing to offer anything distinctive. Its weak performance on the skin also puts it at odds with the more robust Black Tourmaline by Olivier Durbano, and there are a slew of more worthwhile curios available (such as Etro's Messe de Minuit and Andy Tauer's Incense Extrême).

Overall, it's a lacklustre creation with poor longevity and sillage, and in desperate need of some originality.

Esprit du Tigre by Heeley

*****

Year: 2006

Notes: camphor, peppermint, spearmint, wintergreen, cardamom, black pepper, clove, cinnamon, vetiver

Inspired by the aroma of Tiger Balm, Esprit du Tigre is extremely disappointing, to say the least.

Just like the heat rub, camphor, mint and clove are among the chords in the composition, alongside vetiver and some spices. But overall it's more of a fresh woody-aromatic that's nowhere medicinal (an olfactory aspect that the wintergreen should naturally impart). Once the main notes have vanished, all that remains is a thin peppery drydown that's strongly reminiscent of a fresh bowl of salted popcorn.

Although it's a noble attempt, the price is much too steep for what it is, especially when taking into account its unsatisfactory performance. As Tiger Balm possesses healing properties, has a more compelling aroma and is very affordable, it would make more sense to obtain the real thing and just liberally smear it on.