Florentina by Sylvaine Delacourte

*****

Year: 2016

Notes: bergamot, lavender, orange blossom, violet, carnation, Tuscan iris, heliotrope, bitter almond, benzoin, Haitian vetiver, white musk

"To create Florentina, I was guided by the colour blue, a symbol of softness and tenderness."

     ~ Sylvaine Delacourte

Intended to replicate the aroma of Sylvaine's childhood talcum powder, Florentina commences with an abrasive and waxy opening.

One can just about make out some lavender, violet and iris, but the other notes are largely overpowered by the bitter almond. With the heliotrope providing a vanillic powderiness, the blue-tinged chemical onslaught is simply too much for one to tolerate (although the later emergence of some vetiver and benzoin does help to temper the burnt plastic aroma).

Possessing good longevity, this one is only recommended for those who can appreciate bitter almond married with overtly synthetic white musks.

Helicriss by Sylvaine Delacourte

*****

Year: 2016

Notes: bergamot, grapefruit, lemon, rosemary, sage, cedar leaf, Keralan cinnamon, frankincense, immortelle, patchouli, benzoin, Venezuelan tonka bean, moss, white musk

"A memory of my holidays in Corsica, it makes me think of the very distinctive fragrance of the scrub lands, a warm and welcoming scent."

     ~ Sylvaine Delacourte

Based on immortelle (or helichrysum italicum), Helicriss is generally underwhelming.

For a start, one discerns more spices than immortelle, with the overall olfactory result being redolent of a sweet and spicy condiment for spare ribs. Radiating very close to the skin, an earthy muskiness eventually emerges, but remains eclipsed by that same sweet and spicy barbecue sauce aroma.

Inaccurately associated with the colour grey, doughy nuances become more evident before revealing a caramel musk denouement. With average longevity, it's certainly not to one's tastes but, going by the rest of the line, it could have been a lot worse.

Lilylang by Sylvaine Delacourte

*****

Year: 2016

Notes: bergamot, lime, mandarin, Madagascan pink pepper, ylang-ylang, jasmine, tuberose, white musk

Reportedly an olfactory reminder of Sylvaine's holidays on Réunion Island, Lilylang is just another generic white floral musk scent with a piercing metallic aura.

The citruses barely register, there's no discernible spiciness and the white florals are too one-dimensional to be noteworthy. As the composition further develops, the metallic sheen gradually fades but it's not enough to save what is already a fledgling composition.

Smelling closer to the colour pink, as opposed to yellow, sillage is minimal and its staying power (of under two hours) is abysmal for an Eau de Parfum. If tenacity was better, it might have been awarded an extra star.

Dovana by Sylvaine Delacourte

*****

Year: 2016

Notes: mandarin, neroli, Bulgarian rose, Tuscan iris, heliotrope, vanilla, sandalwood, ambrette seed, white musk

"... the colour white describes it well, white being a symbol of purity and freshness."

     ~ Sylvaine Delacourte

And so another perfume industry insider jumps onto the niche bandwagon and launches their own line of niche fragrances. This time, it's the former creative director of Guerlain, Sylvaine Delacourte, which surely must be a daunting prospect after working for such an illustrious classic house.

Sylvaine's new collection comprises of five unisex scents, with white musk being the common theme. Working with the "crème de la crème of French industry", all five creations present different portraits of white musk, with each one based on a specific colour and personal recollection. With an understated elegance, they all strive to caress the wearer, instead of "striking you like a blow".

Dovana is a soft olfactory depiction of the colour white, and was inspired by the aroma of Sylvaine's childhood soap. With orangey nuances and a wispy floral nucleus, the composition rests on a light foundation of vanilla, sandalwood and musk. The ambrette seed ensures that its general aroma isn't clinically clean but, ultimately, it's an inoffensive floral-oriental musk that's understated yet not too sweet.

Although it smells balanced and well-composed, it's olfactorily closer to the colour cream than white. However, strictly within the context of a white musk offering, it's an undeniably pleasant experience. Exuding fruity-floral traces, during the drydown, its evolution is virtually seamless with any metallic aroma chemical tinges kept to a bare minimum.

Remaining close to the skin, with excellent lasting power, it's also very reasonably priced.

Smeraldo by Sylvaine Delacourte

*****

Year: 2016

Notes: yuzu, lime, pear, angelica root, cedar leaf, hawthorn, Bulgarian rose, mastic, Haitian vetiver, white musk

The original intention for Smeraldo was to be "both detoxifying and purifying, like the fresh air in the morning..." The problem is, it smells more like a cheap fruity-green candle, made with paraffin and synthetic fragrance oils. Oh, the irony...

The combination of pear and angelica root is rather hideous, and Sylvaine's far-fetched claim of verdant purity is laughable at best. Furthermore, something so brazenly artificial being compared to fresh morning air leaves one completely perplexed.

The sad thing is, no amount of marketing bullshit can disguise the fact that it's a clinical abomination, which is best avoided at all costs.