Arabico by Farmacia SS. Annunziata

*****

Year: 2013

Notes: bergamot, lemon, pepper, frankincense, lavandin, lavender, Egyptian geranium, patchouli, cedar, vetiver, musk

Out of all the Italian niche houses, Farmacia SS. Annunziata is one of the most confounding. One would like to think that its fragrances are at least respectable but most of them simply aren't. With Arabico, one's opinion of this house isn't going to change anytime soon.

Basically, it's a peppery cedar offering that's soapy, inoffensive and feeble. With extremely faint traces of citrus, lavender and vetiver, the composition's so thin that it's hardly detectable on the skin. Apart from a woody-green late-drydown, which is redolent of Lalique's Encre Noire, there aren't any other redeeming qualities.

Claiming to be a highly concentrated offering, it's nothing more than a pathetic joke.

Talc Gourmand by Farmacia SS. Annunziata

*****

Year: 2012

Notes: honey, vanilla blossom, heliotrope, talcum powder, caramel, chocolate, tonka bean, vanilla, sandalwood

Talc Gourmand is exactly what the name implies – a powdery gourmand.

Regrettably, it's nothing more than a variation on the loukhoum theme (but with caramel and chocolate instead of the rose and almond). And although it's closer in spirit to Lorenzo Villoresi's Teint de Neige, Talc Gourmand lacks the finesse of many of its peers. Possessing a chalky powderiness, its texture is also remarkably similar to scented talcum powder.

Drawing to a close with an acrid, synthetic and dusty ambery drydown, it's a passable release but there are far better alternatives out there.

Vetyver Incenso by Farmacia SS. Annunziata

*****

Year: 2012

Notes: bergamot, grapefruit, lemon, pink pepper, juniper berry, ginger, frankincense, cedar, patchouli, vetiver, oakmoss, ambergris

One initially had high hopes for Vetyver Incenso but, going by this niche house's track record, one should have known better.

In a nutshell, it's a quiet vetiver and frankincense outing, with cedar accents. Also, the citrus opening is acutely ephemeral and the spices are firmly relegated to the background. With rubbery and salty nuances, it's tedious, uninspired and remarkably thin. But what redeems it slightly is the oakmoss drydown with a hint of something vanillic. It's only during this stage when things start to fall into place, even though it's now nothing more than a lingering skin scent.

Contrary to popular belief, Vetyver Incenso isn't exactly a clone of Hermès' Terre d'Hermès. But, in saying that, Vetyver Incenso also doesn't possess the same stellar staying power as this Hermès' classic.

Fiore di Riso by Farmacia SS. Annunziata

*****

Year: 2011

Notes: bergamot, mandarin, ginger, white flowers, marigold, davana, benzoin, tonka bean, vanilla, sandalwood, oakmoss

Fiore di Riso is a beguiling and elegant floral gourmand, which comes as an unexpected surprise.

With a citrus and vanilla opening, Profumum's Dulcis in Fundo vaguely springs to mind. But while there may be an initial similarity, Fiore di Riso isn't as dense, with the citruses being crisper, brighter and more ethereal. The differences become even clearer when the emergence of dainty white florals add a feminine touch – with neroli, orange blossom, jasmine and ylang-ylang being possible undisclosed contenders.

As the creamy zestiness persists, the floral tone intensifies with a touch of marigold. A faint booziness is also evident, from the davana, but its volume never increases. As it progresses, the white florals soon give way to an ambery-vanillic drydown, accompanied by some sandalwood and a hint of oakmoss.

In summary, it's a soft skin creation, with dreamy vanillic facets, which isn't syrupy sweet or overtly floral. Even though its lasting power is somewhat lacking, it's still a lovely olfactory experience that's harmoniously bended in a skilful manner.

Aromadite by Farmacia SS. Annunziata

*****

Year: 2008

Notes: lemon, orange, dill, aromatic notes, ginger, spices, tea, flowers, amber, vanilla, powdery musk

There's something odd about Aromadite that just doesn't work...

Call it an abstract structural imbalance, if you will. Maybe it's the dill, maybe it's just the saccharine sweetness of the citrus accords, or maybe it's because the uncouth fruity-floral blending is extremely reminiscent of Tauer Perfumes' Une Rose Vermeille.

With prominent ginger-infused florals, resulting in a tea-like diffusion, it spends most of its time coming across as cheap-smelling and unpleasant. It's only several hours later, into the musky and spicy vanillic drydown, that it becomes a far less laborious experience.

Although it boasts exceptional longevity, with minimal sillage, it's sadly muddled and unfocused.

Vaniglia del Madagascar by Farmacia SS. Annunziata

*****

Year: unknown

Notes: lemon, flowers, amber, Madagascan vanilla

With so many instances of déjà vu, currently plaguing the perfume industry, Vaniglia del Madagascar could be seen as a positive example of such a concerning trend. To be honest, it smells approximately 99% identical to Vanitas by Profumum. Now, that's not to say Farmacia SS. Annunziata copied Profumum's effort (since there's no information to substantiate which one was released first) but you would have to be either suffering from OCD or a complete vanilla fanatic to own both of these.

Looking at the listed notes for both (which isn't really saying much) the main difference between them is largely down to their respective bases: where Vaniglia del Madagascar uses amber (that's hardly discernible), Vanitas employs myrrh and sandalwood (they are noticeable but rather subtle). The drydown of Vanitas also possesses a slightly dark and brooding undertone (courtesy of the myrrh) but, apart from that, they both smell pretty much the same.

Overall, there are only two significant distinctions between them: price and projection. Vaniglia del Madagascar does possess sufficient (albeit very moderate) sillage but, while being a parfum extrait, it's unable to match the toxic Eau de Parfum sillage of Vanitas. As for price, Vaniglia del Madagascar is a lot cheaper but that's not to say its overall quality is inferior, as they are both of a similar high standard.

Personally, the intense opulence of Vanitas is much preferred. However, if you care for a far softer alternative to Vanitas or would simply prefer a cheaper option (once you've accepted that both projection and longevity will be somewhat inferior), Vaniglia del Madagascar would make an excellent choice.

Therefore, based on personal tastes, Vaniglia del Madagascar is very good but Vanitas is more satisfying. Still, it comes highly recommended and is one of the best straightforward vanilla scents currently available.

Ambra Nera by Farmacia SS. Annunziata

*****

Year: unknown

Notes: eucalyptus, cypress, amber, benzoin, vetiver, patchouli, vanilla

Ambra Nera comes across as an improved version of Omnia Profumo's Ambra but minus the awful wax note. A honey-like amber accord shares the spotlight with some equally sweet benzoin and vanilla. The other notes are quite discreet but just about hint at their significance. Overall, its warm, smooth and very subdued.

It's a reasonable release from this house but it's also nothing to get particularly excited about. Being a soft skin scent, with average longevity, it's simply pleasant in a so-so manner.

Patchouly Indonesiano by Farmacia SS. Annunziata

*****

Year: unknown

Notes: Indonesian patchouli

Patchouly Indonesiano is a pure patchouli parfum extrait, devoid of any amber or vanilla as a supporting base.

Its dark and resinous nature reveals itself during the first five minutes but, instead of blossoming into something interesting, its development gradually recedes into an abyss of nothingness. Also, it has a lifespan of less than half-an-hour. By comparison, any Nasamotto offering could be considered nuclear as a result.

Personally, it would be more cost effective to buy a bottle of patchouli absolute from a reputable supplier.