Oro 750‰ by Omnia Profumo

*****

Year: 2010

Notes: bergamot, lemon, lavender, lilac, cyclamen, peony, vanilla, coumarin, frankincense, patchouli, sandalwood, musk

Comment: Oro 750‰ is part of the Metalli Collection

Opening with sweet and full-bodied citrus-aromatic top notes, Oro 750‰ doesn't waste any time in unleashing its delectable floral core.

The lavender imparts a charming aromatic lift to the florals and the notes progress in complete unison. As soon as the vanilla makes its entrance, a dash of coumarin duly follows with its hay-like properties. During this time, an intense sweetness still persists, but the floral reign is short-lived and gradually consumed by the unyielding aromatic accords. Any evidence of frankincense is minuscule.

Possessing a rich woody foundation, the patchouli soon takes over the reins, but only until the sandalwood and musk are ready to reveal themselves. And as the woody-musk base flourishes, one can't help but sense a little disappointment in its humdrum finale, which has been done so many times before.

With an interesting first half, the composition lets itself down when the vanilla becomes more discernible. If the latter half has been just as compelling, it might have been rated higher.

Projection is acceptable and longevity is approximately eight hours.

Argento 925‰ by Omnia Profumo

*****

Year: 2010

Notes: grapefruit, lemon, tangerine, ozonic notes, coriander, nutmeg, galbanum, geranium, frankincense, Russian leather, birch, cedar, teak, patchouli, vetiver, sandalwood

Comment: Argento 925‰ is part of the Metalli Collection

Argento 925‰ awakens the senses with a piquant citrus blast, prefacing a combination of geranium, galbanum and an ozonic accord. Within minutes, the nutmeg and frankincense surface, leading the composition towards familiar woody territory.

As the citruses finally vanish, traces of what went on before intermingle with the emerging woods, with minimal evidence of any leather. The composite woods are dry, peppery and resinous, but unexpectedly sweet. Resting on a soft sandalwood base, the final stages are ambery and creamy, though rather generic, with a fruity nuance that's almost peach-like.

Although one wouldn't deem its performance as similar to that of a designer fragrance, it still smells like a poor man's niche release. However, it's an interesting creation, which utilises the aquatic aspect effectively well and is relatively easy to wear.

Lasting at least ten hours, its sillage is also very good.

Peridoto by Omnia Profumo

*****

Year: 2008

Notes: bergamot, grapefruit, lemon, freesia, rose, jasmine, vanilla, patchouli, ambergris

Comment: Peridoto is part of the Pietre Collection

Commencing with a rich cascade of vibrant citrus notes, and accompanied by an astringent body odour aroma, Peridoto surprisingly develops into a very nondescript and airy woody-floral affair. Sorry but the smell of freshly laundered clothes, emitting from one's skin as an olfactory statement, simply doesn't appeal.

Personally, using twice the normal amount of floral fabric conditioner would yield the same results, while saving some money in the process.

Cristallo di Rocca by Omnia Profumo

*****

Year: 2008

Notes: citrus, almond, geranium, rose, lily of the valley, ylang-ylang, iris, clove, rum, vanilla, sandalwood

Comment: Cristallo di Rocca is part of the Pietre Collection

With an almond top note, which smells like burnt electrical coils and melting plastic, Cristallo di Rocca doesn't start off very promising and nor does it improve over time. Harbouring a floral bouquet at the heart, which mainly highlights the iris and lily of the valley, the clove and rum are both flat and uneventful. With regards to the base, the vanilla and sandalwood coupling is competent, slightly resinous and not too sweet.

In contrast to Olivier Durbano's olfactory interpretation of this stone, it's sweeter, more amateurishly composed and less convincing in its execution. With discreet sillage and acceptable lasting power, it's more of a budget niche fragrance masquerading as something of greater importance.

Unfortunately, with other so-called niche houses like Brecourt, Ego Facto, Ramón Molvízar and Linari around to keep Omnia Profumo company, one currently perceives the niche perfume industry as a bloated entity that's in desperate need of some pruning. A wealth of artistic ideas and greater consumer choice are both welcome, but not when the products are either subpar or unquestionably trite.

Opale by Omnia Profumo

*****

Year: 2009

Notes: seaweed, African geranium, hawthorn, lilac, jasmine, Madagascan vanilla, tonka bean, patchouli, cedar, white musk

Comment: Opale is part of the Pietre Collection

Opale is Omnia Profumo's 'obligatory' aquatic interpretation (and why it wasn't christened Acquamarina instead is anyone's guess) but it's the same old Italian niche marine fragrance, with a pronounced seaweed accord and a metallic (or even stale rain water) nuance.

With an aromatic inclination, during the early stages (stemming from the minty geranium and almost fennel-like hawthorn), the florals are neither here nor there and the woody-oriental base takes some time to arrive. When it does, however, it's noticeably musky and tame.

Offering subtle projection and moderate longevity, it fails to provide anything worthy of one's attention and could even be seen as an inferior (and cheaper) alternative to Sigilli's Ea. Thankfully, one was spared exposure to any peppery components but such gratitude is unable to eradicate any sense of terminal lethargy.

Acquamarina by Omnia Profumo

*****

Year: 2008

Notes: lemon, pineapple, peach, hyacinth, ylang-ylang, jasmine, amber, sandalwood, musk

Comment: Acquamarina is part of the Pietre Collection

Contrary to the name, Acquamarina is far removed from any popular preconception of an aquatic (so much that one would dismiss the name as completely misleading). Instead, it's quite a dense fruity-floral with a prominent woody ambery foundation.

Opening with a stark fruity burst, the juicy peach and pineapple reveal themselves from the outset. But there's a slightly dirty and cheap aroma that mars its development (and is somewhat unbecoming), as the florals meld with the syrupy fruit accords.

With an underlying balsamic presence, its crude progression persists until one has nearly lost all patience with it. Eventually, one's perseverance is duly rewarded, as a creamy amber and sandalwood drydown makes itself known. With a fruitiness still evident, this tenacious composition redeems itself but only marginally.

Even though such an olfactory concept isn't at all new, if the fruity-floral component had been executed better, it might have been appreciated more. Yet the issue surrounding its ill-suited name still bewilders and confounds in equal measure.

Onice by Omnia Profumo

*****

Year: 2008

Notes: citrus, pineapple, peach, mint, nutmeg, aniseed, liquorice, lavender, geranium, rose, hyacinth, ylang-ylang, jasmine, amber, cedar, sandalwood, musk

Comment: Onice is part of the Pietre Collection

After experiencing three complete duds by Omnia Profumo, one wasn't really expecting much from Onice. But, upon testing it, one has been left very pleasantly surprised.

The first thing one encounters is a distinctive celery aroma. Although celery isn't listed as a note, the accord is unequivocal. Soon, some aniseed and liquorice emerge to further confound. However, it's only when lavender is detected that one soon realises the composition is tipping its hat off to the classic aromatic fougères from the '70s and '80s. Now, that's not to say it smells old-school or dated but such retro influences are clearly worn on its sleeve.

The emergence of sweet fruits, along with some nutmeg, yields an extra dimension. There's also a re-occurring mintiness running throughout the majority of the composition's development, with the geranium providing further depth to the aromatic proceedings. Eventually, all that remains is a radiant and demure fruity-floral, with a mild powdery base of sandalwood, cedar, amber and musk. Also, the transition throughout each stage is both multi-faceted and smoothly interwoven.

Onice bears some similarities with L'etre Aime Homme by Divine, especially via a mutual celery accord. But, in saying that, Onice is fruitier and more eccentric. The overall effect is somewhat ethereal, with noticeable sillage during the first hour. Unfortunately, its longevity isn't as substantial as originally hoped (roughly four hours) but it still manages to single-handedly redeem Omnia Profumo's somewhat tattered reputation.

Madera by Omnia Profumo

*****

Year: 2009

Notes: coconut, peach blossom, wild flowers, tobacco flower, caramel, Madagascan vanilla, white musk

Comment: Madera is part of the Pietre Collection

Being a lover of vanilla fragrances, Madera has proven to be Omnia Profumo's biggest disappointment (not that most of the other creations from this house are that much better).

As always, a waxiness resides but this time it's even more apparent – so much that it smells like a vanilla and caramel candle. Also, not being an avid coconut fan, there was the hope that this accord would be more in the background. Unfortunately, it isn't. With an eventual drydown that smells no better than a cheap vanilla-scented air freshener, the whole experience isn't in the slightest bit impressive.

Personally, there are much better vanilla interpretations out there, with Madera possibly being one of the worst ever encountered.

Granato by Omnia Profumo

*****

Year: 2008

Notes: orange, white thyme, nutmeg, cinnamon, cardamom, aniseed, geranium, hawthorn, lilac, rose, jasmine, gardenia, vanilla, patchouli, vetiver, cedar, sandalwood, white musks

Comment: Granato is part of the Pietre Collection

Omnia Profumo belongs to the Italian jewellery brand Omnia Gioielli, with most of their fragrance offerings being inspired by various semi-precious stones. With Olivier Durbano venturing down a similar olfactory path as well, one wonders which niche house started the ball rolling first. However, if nothing else, they undoubtedly share a second common attribute: their tendency to produce largely lacklustre creations.

Granato is probably the least original release from this house. It's extremely reminiscent of a more floral version of Yves Saint Laurent's Opium pour Homme and possesses, once again, a subtle cheap-smelling wax accord. Although both convey the smell of root beer, it's Granato that comes closest to smelling like you have just spilt such a beverage on your shirt.

It may seem like a complex composition but its severe lack of originality leaves very little to be desired.

Ambra by Omnia Profumo

*****

Year: 2008

Notes: bergamot, orange, lavender, geranium, frankincense, labdanum, amber, patchouli, vanilla, opopanax

Comment: Ambra is part of the Pietre Collection

Unfortunately, not much amber is particularly discernible in Ambra...

Yes, it's a very sweet concoction but it comes across as nothing more than a dense and cheap cola beverage, with a discreet wax accord. If there's any amber in the composition, either it's of the synthetic variety or it was oppressed by the rest of the notes.

The pricing of Ambra is quite reasonable but, coupled with the actual composition, it's severely doubtful that it's a high-calibre fragrance modestly priced. Just another niche bandwagon jumper, it seems...