Oliver Peoples by Byredo

*****

Year: 2015

Notes: Californian lemon, juniper berry, orris, patchouli, immortelle, warm sand accord, musk

Comment: Oliver Peoples is a limited edition release

As a collaborative effort with the American luxury eyewear brand of the same name, Oliver Peoples is merely a mishmash of olfactory ideas from previous offerings (with Baudelaire and Bullion quickly coming to mind).

It also possesses a noticeable patchouli and musk base, somewhat reminiscent of the late-drydown of Thierry Mugler's Angel (but not as synthetic). All in all, it's a pleasant yet inoffensive fragrance, which fails to make an authentic statement on this 'artistic' collaboration (apart from acting as a shameless publicity exercise).

Sillage is moderate but its longevity is reasonably good.

Mojave Ghost by Byredo

*****

Year: 2014

Notes: Jamaican naseberry, ambrette seed, violet, magnolia, amber, cedar, sandalwood, Chantilly musk

Once again, Byredo reminds the world just how mediocre its so-called niche creations are.

Inspired by the Ghost Flower, which grows in the Mojave, Sonoran and Colorado Deserts, Mojave Ghost initially lives up to Byredo's description of an arid desert – with a sparse, minimal and slightly fruity opening, alongside wispy violet nuances.

But the fruitiness continues to intensify, becoming progressively greyer and more synthetic over time. After the first hour, it smells like a cheap-smelling knock-off designer scent, and continues that way until the very end of its pathetically worthless lifespan.

Preforming very close to this skin, it's a complete abomination and leaves one puzzled as to why this house is still in business (let alone considered high-quality niche).

Flowerhead by Byredo

*****

Year: 2014

Notes: Sicilian lemon, lingonberry, angelica seed, green notes, rose, wild jasmine sambac, tuberose, suede, ambergris

Based on the olfactory idea of an Indian bride, at a traditional Indian wedding, Flowerhead is simply awful.

After one's nose has been bludgeoned by a horrid overdose of angelica seed, it quickly develops into a dreaded tuberose and jasmine bomb. The remaining notes are largely nondescript, as the brash white florals continue to pulsate in a very linear and slightly green fashion.

Actually, Flowerhead isn't that much different from Viktor & Rolf's Flowerbomb (Flowerhead, Flowerbomb...) and that's its biggest problem. With great staying power, it's nothing more than a shameless rip-off of a very popular female designer fragrance, completely devoid of any floral, spicy or resinous exoticism.

1996 by Byredo

*****

Year: 2013

Notes: black pepper, juniper berry, violet, orris, leather, patchouli, black amber, vanilla

Inspired by the photograph 'Kirsten 1996', by Dutch photographers Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin, according to Byredo, 1996 is "an olfactory snapshot, not only of the image but of our emotional response to it". While one questions if this Swedish niche house has blatantly 'borrowed' Olfactive Studio's unique concept, the end result is actually far better than anything that this French niche house has produced so far.

1996 is a sweet and warm oriental, with gentle dusty swirls of leather, orris, vanilla and black amber. Soon after the subtle peppery and gin-like juniper preface, there's a subdued raspiness throughout the composition, which one would attribute to both the leather and black amber. However, the vital presence of a creamy vanilla accord prevents the proceedings from becoming too withered.

Exuding powdery and rooty nuances, in pastel mauve hues, the violet and orris seamlessly converge to uphold the integral floral aspect. And as the black amber later becomes more pronounced, the patchouli surfaces from the shadows but continues to diffuse at a diplomatic rate – confirming an earthy darkness residing beneath the seductively creamy, floral and resinous haze.

Providing excellent persistence and moderate sillage, 1996 loosely bases itself on Profumum's Soavissima but adds further structural complexity, while replacing the heliotrope with some vanilla. Although its performance on the skin can be a little turbulent, it's still well-executed and puts most Byredo releases to shame.

With that said, it's an encouraging step in the right direction for this Swedish niche house.

Inflorescence by Byredo

*****

Year: 2013

Notes: green leaves, lily of the valley, pink freesia, rose, magnolia, jasmine

Inflorescence is described as "a freshly cut bouquet of flowers that has been supercharged".

Commencing with an intensely fresh and green bouquet of florals, it abruptly settles down to reveal herbaceous subtleties. With damp and slightly pink floral flourishes, it's transparent in its general demeanour and exhibits a honeyed sweetness towards the drydown.

However, it smells more synthetic as it further develops and lacks a substantial base. Providing minimal sillage and surprisingly respectable longevity, it isn't particularly satisfying or groundbreaking.

Black Saffron by Byredo

*****

Year: 2012

Notes: pomelo, juniper berry, Kashmiri saffron, black violet, leather, Cristal Rose champagne, raspberry, Haitian vetiver, blond woods

Two years after Accord Oud, Byredo decides to release a rehash, under the guise of Black Saffron.

With saffron having always been integral to his Indian upbringing [fingers down the throat moment for the use of such cheap sentimentality], this accord is buried beneath a syrupy and derivative fruity-floral onslaught. The top notes are largely nondescript, as a smoky leatheriness resides at its very core. Furthermore, the base is rather tenuous, with 'blond woods' turning out to be the powdery woody-musk aroma chemical cashmeran.

Prompting inevitable comparisons between a Byredo scent and Tom Ford's Tuscan Leather yet again, its below average lasting power and sillage only makes matters worse. Sadly, the overall impression one is left with is far from any respectable notion of memorable.

What a complete waste of Kashmiri saffron...

Bullion by Byredo

*****

Year: 2012

Notes: black plum, pink pepper, magnolia, osmanthus, leather, dark woods, sandalwood, sensual musks

Launched as a limited edition, specifically for the Middle Eastern market [kerching!], Bullion is mainly a buttery woody affair, with discreet floral undertones.

Both the plum and leather are restrained, segueing seamlessly with the osmanthus. As for the presence of any dark woods, it's more or less a cedar accord (in the stylistic vein of Comme des Garçons), while the base hints at the possible presence of some castoreum.

Overall, it's well-balanced and surprisingly more rewarding to wear than most of Byredo's releases. Sadly, it still suffers from minimal projection and so-so persistence on the skin.

Mister Marvelous by Byredo

*****

Year: 2011

Notes: mandarin leaf, green lavender, neroli, bamboo, white cedar, black amber

Inspired by Dutch hair stylist Christiaan Houtenbos, Mister Marvelous is a masculine woody-citrus outing that's not particularly original.

With tart citrus green top notes, the lavender and bamboo both reside on a synthetic woody-amber base, which then proceeds to overpower the other components. If only the rest of the composition was given more breathing space, it might have been evaluated more favourably.

With underwhelming sillage and moderate longevity, the price tag is scandalous rather than marvellous.

Seven Veils by Byredo

*****

Year: 2011

Notes: pimento berry, carrot, Laurier rose, tiger orchid, Tahitian vanilla flower, glycine, vanilla, Indian sandalwood

Influenced by the biblical tale of Salome's Dance of the Seven Veils, Seven Veils is a spicy-oriental built around vanilla flower, vanilla and sandalwood.

Exuding peppery rose overtones, one gets the distinct impression that it's already been done before. With hints of ginger, there's also a mild cola beverage aroma that unwantedly intensifies over time. As for the drydown, the vanilla is sheer and the sandalwood is disappointingly anaemic.

As always with this house, diffusion is moderate but its tenacity is below average.

Oud Immortel by Byredo

*****

Year: 2010

Notes: limoncello, cardamom, frankincense, papyrus, tobacco leaf, patchouli, Brazilian rosewood, moss

Starting out with a medicinal note of limoncello (an Italian lemon liqueur), the cardamom, papyrus and patchouli quickly join the fray. As the composition develops an inky smokiness, the woods and tobacco add more weight to the composition, vaguely imparting a hay-like aroma.

Bearing some similarities to M/Mink, it's a screechy aromatic woody mess. In comparison to Accord Oud, Oud Immortel's performance is considerably feeble. With no discernible evidence of any oud whatsoever, just like its sibling, the name is also a complete misnomer.

It's bad enough when a niche fragrance house jumps onto the oud bandwagon, but to then have the audacity to release a so-called oud creation containing no agarwood (natural or synthetic) is nothing short of a joke.

Accord Oud by Byredo

*****

Year: 2010

Notes: rum, blackberry, black plum, cinnamon, saffron, clary sage, leather, patchouli, powdery musks

So, where's the oud accord? Well, it's nowhere in the vicinity, as it's an oud scent only by name...

Accord Oud is really a restrained fruity-leather concoction, with a serving of rum and spices, in a similar vein to Tom Ford's Tuscan Leather. The black plum and leather dominate the composition but fail to offer anything new, while the clary sage desperately tries to inject lewd olfactory innuendos.

With discreet projection, its staying power is reasonable but still insubstantial.

La Tulipe by Byredo

*****

Year: 2010

Notes: rhubarb, freesia, cyclamen, tulip, vetiver, blond woods

La Tulipe is a modestly clean and linear rendition of tulip, which strives to come across as creamy but ends up smelling like cheap scented body lotion.

Like everything else from this house, one has concluded that Byredo is simply a Frédéric Malle impersonator – attempting to capitalise on the popularity of this French niche house, by way of a similar conceptual packaging design (as of recently, Byredo's flat black caps are now semioval, probably to quell such accusations).

Both staying power and projection are moderate.

M/Mink by Byredo

*****

Year: 2010

Notes: adoxal, frankincense, patchouli, clover honey, amber

Created in partnership with M/M (Paris), M/Mink is the most intriguing effort by Byredo to date.

Conveying the concept of ink in olfactory form, it starts out with a strong opening of the potent aroma chemical adoxal. With a cascade of frankincense, green notes, honey and resinous amber, the composition emits a raw, detached and unorthodox musky aroma throughout most of its lifespan.

Personally, one feels that this was a successful collaboration, and should greatly appeal to fans of the offerings by Comme des Garçons. With discreet sillage and moderate longevity, it's the only regular Byredo release that one would recommend without too much reservation.

Palmero by Byredo

*****

Year: 2010

Notes: Sicilian bergamot, bitter orange, rose, ambrette flower, fresh musks, skin musks

Palermo is a classic example of a citrus fragrance poorly executed.

Commencing with a short-lived citrus offensive, the citrus accords are crudely integrated, resulting in a piercing body odour aroma. The rose soon becomes noticeable but could have been strategically added to distract from the true origin of those metallic screeches: a synthetic woody-musk cocktail base.

Possessing abysmal staying power, it's one bitter orange offering that would be best avoided.

Baudelaire by Byredo

*****

Year: 2009

Notes: black pepper, juniper berry, caraway, frankincense, hyacinth, leather, papyrus, patchouli, black amber

Baudelaire is supposedly a dark masculine concoction, which is devoid of any filthy or sleazy associations that the name desperately attempts to imply.

Opening with some juniper, it develops into a smoky incense outing, with leather, aromatic embellishments and a woody ambery drydown. The pepper adds a dusty vibe to the composition but, overall, it smells too generic in its underwhelming demeanour.

Rendering moderate sillage, disappointing lasting power and an expensive price tag, there's nothing particularly noteworthy about it.

Bal d'Afrique by Byredo

*****

Year: 2009

Notes: bergamot, lemon, bucchu, neroli, violet, African marigold, cyclamen, jasmine, vetiver, Moroccan cedar, black amber, musk

Described as a "mix of the Parisian avant-gardism and African culture", Bal d'Afrique is just a shameless clone of Hermès' Hermèssence Vétiver Tonka, with some florals thrown in for good measure.

With a sweet lemon custard opening, the vetiver is detectable beneath the light mélange of florals. Although the cedar is serene, the sweet amber-musk base dilutes the composition, resulting in a low-key presence. Offering below average tenacity and respectable sillage, it's both mundane and frightfully unoriginal.

Sunday Cologne / Fantastic Man by Byredo

*****

Year: 2009

Notes: bergamot, cardamom, star anise, lavender, frankincense, geranium, patchouli, vetiver, moss

Based on a collaboration with the Dutch men's fashion magazine, Fantastic Man, and originally christened with the same name, Sunday Cologne unashamedly starts off as a clone of Hermès' Terre d'Hermès but with a more intense citrus accord. After some time, lavender and frankincense facets are offset against a generic masculine woody foundation, yet the Terre d'Hermès comparison still continues to hold true...

With low projection and reasonable lasting power, it's still offensively overpriced for what it is.

Blanche by Byredo

*****

Year: 2009

Notes: aldehydes, pink pepper, violet, neroli, white rose, peony, sandalwood, blond woods, musk

Created around the perception of the colour white, Blanche is both a staid and synthetic clean scent that would make Procter & Gamble proud. It smells like a generic cleaning detergent, with a cheap and nondescript soapy aura. Set alongside artificial fruity nuances, a metallic chemical sheen emits for most of its duration.

Staying close to the skin with average lasting power, it should have been renamed Bland.

Pulp by Byredo

*****

Year: 2008

Notes: bergamot, blackcurrant, red apple, fig, cardamom, tiaré, peach flower, praline, cedar

During the first 15-20 minutes, Pulp is superb – a succulent, rich and juicy fruit cocktail that smells natural and fresh. The sweetness is just right, and both the bergamot and blackcurrant are full-bodied, dense and vivid. And although it smells unquestionably feminine, it can still be enjoyed by any open-minded man.

With such a wonderful opening, one anticipated the quality to be maintained. Sadly, this doesn't happen...

Now, maybe the opening is merely a deceptive ploy, but the drydown smells like a composite of rotting passion fruit and some synthetic-smelling pot-pourri (possibly due to a clash between the peach flower and praline). But its development never gets back on track and simply stagnates from that point onwards.

One has to admit that it's the first time one has been seduced by a fragrance, only to be later repelled by it. It's also quite long-lasting with more than adequate diffusion.

An extra star awarded solely for the opening.

Gypsy Water by Byredo

*****

Year: 2008

Notes: bergamot, lemon, pepper, juniper berry, pine needles, frankincense, orris, vanilla, amber, sandalwood

Gypsy Water is a soft and ethereal skin scent, constructed around vanilla, amber and sandalwood.

While that's by no means a crime, the rapid disappearance of the interesting top notes definitely is. The chords of juniper, pine, pepper and frankincense sound promising but immediately evaporate after application, leaving a humdrum oriental base that lingers for a while.

Of course, it's creamy and alluring but is only a fraction of the engaging fragrance that it could have been. As is always the case with this house, projection is poor and longevity is less than four hours.