Ambrorient by Estéban

*****
Year: 2008

Notes: bergamot, mandarin, cistus, heliotrope, opopanax, benzoin, vanilla

Comment: Ambrorient is part of Les Orientaux Collection

Ambrorient presents an exciting proposition for vanilla and oriental fragrance lovers, as an almost unadulterated combination of heliotrope, benzoin, opopanax and vanilla.

Initially, one couldn't help but discern certain parallels between the notes in Ambrorient and the listed notes for Guerlain's Shalimar. However, one is rather pleasantly surprised to discover that, while they do share a similar olfactory theme, Ambrorient smells better balanced and more modern.

Shalimar has always been problematic on one's skin, regardless of the concentration (and even the Parfum de Toilette didn't help to resolve this issue). With Ambrorient, this is never the case throughout its development. Interestingly enough, the mandarin and bergamot doesn't materialise straight away. Instead, during this fleeting period, one is greeted by both a creamy and ambery pairing of cistus and heliotrope.

While the benzoin and vanilla provide a substantial foil for the composition, the opopanax remains restrained all the way through. That, coupled with the prominence of the heliotrope, is quite possibly the key to Ambrorient's success (and may also partly explain why Shalimar has always been too temperamental for one to fall in love with). For the remainder of its duration, one is surrounded by a soft and highly delectable aura of vanilla-infused balsamic sweetness.

With excellent longevity of at least 12 hours, the only reservation is its comparative lack of sillage after the first three hours or so. If there was more projection during its initial six hours, before transforming into a skin scent, it would have been utter perfection. As it stands, it's slightly flawed but still a marvellous creation.

To those struggling to ‘get' Shalimar, waste no more time and seek out Ambrorient instead.


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