Ambre Précieux Ultime by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

*****

Year: 2014

Notes: myrtle, nutmeg, lavender, labdanum, frankincense, vanilla, coumarin, Tolu balsam, Peru balsam, ambergris, ambroxan

Comment: Ambre Précieux Ultime is a limited edition release

Limited to 1,000 bottles, Ambre Précieux Ultime is supposedly the Eau de Parfum version of the highly revered Ambre Précieux. But while Ambre Précieux's DNA is vaguely present, this revised rendition of amber miserably fails to improve on the original. In fact, it does the exact opposite.

Allegedly retaining the same ingredients, but utilising slightly different ratios, some frankincense has also been added to the mix. While one doesn't have a problem with that, it's the addition of ambroxan (and possibly other aroma chemicals) that results in the composition smelling woefully artificial from start to finish. Yes, it's darker, dryer and more dense, but it isn't as bewitching (or natural-smelling) as the original – it's practically a deluge of synthetic accords, providing very little breathing space.

As a result, one sees it as nothing more than a cynical cash grab. Being structurally poor, lacking in longevity and periodically smelling crude, its very existence is an insult to Jean-François Laporte's legacy.

Lovely bottle, though.

Ambre Doré by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

*****

Year: 2012

Notes: clary sage, coriander, saffron, geranium, amber, myrrh, styrax, oud, vetiver, sandalwood, ambergris

Comment: Ambre Doré is part of Les Accords Mystères Collection

Originally released as Soir d'Orient, in 2006, as a limited edition both in the Middle East and Paris (where only 2,000 bottles were produced), chances of Ambre Doré being the same formulation are relatively slim. However, compared to Ambre Précieux, Ambre Doré is a more animalic, leathery and woodier affair.

Revealing saffron and oud accents, the opening is less spicy with a distinctly aromatic demeanour, courtesy of the clary sage, coriander and geranium. The oud is slightly animalic but doesn't go out of its way to overwhelm the amber. Instead, it tames any sweetness, while complimenting the vetiver, sandalwood and ambergris base. With the later emergence of myrrh and styrax, the mid notes yield a leathery twist.

As it further evolves, gasoline facets can be discerned amongst the barnyard woodiness. However, even though Ambre Doré's amber accord becomes more obvious, especially towards the drydown, it lacks the resinous and balsamic heights of Ambre Précieux. In addition, the ambergris is much less striking, with the emphasis being placed more on the faecal woody foundation. As a result, one finds Ambre Doré less captivating and lacking in the sensuality of its predecessor.

Overall, Ambre Doré is a respectable flanker, and would appeal more to those who would have preferred Ambre Précieux to be less sweet and more masculine. However, with decent staying power and moderate sillage, one still favours the original.

Ambre Précieux by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

*****

Year: 1988

Notes: myrtle, nutmeg, lavender, labdanum, vanilla, coumarin, Tolu balsam, Peru balsam, ambergris

Comment: Ambre Précieux is part of Les Parfums du Levant Collection / Eau de Toilette review

Composed by the late Jean-François Laporte, Ambre Précieux is a marvellous amber creation that improves on his earlier amber offering, L'Artisan's L'Eau d'Ambre.

Sweet, powdery, resinous, spicy, creamy, warm, comforting, sensual, intoxicating and mellow are just some of the many adjectives that adequately sum up this masterpiece. With salty ambergris nuances, Ambre Précieux is an exemplary representation of this genre.

Opening with a fleeting myrtle note, the lavender and spices are evident but remain restrained throughout. With a touch of vanilla in the background, the composition mainly focuses on the labdanum, coumarin, balsams and ambergris. It's neither cloying nor too sweet, and envelops the wearer with a deliciously soft and alluring aura of balsamic resins.

In comparison to some of the other popular niche amber releases, Histoires de Parfums' Ambre 114 is sweeter and smoother, L'Artisan's L'Eau d'Ambre Extrême is very similar but slightly richer, Serge Lutens' Ambre Sultan is more herbaceous and austere, Montale's Blue Amber has greater presence, while Profumi del Forte's Ambra Mediterranea is darker, woodier and more intense.

Surprisingly, Ambre Précieux lasts the entire day, which is exceptional for an Eau de Toilette. However, since it wears very close to the skin, one often wishes that it had more projection (hence the rating). Maybe this is due to its reformulation, as one has never sampled the vintage juice, but one can't be entirely sure.

Regardless of this, it's undoubtedly one of the best quality niche ambers around, and its influence on the niche ambers that soon followed should never be underestimated.