Verbena Absoluta by Acqua di Stresa

*****

Year: 2013

Notes: citrus, lemon verbena, geranium, neroli, freesia, sandalwood, white musk

Similar to Heeley's Verveine d'Eugene, Verbena Absoluta is a minimalist and soapy verbena effort.

The citrus, lemon verbena and geranium convey a verdant balminess, with a modest citrus infusion. Although it isn't as bracing as expected, it's still pleasant. The florals aren't noticeably sweet and they serve to underscore the composition's green aromatic premise. Sadly, its evolution is uninspiring and the woody-musk base is both apologetic and forgettable.

As always with this house, longevity and sillage are both underwhelming.

Mentha Citrata by Acqua di Stresa

*****

Year: 2012

Notes: bergamot, absinthe, mint, violet leaf, camellia, cedar, white musk

Mentha Citrata is based on a herb of the same name, also known as bergamot mint, lemon mint, orange mint, lime mint, horsemint and water mint. In addition to the listed notes, one also catches the possible inclusion of some verbena. The absinth reveals itself shortly afterwards but the composition rapidly fades into oblivion.

Overall, it's both a timid and forgettable citrus-aromatic, lasting less than three hours.

Calycanthus Brumae by Acqua di Stresa

*****

Year: 2012

Notes: tiger balm, black pepper, ginger, calycanthus, honeysuckle, nutmeg, frankincense

Opening with a pepper and ginger coupling, a mentholated camphor chord shines through almost immediately. The calycanthus is very apparent but exudes an unmistakable plastic nuance, with the honeysuckle relegated to the background. Emitting a sombre aura, with minimal sweetness, waves of spicy frankincense intensify as its drydown ensues.

Calycanthus Brumae has respectable lasting power and modest sillage.

Camellia Soliflor by Acqua di Stresa

*****

Year: 2012

Notes: black pepper, clove, camellia, jasmine, white woods, white musk

Camellia Soliflor is a well-composed but simple creation, mainly consisting of camellia, possibly a hint of rose, and some jasmine. With soft pink hues, it's delicately sweet, warm and reserved – even the spices are timid in their general demeanour. During the drydown, a faint musky woodiness is also discernible.

Sadly, with regards to longevity, it's disappointing to say the least. Personally, one would only recommend it to those who appreciate the minimalist creations from Heeley.

Osmanthus Fragrans by Acqua di Stresa

*****

Year: 2012

Notes: osmanthus, peach blossom, peppermint, white tea, cedar, white musk

Osmanthus Fragrans commences with a jammy floral sweetness that's extremely persuasive, before promptly fading to reveal a rather verdant tea accord. The transition from fruity sweet to fresh is admirable but, like most of the offerings from this house, longevity is a deeply concerning issue.

With virtually no projection, it comes across more as an Eau de Toilette than an Eau de Parfum. The quality is there but it lacks sufficient substance.