Spanish Cedar by Czech & Speake

*****

Year: 2014

Notes: bergamot, blackberry, plum, clove, galbanum, cedar, guaiac wood, sandalwood

"With my new fragrance the cedar is not from Spain but my motives are linked to Spain. Memories of boyhood holidays in Menorca, of sandy coves surrounded by sun bleached pine and cedar trees that would produce an unforgettable resinous smell. This fragrance to me is the memory of these days..." (sic)

With a juicy fruity opening, the clove is rather subtle and one has trouble detecting much galbanum. In fact, it's a woody-fruity fragrance that reveals the guaiac wood and cedar early in its development. While there's nothing wrong with that, the only really interesting thing about Spanish Cedar is the fermented plum aspect.

It isn't particularly smoky and its soft woody manner is akin to Czech Speake's previous effort, Vetiver Vert. As for being the first Eau de Parfum release from this house, one is quite disappointed by its reserved performance on the skin. To be perfectly frank, it mostly smells like the late-drydown of so many uninspired niche offerings, with a derivative woody-oriental base.

For such a milestone, with regards to the higher concentration, one expected so much more.

Vetiver Vert by Czech & Speake

*****

Year: 2011

Notes: bergamot, mandarin, laurel, galbanum, Haitian vetiver, sandalwood

Opening with tart mandarin and bergamot top notes, the laurel soon makes its presence known. The galbanum is woefully discreet and, from this point onwards, the composition remains static for quite some time. However, the citruses are still surprisingly evident, while the vetiver (which is more grassy) remains lacklustre.

The use of another variety of vetiver might have been a better choice than the predictably safe Haitian vetiver, as its olfactory attributes seem to have been overpowered by the other notes. When the sandalwood emerges, the galbanum has already increased its presence but only marginally. At this stage, traces of vetiver are still faintly discernible but are soon upstaged by a sweet woody-balsamic drydown.

With regards to this house's output, Vetiver Vert is a worthy addition and may well end up becoming a personal favourite. It possesses decent longevity and moderate projection, and would make an ideal candidate for humid summer days. With its balsamic woody-green charms, it still gets a hesitant thumbs-up, even though it seems like Czech & Speake has taken a leaf out of Le Labo's book.

Definitely not recommended for die-hard vetiver fans.

Frankincense & Myrrh by Czech & Speake

*****

Year: 1984

Notes: Amalfi lemon, bitter orange, basil, clary sage, pimento leaf, lavender, chamomile, myrrh, frankincense, Virginian cedar, sandalwood

Based on what the name implies, one found Frankincense & Myrrh to be severely lacking.

It's of more a herbaceous-aromatic, with a bright citrus opening prefacing the composition's herbaceous nature. As for the frankincense and myrrh, they are present but solely in supporting roles – providing nothing more than a dry and austere quality to the proceedings.

With a light sandalwood drydown, it's largely a fleeting soapy affair that's both insubstantial and rather dull.

No.88 by Czech & Speake

*****

Year: 1981

Notes: bergamot, cassie, geranium, rose otto, frangipani, black locust, vetiver, sandalwood

After almost unanimous praise, one is left feeling both bewildered and disappointed by this soapy patchouli and rose composition (with Nag Champa aspirations). The opening accords of bergamot and geranium are amazing but it soon goes rapidly downhill from there...

While No.88 possesses a classic barbershop aura, it unfortunately lacks sufficient longevity and sillage. Also, there's something quintessentially English (or rather old-fashioned) about it that doesn't appeal. Maybe it's the mannered and pompous Victorian undercurrents but, then again, it could simply be because it's too restrained and flaccid for one's tastes.

Personally, one much prefers something stronger, more contemporary and with a significant sensual edge, and Montale's Black Aoud has managed to satisfy all of these requirements more than satisfactorily. They may not be exactly the same but they definitely work on a similar premise, with Black Aoud rendering a degree of lush romanticism that No.88 can only dream of.

Oxford & Cambridge by Czech & Speake

*****

Year: 1994

Notes: bergamot, peppermint, rosemary, English lavender, French lavender, oakmoss, sandalwood

Oxford & Cambridge is a stark lavender fragrance, with the emphasis on its herbaceous and aromatic aspects. The lavender is crisp and medicinal, with its aromatic properties bolstered up by the addition of peppermint and rosemary. With an oakmoss and sandalwood base, the overall effect is both stimulating and refreshing.

However, although it's one of the more impressive lavender scents one has encountered, there are still a couple of reservations about the composition. Firstly, while linear, its longevity and sillage are both really poor after the first hour. Secondly, while it exudes a charming barbershop aura, there's also a stiff upper-class or Eton-esque vibe about it that one finds deeply unsettling.

With that said, it's technically impressive but, socially, out of time.

Cuba by Czech & Speake

*****

Year: 2002

Notes: bergamot, lime, rum, peppermint, bay leaf, rose, clove, tonka bean, tobacco, vetiver, frankincense, Virginian cedar

Cuba is probably the finest release by Czech & Speake, and is a superior alternative to Aramis' Havana (which smells relatively harsh and synthetic). It's a complex bay rum fragrance, with an invigorating peppermint accord and a woody-aromatic drydown. With unique olfactory attributes, such as a Mojito booziness and a seemingly genuine tobacco aroma, it's warm, spicy and classy in a very masculine way.

One has never tried the vintage formulation and is thus unable to comment on any significant differences in the composition. However, not being an avid fan of masculine tobacco scents, one wouldn't personally deem Cuba as full bottle-worthy but it certainly deserves the praise it often receives.

Neroli by Czech & Speake

*****

Year: 1981

Notes: bitter orange, orange, neroli, orange blossom, ylang-ylang

Being one of the better offerings from this house, Neroli is a natural and simple citrus-floral. With a slightly brief indolic presence, the composition is well-blended possessing a clarity and sweetness that's enchanting. While substantial, this largely hesperidic creation remains ethereal and light with linear progression.

Longevity is approximately two hours but, for what it is, one would deem it as somewhat acceptable.

Mimosa by Czech & Speake

*****

Year: 1986

Notes: geranium, ylang-ylang, jasmine, Egyptian mimosa, clove, benzoin

Mimosa remains true to this house's old-fashioned identity but it smells both soapy and musty in an extremely bad way. The florals stay indistinct throughout, obscured by an overbearing indolic accord that dominates. As a result, the whole experience is both unsatisfying and rather repugnant.

With above average longevity and sillage, it's probably the worst offering by Czech & Speake.

Rose by Czech & Speake

*****

Year: 1988

Notes: Bourbon geranium, rose, ylang-ylang, mimosa, patchouli

Rose is an old-fashioned rose fragrance, which should appeal to anyone after a more Victorian take on such an olfactory theme. Although it's not very complex, it's definitely a composition of quality that possesses sufficient depth from both the crisp greenness of the geranium and its patchouli base. While bright, airy and clean, this uplifting rose soliflore verges slightly on the feminine side and has linear progression.

Like most other creations from this house, it has moderate longevity and sillage.

Dark Rose by Czech & Speake

*****

Year: 2003

Notes: saffron, Bulgarian rose, oud, patchouli, styrax, sandalwood, white musk

In a nutshell, Dark Rose is a more approachable alternative to the rose-oud offerings by Montale.

The closest Montale release that one can compare Dark Rose to would be Black Aoud (but based on a fraction of its normal concentration). With the typical opening of medicinal oud and rose, there's also the addition of an underlying jammy fruitiness (almost berry-like) that adds an extra dimension.

Apart from that, it's not exactly a darker or richer equivalent of No.88, even though their style and execution are both quite similar. Furthermore, since its original release, both the quality and quantity of oud interpretations (in Western perfumery) have increased to such an extent (courtesy of Montale, Amouage, and numerous designer and niche oud copycats) that it now pales in comparison, smelling comparatively bland and anaemic.

While it may still appeal to some, there are a myriad of superior alternatives available, provided you're prepared to make the effort to discover them.

Citrus Paradisi by Czech & Speake

*****

Year: 2000

Notes: Californian grapefruit, rosemary, coriander, clary sage, pepper, patchouli, oakmoss, civet, ambergris

With a lactonic grapefruit opening, Citrus Paradisi is a relatively unsuccessful citrus-aromatic. Some noticeable issues include the dearth of its herbaceous facets and a very weak base. However, its fundamental flaw lies in the contrast between its citrus sweetness and an overpowering civet accord. Such a fusion of conflicting notes was severely ill-judged, to say the least, with the resulting aroma smelling distinctively faecal.

Personally, there are far superior grapefruit fragrances available that are much better balanced and composed, possess greater longevity, and are a lot more pleasurable to wear. For a more herbaceous and informal take on this olfactory theme, Diptyque's Oyédo would make a very worthwhile choice, while Parfums de Nicolaï's Balle de Match remains the benchmark for grapefruit sophistication.