Lotus Rose by Les Parfums de Rosine

*****

Year: 2012

Notes: bergamot, citrus, mandarin, coriander, neroli, lotus, Maiden's Blush rose, sweet pea, jasmine, iris, amber, Okoumé wood, sandalwood, musk

Another year, another dainty rose offering by Les Parfums de Rosine, accompanied by kaleidoscopic visions of fluttering butterflies and My Little Ponies gallivanting in fragrant green meadows...

With an opening that verges extremely close to fougère territory, without actually being a fougère, Lotus Rose's rich mélange of citrus fruits is very inviting. Sadly, a marine-like lotus accord arrives uninvited, about 15 minutes later. As the floral heart fleshes things out, a coy honeyed sweetness is discerned but the laundry fresh aspect of the composition continues to intensify.

Imparting a nondescript woody-musk drydown, one would award three stars for the impressive opening but only two for its general execution. Both sillage and longevity are quite good.

Glam Rose by Les Parfums de Rosine

*****

Year: 2011

Notes: ambrette seed, pepper, blackcurrant leaf, violet, Variegata di Bologna rose, jasmine, lychee, raspberry, buckskin, cedar, musk

Glam Rose is a fruity-floral, with a timid leathery component. Primarily a fruity composition of rose and violet, it concentrates on the Variegata di Bologna rose (a Bourbon rose variant, with the petals exhibiting various white, pink and purple blotches).

The violet aromatic properties of the rose merge effortlessly with the violet, against a sweet fruity-musk canvas. There are occasional verdant glimmers, from the blackcurrant leaf, but these are both mellow and fleeting. With just a hint of jasmine, the serving of ambrette seed is initially heavy-handed but soon settles, allowing the other components to breathe.

The raspberry and lychee compensate for the diminishing influence of the florals, as the buckskin is refined yet suede-like. With a subdued woody-musk foundation, the drydown is noticeably smoother and more unified than the somewhat imbalanced opening.

Providing moderate sillage and average staying power, it comes recommended to those who love Parma violets and violet-prominent scents.

Clair Matin by Les Parfums de Rosine

*****

Year: 2011

Notes: Italian lemon, blackcurrant bud, raspberry leaf, violet, Turkish rose, peony, chamomile, apricot, amber, sandalwood, musk

Comment: Clair Matin is a limited edition release

Clair Matin is a fruity-floral Eau Faîche that's a re-interpretation (or a fresher summer version) of Roseberry.

Inspired by the salmon-pink climbing rose (which is the first rose bush that the Les Parfums de Rosine founder, Marie-Hélène, planted in her garden), it places much more emphasis on the lemon and chamomile. Absent are the conflicting aldehydes, wine lees and vetiver, and replaced with some apricot, peony and various musks.

While it doesn't last particularly long, it's an inoffensive offering that's worth sampling but certainly not spending any money on. For completists only.

Zéphir de Rose by Les Parfums de Rosine

*****

Year: 2008

Notes: basil, aniseed, rose, Bulgarian rose, Damascus rose, ambrette seed

Zéphir de Rose is a rather fresh dewy rose scent, somewhere along the same lines as Montale's Ta'if Rose and Serge Lutens' Sa Majesté la Rose but is the lightest of the three.

Upon the opening, the composition accentuates a green astringency. As it calms down, the aniseed eventually overwhelms with a distinctive spicy sweetness, which serves to smooth out the rough edges. Unfortunately, by this stage, it smells very much like a typical floral-musk offering by Histoires de Parfums.

It's quite a pity because, if the drydown was as interesting as the opening, it would have been rated higher.

Une Folie de Rose by Les Parfums de Rosine

*****

Year: 2004

Notes: bergamot, coriander, tea rose, Bulgarian rose, Turkish rose, ylang-ylang, jasmine, iris, benzoin, patchouli, vetiver, oakmoss, sandalwood

Une Folie de Rose is a spicy rose chypré, with a citrus and aldehydic opening highly reminiscent of numerous classic aldehydic-rose scents. But the aldehydes never completely overwhelm, permitting the iris-infused dusty florals to vividly present themselves. Also, the tea rose remains prominent, keeping the proceedings both three-dimensional and buoyant.

While it remains understated during its entire lifespan, it's also one of the more sophisticated offerings from this house. But, in saying that, if it was more tenacious and possessed a greater presence, it probably would have been awarded at least an extra star.

Une Rose au Bord de la Mer by Les Parfums de Rosine

*****

Year: 2010

Notes: Italian bergamot, bitter orange, mandarin, neroli, marine notes, rose, jasmine, cistus, immortelle, amber, ambrette seed, white musk

Unlike Écume de Rose, Une Rose au Bord de la Mer is a sweeter and warmer rendition of a marine-rose scent. With a fresh peppery quality, this Eau Fraîche (which is a lower concentration than an Eau de Cologne) is very sheer and could easily be mistaken for a generic and wishy-washy designer aquatic.

To purchase it would be a complete waste of money.

Rosissimo by Les Parfums de Rosine

*****

Year: 2010

Notes: pink grapefruit, Italian lemon, bitter orange, rosemary, verbena, rose, freesia, jasmine, cistus, leather, fir balsam, vetiver, tree moss, precious woods

Being their third release for men, Rosissimo could have been classified as a floral-fougère had some lavender been included in the composition. Instead, it's a very tart and bright citrus-floral aromatic. By Les Parfums de Rosine's self-imposed restrictions, it's also their closest release to a bona fide citrus fragrance.

The interplay of the citrus, rosemary and verbena is both mouthwatering and voluptuous. As for the florals, they are extremely subdued – even the rose is barely discernible. The surfacing of the leather, cistus and fir balsam suggest a slightly more masculine nature, as a soft woody drydown ensues.

Within less than one hour, it remains pretty much a gentle skin scent for the remainder of its duration. But still, it's certainly a major improvement over their last two masculine creations, Rose d'Homme and Twill Rose, and that in itself is a noteworthy achievement.

Secrets de Rose by Les Parfums de Rosine

*****

Year: 2009

Notes: bitter orange, plum, liquorice, saffron, cumin seed, rose, magnolia, ylang-ylang, jasmine, labdanum, amber, Himalayan oakmoss, sandalwood, musk

Secrets de Rose is yet a further case of one of the more impressive releases from this house initially beguiling, before proceeding to frustrate in equal measure.

Is Les Parfums de Rosine afraid of creating bold and tenacious fragrances? Or are whispering and fragile rose scents an essential aspect of their olfactory concept or identity? Once again, within roughly two to three hours, Secrets de Rose transforms into a skin scent that's barely discernible. Whether or not it's deliberate, the ultra-diplomatic demeanour of their offerings are a total deal-breaker.

With that said, it's a spicy (and rather dark) chypré, with a sweet and juicy plum accord attributing a nefarious influence over the innocent florals. The bitter orange provides just the right balance to the composition, with the liquorice lurking in the background. The emergence of both the amber and labdanum fuses with the remnants of the plum, generating a mysterious and carnal aroma with a subdued leathery hint. By the inevitable drydown, a deeply sensual oakmoss, sandalwood and musk base caresses the skin.

Sadly, none of this is enough to prevent it from performing disappointingly on the skin, like virtually all the other Rosines. This is very unfortunate, as there are at least two or three Les Parfums de Rosine creations that one would have seriously considered purchasing, had the situation been much different.

Rosa Flamenca by Les Parfums de Rosine

*****

Year: 2004

Notes: green orange peel, petitgrain, neroli, orange blossom, rose, Rose de Mai, jasmine, fig wood, benzoin, sandalwood, white musk

One was really looking forward to testing Rosa Flamenca, primarily because of its very intriguing name – the expectations of something dramatic, colourful and fiery were very difficult to set aside. However, it doesn't really reach the passionate Andalusian heights that one was expecting.

Most of the essential elements are there – a zesty citrus opening, prominent orange blossom and neroli, and a helping of spices. The rose is warm, sweet and inviting, with its richness further highlighted by the juxtaposition of a jasmine accord. The fig wood provides a subtle green aspect to the composition and, in turn, enhances the authenticity of the rose.

With a soft and sensual sandalwood, benzoin and musk base, one is not left duly hot and flustered but instead beguiled by the breathtakingly beautiful Andalusian gardens, bathed in the golden glow of a scorching afternoon sun, prompting one that a self-indulgent siesta is soon in the offing...

Although Rosa Andalusia would have been a more appropriate name, as certain associations with flamenco are not fully represented (such as the blood red spicy fruitiness of sangria, and the mild leathery aroma of flamenco dancing shoes), Rosa Flamenca remains one of Les Parfums de Rosine's more impressive creations.

As always with this house, sillage is moderate and longevity is about average.

Rose Praline by Les Parfums de Rosine

*****

Year: 2008

Notes: Italian bergamot, cardamom, Lapsang Souchong, geranium, rose, chocolate powder, cocoa, amber, sandalwood, white musk

There aren't many scents by Les Parfums de Rosine that are particularly noteworthy, but Rose Praline is one of the few exceptions.

Like most of their numerous offerings, it's very mild-mannered and remains a skin scent for most of its duration. However, what's really impressive is that it's a floral-gourmand that's devoid of the clichéd vanilla, tonka bean or benzoin base. With a deliciously bright bergamot and rose opening, the accords in the spotlight are mainly the cocoa and Lapsang Souchong tea – seamlessly executed, with a slight powdery undertone.

The base notes of amber, sandalwood and musk are too faint to be fully enjoyed but they are detectable if one pays extra attention. Personally, the entire composition is (once again) too demure to be considered full bottle-worthy. However, those seeking a floral-gourmand that isn't too cloying should investigate this one.

Rose Kashmirie by Les Parfums de Rosine

*****

Year: 2007

Notes: Sicilian bergamot, coriander, saffron, Bulgarian rose, Damascus rose, Chinese peony, myrrh, nagarmotha, vetiver, vanilla, benzoin, sandalwood, ambergris

Based on the listed notes, Rose Kashmirie is too muddled to detect many of them. It's an extremely timid rose offering, complemented by some saffron and powder. The overall effect is quite underwhelming, with a synthetic tinge running throughout the composition.

It's by no means a complete disaster but it's very much the olfactory equivalent to putting on a clean cashmere jumper, which emits lingering traces of fabric softener, than anything velvety or exotic.

As always, both lasting power and projection are nothing to write home about.

Rose d'Homme by Les Parfums de Rosine

*****

Year: 2005

Notes: bergamot, citrus, mandarin, herbs, lavender, rose, jasmine, vanilla, patchouli, vetiver, leather, woods

Even though Rose d'Homme is marketed towards men, this soft and powdery hybrid of rose, leather and woods is quite similar in spirit to Yves Saint Laurent's ode to barbershops, Rive Gauche pour Homme.

While well-blended, it's far too smooth and fails to take any risks (thus lacking sufficient edge to prevent it from smelling mediocre). Also, instead of being a bold, heady and long-lasting masculine rose fragrance (especially for an Eau de Parfum), it dies down to almost nothing within half-an-hour.

Personally, there are far better woody-rose scents available, both in possession of more substance and greater lasting power, such as the Montale rose-ouds, Serge Lutens' Sa Majesté La Rose, Czech & Speake's No.88, both Diptyque's L'Ombre dans L'Eau and Opôné, and even L'Artisan's Voleur de Roses.

While Rose d'Homme remains a plausible release, there's a wealth of superior alternatives you can spend your hard-earned cash on.

Un Zeste de Rose by Les Parfums de Rosine

*****

Year: 2002

Notes: bergamot, lemon, orange peel, dried fruits, rose, jasmine, green tea, yerba mate, ambergris, musk

Un Zeste de Rose, as the name suggests, combines roses with citrus notes. However, what should have been a sparkling and effervescent citrus-rose fragrance is hampered by the presence of green tea and maté accords, rapidly eliminating whatever edge or potential the citrus promised during the opening.

While not being an avid tea scent fan, one finds it rather difficult to appreciate but understands that it may have its admirers. Also, its longevity is extremely disappointing, to say the least.

Rose d'Été by Les Parfums de Rosine

*****

Year: 1998

Notes: bergamot, green apple, melon, galbanum, lime tree flowers, lotus, yellow rose, mimosa, ambrette seed, musk

Rose d'Été is yet another rose and apple composition, like Rose de Feu, but the apple is much better-behaved. Personally, apple scents are still pretty much a perfume taboo...

The most interesting aspect of this concoction is the inclusion of yellow roses. In a way, one can imagine how the coupling of this note with apple and melon might have sounded like a good idea in theory. But in reality, it's just a lacklustre green fruity-floral, with a nasty pungent earthiness lurking in the background. Fortunately, an intriguing violet accord, towards the drydown, provides a brief moment of relief.

It's simply too weak, light, soft, sheer... or whatever adjective you care to describe a fragrance, lacking in both depth and substance.

Poussière de Rose by Les Parfums de Rosine

*****

Year: 2001

Notes: plum, apricot, tea, rose, ylang-ylang, cinnamon, frankincense, cedar, amber, benzoin, opopanax, sandalwood, musk

Apricot and tea are notes that one usually finds a challenge to either tame on the skin or appreciate (along with peach and coconut). But this is more due to skin chemistry than prejudicial personal tastes.

With Poussière de Rose, one is met with a plump and fruity opening that's quite agreeable, if nothing else. The emergence of a somewhat metallic rose accord is very rapid, while some frankincense and smoky tea linger in the background. The drydown is a slightly high-pitched woody-musk base, with some benzoin and amber.

Unfortunately, there's something very thin and hollow about the composition, that prevents one from completely appreciating it for what it is. Although it's mostly a skin scent, its longevity is somewhat reasonable.

La Rose de Rosine by Les Parfums de Rosine

*****

Year: 1991

Notes: violet from Tourrettes-sur-Loup, marigold, rose, rose attars (from Turkey, Bulgaria and Grasse), ylang-ylang, jasmine, iris, benzoin, tonka bean, Peru balsam

La Rose de Rosine is a lavish rose soliflore, co-starring an intense and candied violet accord. Overall, it smells fresh rather than musty, exudes elegance but is never old-fashioned, and comes across as somewhat simple but is yet in possession of adequate substance and complexity.

With subtle sillage and moderate longevity, this soft and powdery composition is one of the best creations from this house.

Diabolo Rose by Les Parfums de Rosine

*****

Year: 2007

Notes: Sicilian bergamot, peppermint, tomato leaf, yerba mate, lily of the valley, rose, peony, amber, sandalwood, musk

Diabolo Rose is a fresh, moist and luscious green rose scent. The combination of peppermint and rose is both refreshing and unique, with lush herbaceous aromas weaving in and out of the two main accords.

One can also discern distinctive olfactory similarities with L'Ombre dans L'Eau by Diptyque (especially with the interplay of the tomato leaf, citrus and rose) but Diablo Rose isn't as astringent as Diptyque's offering – with the help of the peppermint, it's significantly softer by comparison.

Although its longevity and sillage could have been much better, Diabolo Rose is still worth investigating.

Roseberry by Les Parfums de Rosine

*****

Year: 1997

Notes: aldehydes, wine lees, blackberry, blackcurrant bud, green notes, raspberry leaf, blue chamomile, wild rose, Turkish rose, iris, vetiver, sandalwood

Roseberry is monumentally dreadful and is one of the worst offerings from this house so far.

It's a horribly synthetic creation that smells like cheap air freshener. Even if this wasn't the case, it's certainly a generic release from a niche house. Fruity-florals have been executed far better than this and there's definitely no shortage of them, should you be looking for that type of fragrance.

With moderate sillage, its longevity is just as excruciatingly poor as the composition itself.

Écume de Rose by Les Parfums de Rosine

*****

Year: 2002

Notes: blackcurrant leaf, artemisia, sea lily, Burnet rose, rose attar, rose, immortelle, vetiver, ambergris, white musk

Écume de Rose is an aquatic-floral scent, with faint rose accords consisting of burnet roses (a species usually found in coastal areas, as well as on limestone pavements and near sand dunes – a significant and overlooked detail that defies the composition's marine theme). While there's nothing really compelling about it, the salty or ozonic accord has a tendency to smell somewhat unpleasant on the skin intermittently.

With minimum projection appalling lasting power, you'll be extremely lucky if it lasts even close to one hour on your skin.

La Rose Légère by Les Parfums de Rosine

*****

Year: 2009

Notes: Italian bergamot, blackcurrant, wild strawberry, neroli, violet, lily of the valley, Moroccan rose, ylang-ylang, jasmine, amber, sandalwood, white musk

La Rose Légère is another fruity-floral but is more subtle and candied than, say, Roseberry. It's also one of the softest offerings from this house (being an Eau Fraîche) that comes across like a run-of-the-mill budget-priced rose scent that has turned.

By the way, La Rose Légère is the summer version of La Rose de Rosine.