Scent for Thought: Slumberhouse

Showing posts with label Slumberhouse. Show all posts

New Sibet by Slumberhouse

*****

Year: 2016

Notes: mint, ash, carnation, iris, cistus, leather, moss, goat fur

New Sibet marks a rather surprising departure for Slumberhouse. Instead of the now predictable Serge Lutens homages, Josh Lobb has attempted to forge a new stylistic path.

The best thing about Josh's latest effort is the opening – a chalky, ashy and parched leather aroma, resting on a bed of moss and animalic musk. With a chypré aura, New Sibet calls to mind the old-fashioned floral-chypré premise of Bogue Profumo's MAAI (but crisper, with a more restrained floral heart), combined with the charred campfire woods of Tauer Perfumes' Lonestar Memories. Exhibiting hay or dried grass facets, the iris and cistus combined add a soft powdery sweetness to the proceedings. As for the animalic musk, its integration is both enchanting and convincing.

Based on the above, this dark fusion of leather, ashy woods, desiccated florals, moss and feral musk should have been a winner... and it was... until about an hour into its evolution. Up until this point, the only noticeable issue was that the composition seemed too light, especially for a parfum extrait. But, when New Sibet finally revealed its true weakness, any reservations about tenacity rapidly became a moot point.

By the mid notes, everything falls apart and it smells like an insipid glob of unidentifiable notes, which literally amount to nothing of any real significance. By the third hour, whatever's left on the skin is hardly noticeable at all. Such a structural disintegration is shocking, and one hopes that Josh hasn't adopted the same top heavy tactic currently prevalent in the fragrance industry (in other words, extremely inviting top notes but a bland and insubstantial base).

Barely being perceptible after four hours, had it continued the way it started out, one would have probably been singing its praises. But, alas, this isn't the case. Thus, one awards four stars for the first hour and two stars for what transpires afterwards. But at least Josh is trying a different approach.

Disclaimer: Since some Slumberhouse releases are always being 'improved', and with various formulations of the same fragrance in existence, this review is based on the sample(s) received. Due to the lack of information about these reformulations, one is unable to confirm the actual formulation(s) that has/have been reviewed. As a result, your experience of this fragrance may greatly differ. Understandably, it's all very confusing.

Kiste by Slumberhouse

*****

Year: 2015

Notes: bourbon, peach, elderberry, scotch heather, henna, tea, honeysuckle, honey, four varieties of infused pipe tobacco, patchouli, tonka bean

After three years in development, and with more than 200 revisions, Kiste is simply just another Slumberhouse effort in the mould of Sova, Baque and Rume, with some aromatic notes thrown in for good measure.

Still Josh Lobb's Serge Lutens and Yves Saint Laurent's Opium pour Homme fixations remain...

*yawns*

Once again, one discerns a muddled mélange of stewed fruits, tobacco, honey and an obligatory booziness...

*yawns*

Including four varieties of pipe tobacco, which have all been specially infused with fruits, molasses, whisky, rum and roots, one senses too much familiarity... coursing throughout... this trite and derivative...

Zzzzzzzzzzzz...

Sådanne by Slumberhouse

*****

Year: 2014

Notes: strawberry, rose, resins, balsams, ambergris

Sådanne is a fruity-floral scent, which is brighter and less dense than what Slumberhouse is renowned for. But while Sådanne possesses a noticeable berry-like aroma, similar to that of Zahd, it's actually stylistically closer to Josh Lobb's earlier floral offering, Eki.

The opening is ultra-feminine, with a tart and decidedly fruity bubblegum aspect. With an imposing sangria-like facet, the dark fruity element smells more like a combination of grape, raspberry and orange. The rose isn't too far behind and could be responsible for some of the brazen fruitiness, such as the raspberry effect. As a result, olfactory parallels between Sådanne and Tauer Perfumes' Une Rose Vermeille are drawn at this point.

However, what becomes fairly obvious is just how synthetic it is. Emitting a cherry-flavoured cough syrup aura, there's also a generous serving of Iso E Super, which becomes more evident during the mid notes. With subtle hints of resins, balsams and pine, the ambergris base gently emits an animalic tone, which becomes stronger as time passes. And as it enters the final stage, all that remains are soft and fruity musk traces, accompanied by earthy and leathery undertones.

Originally, one was going to award Sådanne one star. But, while one still finds it too shrill, it does possess the odd virtue (such as the ambergris). And although some have touted this release as some significant departure, it actually isn't as it's not the first time that Josh has ventured down this olfactory path.

Projection is moderate but longevity is excellent, lasting at least eight hours.

Zahd by Slumberhouse

*****

Year: 2013

Notes: cranberry, cherry, plum, wine ether, fir, champaca, pink lotus, gromwell, cocoa, benzoin, trisamber, oak, frankincense, Mitti Attar, Tolu balsam, Mysore sandalwood

Comment: Zahd is a limited edition release

After two years and around 80 prototypes, Zahd is the latest Slumberhouse parfum extrait, which is based on a "fairly rare" cranberry absolute. Possessing a deep ruby red colour and a 30% concentration, one was naturally curious about all the fever pitch hype that accompanied it.

As to be expected, it smells syrupy, boozy, fruity, resinous, dense and pungent. On the opening, it emanates a sweet liqueur aroma, alongside a prominent dark cocoa note (that's briefly supplemented by a somewhat salty nuance). The ripe fruitiness initially verges very close to bubblegum territory, possibly due to the champaca, but the cocoa soon diffuses the situation. With a jammy composite of cranberry, plum and cherry, its tone changes as it approaches the heart.

The brash fruity booziness is gradually tempered by a burnt wood accord. It's noticeably scratchy and, together with the oak and sandalwood, forms the woody aspect of the composition. According to Slumberhouse founder, Josh Lobb, Zahd is about 85% natural. Among the synthetics used is trisamber, which possesses dark and dry woody-amber properties. Therefore, one would attribute the burnt woody element to this aroma chemical.

Over time, the parched woodiness intensifies, with gentle whiffs of frankincense occasionally greeting the nose. By the drydown, the fruity cordial slowly surrenders its dominance to the trisamber, accompanied by an earthy yet creamy underscoring of sandalwood and Mitti Attar. Faint traces of the fermented fruits continue to persist, but the woody ambery smokiness of the trisamber continues to reign supreme. It's only several hours later that fading glimmers of trisamber, sandalwood and Tolu balsam are all that remain.

While credit is given for originality, especially with the cranberry, Zahd isn't without its flaws. The bitter facets of the cranberry are drowned out by a sea of sweetness, the choice of florals does more harm than good, the oak is particularly subdued, and the artificial woody-amber element is both clichéd and irritating. Maybe, sometime in the near future, one of Josh's newer offerings will be just as satisfying as Vikt... but Zahd isn't it.

Projection is below average and tenacity is in excess of six hours.

* A special thanks goes out to Lyn for making this review possible.

Mare by Slumberhouse

*****

Year: 2013

Notes: watermelon, raspberry, blackcurrant, petrichor, thorns, silver fir, black pepper, tobacco leaf, orris, milk, Bourbon vanilla, vetiver, Scottish pine, Atlas Cedar, moss

Comment: Parfum extrait review

"The emerald aquifer. A kingdom of leaves, vines and sweet, wet vegetation."

Originally released in 2010, as an Eau de Parfum, Mare is an intriguing creation. However, one wouldn't classify it as a vegetal or verdant creation by any means, especially in the earthy sense.

Although it starts out fervently green, it's more in the sense of absinthe combined with ripe fruits. The top notes are sweet yet tart, with the watermelon (and possibly some apple) being particularly discernible. There's also a spicy tobacco accent, which gently melds with the lush, sweet and somewhat mentholated opening.

But, while there's a vague balsamic flair, one is unable to notice any earthy or leafy green aspects at any point. Instead, there's a watery and mineral-like aura that, when combined with the fruits and absinthe, establishes an aroma that's redolent of fermented grapes. Upon further investigation, the petrichor component seems to be the catalyst for this olfactory effect.

Petrichor is the scent of rain on dry earth. Originating from the oil secretion of certain plants during dry periods, this oil is absorbed into the surrounding soil and rocks. It's only during rainfall when the oil is released into the air – producing a distinctive smell that's herbaceous or vegetal (ozone is also present, if there's lightning). With balmy mineral qualities, both its aroma and flavour can be found in wines, particularly in younger whites.

Bearing this in mind, especially as a creamy heart takes hold, Mare begins to resemble Pear + Olive (sans the greasy olive oil note). The orris is there but castrated, and the vetiver is quite mild in its delivery. As for the rest of the woods, they are relatively subdued throughout the drydown, as traces of the top notes continue to faintly exhibit their former 'aquiferous' glory.

Going by the quoted description, above, it doesn't actually succeed in achieving its goal. However, as they both share certain olfactory parallels, one does consider Mare to be much better than Pear + Olive. While the green, vegetal and woody premise is sorely lacking, one never really had any high expectations in the first place.

As with most of the Slumberhouse extraits, it's not a powerhouse and has average staying power.

* A special thanks goes out to Lyn for making this review possible.

Sova by Slumberhouse

*****

Year: 2012

Notes: hops, broom, cassie, sweet clover, hay, tabanon, cocoa, Tahitian vanilla, tonka bean, amber, poplar bud, black locust, beeswax, castoreum

Shamelessly ‘borrowing' Andy Tauer's idea of part-filling 50ml bottles with glass beads, to reduce the volume to 30ml, Sova is largely a variation of Baque. One also had the good fortune of acquiring two samples, within less than a year of each other... but they smell remarkably different.

One's sample from 2012 is warm, balsamic and soft – with sweet and fruity tea-like undertones from the hops, and a honeyed dried fruits aspect accentuated by the broom. Both of these accords also possess herbaceous and spicy properties, with the broom fusing with the warm aroma from the hay. As for any booziness, it's more comforting than brash, conjuring images of an old Spanish country barn converted into a sherry distillery.

Some dry tobacco consistently weaves in and out of the composition, courtesy of the aroma chemical tabanon (or tobacco cyclohexenone). Meanwhile, there's a spicy and maple-syrup-like presence throughout. This stage also smells quite similar to labdanum but is actually the poplar bud – imparting a balsamic, resinous and spicy aura, which may explain why gingerbread is often cited as being part of the composition.

As it settles down, a dark and bitter cocoa note surfaces, slightly tempered by ambery-vanillic reinforcements. The honeyed sweetness still remains but a sudden shift has taken place – from its warm, spicy, resinous and boozy beginnings to a dark woody-gourmand drydown, with a subdued animalic edge from both the castoreum and beeswax. Once again, projection isn't stellar and longevity is over six hours.

With regards to the sample from 2013, it's sharper, boozier, and more rugged and resinous (rather than smooth and balsamic). In fact, it almost smells like a dupe for Norma Kamali's Incense, but with a fruitcake sweetness substituting the copal. All the other aspects are reasonably intact, but it's darker in its general demeanour and is neither comforting nor unique. Both longevity and sillage are also similar to that of the 2012 sample.

And that's what's so self-indulgent and unprofessional about this house. Why should there be acute differences in a relatively new fragrance, within 12-18 months of its release? Why should it be acceptable for a niche house to regularly reformulate its creations, and expect the public to willingly pay for rough drafts of an idea? And why should buying a bottle be like the lottery, when not much is known about when these reformulations occurred? But as Josh once stated, if he ensured product consistency, he would "quickly become bored".

Based on all the above, investing in any fragrances from Slumberhouse is a real crapshoot.

* The final rating takes both samples into account.

Pear + Olive by Slumberhouse

*****

Year: 2012

Notes: white cognac, grape, pear, calamus, Bulgarian geranium, Roman chamomile, olive, massoia, mahogany

Comment: Eau de Parfum review

One has to admit that the concept of pear saddled with olive is an interesting concept. However, the end result isn't what one was expecting.

Pear + Olive is more akin to a sweet pear and fig concoction, with a wine nuance at the beginning. The pear is dominant, syrupy and reminiscent of the tinned variety but, in its favour, smells extremely natural. And although there's supposedly no fig in the composition, one would attribute the creamy and almost coconut aroma to the presence of the massoia.

With tender green and hay-like tones from the calamus, chamomile and geranium, it soon mellows out to allow more attention to the olive accord, which reveals a somewhat sebaceous and aromatic flair. There's also a very soft ambery-vanilla aspect to the translucent woody base, which never comes to the fore.

Compared to other creations from this house, it's not as commanding on the skin but, at the same time, could be considered more suitable for spring or summer. Alas, one still associates its general aroma with shampoos, liquid hand soaps and body creams, especially as the soapiness of the drydown increases with vigour.

With longevity of approximately six hours, its transition is seamless but it's still lacking something – possibly a stronger base of some sort. But, despite its flaws, it's still a so-so offering that fails to juxtapose the sweet and savoury aspects of the star notes convincingly.

*****

Year: 2013

Notes: cognac, pear, calamus, Bulgarian geranium, Roman chamomile, olive, massoia, mahogany

Comment: Parfum extrait review

While certain improvements have been made, the extrait version of Pear + Olive still isn't quite there.

It's certainly less boozy than before, and the pear is less prominent and sweet. Furthermore, the olive still feels like an accord that Josh has been unable to fully utilise, without it coming across as greasy. While the creamy fig aspect continues to hold true, one can sense a slightly stronger green aromatic presence throughout, which is a good thing initially.

However, for a parfum extrait, one finds it lethargic on the skin – so much that it begins to smell both linear and banal by the midway mark. Also, its longevity isn't that much better, which comes as a great surprise.

A wasted opportunity.

Norne by Slumberhouse

*****

Year: 2012

Notes: allspice, fern, hemlock, pine needles, fir balsam, frankincense, lichen, moss

Comment: Eau de Parfum review

Consisting of 100% pure forest absolutes and nothing more, one has to applaud Josh Lobb for composing such an original and bold creation. With an increasing lack of satisfying coniferous-green fragrances being released, the announcement of Norne was most certainly welcome.

Contrary to popular belief, the inspiration behind the composition actually comes from Josh Lobb's appreciation of black metal (a Scandinavian sub-genre of extreme heavy metal music), paired with the sprawling woodlands of this part of the world. Interestingly enough, the name itself confirms a very strong Scandinavian influence, as Norne is also the name of an oil field, located in the Norwegian Sea.

Norne largely consists of an impressive trio of evergreen coniferous accords (fir, pine and hemlock) set against some spices, frankincense and moss. Rich in coniferous resins, the juice is a blackish-green, with a near oily consistency – aspects that not only complement Josh's personal sources of inspiration but also its petroleum-associated name.

The opening is rich, sweet, dark and resinous, with an extremely profound coniferous aroma. Both the allspice and frankincense remain low-key but are still identifiable, while dank and slightly bitter nuances regularly weave throughout the proceedings. However, things start to go awry during the sappy mid notes...

Although it starts out rather strong, it soon lowers its volume considerably. Also, it gradually becomes sweeter and lighter in its general tone. This sweetness (probably due to the fir balsam) soon overwhelms – leaving one wishing that it had developed into something more virile, with a more striking forest undergrowth slant to it. By the drydown, not even the lichen and moss are enough to salvage it from a sweet resinous demise.

Like the odd release from this house, Norne has genuine potential but there are some pressing issues. It's not as complex as it could have been, the frankincense isn't prominent enough, there are hardly any dirty or smoky facets evident, and it's more syrupy sweet than a coniferous woody-green.

With moderate projection and below average lasting power, it sadly promises more than it actually delivers. But one still respects Norne for its initially rich coniferous introduction.

*****

Year: 2013

Notes: allspice, fern, hemlock, pine needles, fir balsam, frankincense, lichen, moss

Comment: Parfum extrait review

Not only is the Norne extrait severely lacking in sillage, its performance is also lifeless on the skin.

Most of the accords are still present but Josh has had the bright idea of injecting a stronger moss base, while either toning down or overwhelming the coniferous aspects. While the parfum extrait is slightly less sweet, it's also murkier, not blended particularly well and fails to address any of the Eau de Parfum's shortcomings.

While Josh seems intent on toning down the reformulated extraits, they are noticeably inferior as a result.

Baque by Slumberhouse

*****

Year: 2012

Notes: apricot, honey, straw, artemisia, tobacco leaf, davana, vanilla, parchment, cedar, ambergris

Baque is a rich and creamy tobacco scent that's, stylistically, very Lutens-esque (no surprise there). Imparting a stewed apricot accord, it opens slightly boozy, with some straw adding extra warmth to the tobacco. There's also an occasional ashy (but not smoky) aspect as well.

As it gravitates towards the heart, the davana completely seeps in and reinforces the general syrupiness of the composition. When these components finally meld with the vanilla, a creamy amber effect takes hold. Emitting suede-like nuances, the cedar gradually injects a gritty and masculine tone, during the drydown, with a demure sweet creaminess still evident.

Personally, it's one of the more acceptable offerings from this house. However, the balsamic cedar base slightly cheapens things, so much that one wishes a more complementary woody accord was employed instead. Also, it occasionally veers too close to Rume territory, during the final stages of the drydown. As for its performance, it remains close to the skin, after the initial blast, with reasonable longevity of around five hours or so.

With a little tweaking, Baque has the potential to be among the best of Slumberhouse's oeuvre, which includes the earlier formulations of Sova, Vikt and Norne.

Rume by Slumberhouse

*****

Year: 2011

Notes: mulled fruits, bay leaf, allspice, cola, hazelnut, praline, myrrh, labdanum, hay, clay

Since its inception, in 2008, Slumberhouse's inconsistencies have been baffling. The frequent discontinuations and exclusive limited editions, the numerous batch variations, the constant bottle design changes, and the lack of information for potential buyers are some of the objections one has about this niche house.

One can only assume that its founder, Josh Lobb, lacks not only the will to establish a long-term artistic vision for his company, but to also ensure that there's a reasonable level of consistency with every batch of the same release. Thinking about it now, there's no other fragrance house that has been so annoying in these areas. And although Josh has clearly stated a disinterest in uniformity, it does throw into question his consideration for the general public (and just printing a batch code, on all bottles and samples, would have been sufficient).

As for the offerings themselves, they often fail to live up to the glowing reports. Take Rume – a syrupy fragrance with lashings of rum, spices, cola, myrrh and labdanum. Once again, there's a blatant Serge Lutens influence, with Arabie being the closest point of comparison. But Rume lacks both the complexity and density of Arabie – smelling like davana essential oil one moment and Yves Saint Laurent's Opium pour Homme the next.

Although it's probably more natural than its sources of inspiration, Rume is still very unoriginal. With moderate projection and good longevity, it's another unimpressive misstep that only heightens one's personal grievances with the Slumberhouse philosophy.

Sana by Slumberhouse

*****

Year: 2011

Notes: raspberry leaf, thorns, fir balsam, magnolia, marigold, honey, suede, sweet birch

Slumberhouse is a US independent niche house, based on Portland, Oregon, where most of its fragrances are constructed around syrupy, resinous, balsamic and fruity accords.

Most of the compositions are so dense and full-bodied, one is left to conclude that many of them aspire to the style of Christopher Sheldrake's work for Serge Lutens (pre-2007). But, in contrast, the Slumberhouse offerings lack any finesse – often generating crass, ill-conceived and under-developed results. Based on this, one does wonder what all the fuss is about.

With a lot of the praise strangely coming from the US and Canada, where many of its natives tend to complain about 'strong' fragrances and other people overspraying, is this merely a case of drumming up support for 'one of their own'? It's quite an intriguing thought but one digresses.

As for Sana, it practically comes across as a dupe for Serge Lutens' Chypre Rouge, but less smoky and more honey sweet. One would say it's both the raspberry leaf and fir balsam that primarily contribute towards such a comparison. But it's not as dark as some have purported it to be (and there's a huge difference between 'dark' and 'dense'). With a birch tar base, it soon mellows out with a leathery sweetness.

With moderate sillage and longevity, and based on one's experience with this house, one can confidently state the following: don't believe the hype.

Kere by Slumberhouse

*****

Year: 2011

Notes: aldehydes, apricot, plum, liquorice, orange honeysuckle, rose, hay, white chocolate, caramel, styrax, Mysore sandalwood

Comment: Kere is a limited edition release

After the short-lived fruity aldehyde opening subsides, Kere is very much an exercise in creating an immortelle fragrance... without the actual presence of an immortelle accord.

With some fruity undertones persisting, it's more about the liquorice, hay, honeysuckle, chocolate and caramel re-creating an immortelle (or maple syrup) aroma, while forsaking the 'controversial' cumin or curry aspects. It also possesses a sweet warmth, with spicy nuances, that's briefly reminiscent of stewed apples and cinnamon (with the sandalwood being partly responsible for this). During the drydown, the styrax and sandalwood help to convey a sharp, leathery and slightly charred finale.

Unfortunately, it stays very close to the skin but has excellent lasting power. One also feels that using Mysore sandalwood was a scandalous waste, as New Caledonian sandalwood would have been far more suitable (due to its complementary berry-like undertones).

It's an interesting creation but the execution lets it down. However, it does have some potential.

Eki by Slumberhouse

*****

Year: 2011

Notes: magnolia, jasmine, natural damascenone

Comment: Eki is a limited edition release

If one asked other fragrance lovers what the word 'perfumista' means to them, the popular reply would probably be something like, "A lover of all things fragrant". Personally, one considers that a true perfumista should also be able to distinguish between genuine quality and third-rate swill, while not being easily swayed by deceptive hyperbole. Unfortunately, not every 'perfumista' is prepared to adopt this way of thinking.

Eki is supposed to be an ethereal floral but starts out smelling musty, grey and horribly artificial. All that one is able to discern are mainly florals and synthetic white musk, with the magnolia crudely fighting with the jasmine for dominance. With smoky and metallic facets, Eki smells like a rejected prototype for Montale's Greyland.

Another limited edition, another guinea pig experiment for the Slumberhouse cohorts. Pass.

Ore by Slumberhouse

*****

Year: 2009

Notes: scotch, clary sage, black pepper, cocoa, palmarosa, guaiac wood, Peru balsam

Comment: Eau de Parfum review

Not only is Ore a dusty, dark and sensual ode to cacao, it's also edgy and quintessentially masculine.

Beginning with a boozy opening, the black pepper and cocoa make their presence known almost immediately. The woods enhance the dry bitterness of the cocoa, but it never gets too woody or even smoky. Although the entire composition is barely sweet, only the Peru balsam manages to provide a tender sugary reprieve. By the drydown, all that largely remains is a balsamic chocolate whisper.

Providing great longevity, whilst remaining close to the skin, it offers a unique twist to the theme and should be seen more as an earthy (rather than a confectionary) gourmand. However, there are more superior alternatives to choose from, such as Parfumerie Générale's Aomassaï and Cozé (another niche fragrance house that Josh Lobb is reportedly an avid fan of).

*****

Year: 2013

Notes: whiskey lactone, oregano, cocoa, vanilla, mahogany, oak, guaiac wood, Peru balsam, Mysore sandalwood

Comment: Parfum extrait review

Unfortunately, something went terribly wrong during the re-interpretation for Ore...

The extrait smells far more musty and woody, the vanilla is almost nondescript and the cocoa (its main selling point) has been toned down several notches. Setting aside the relatively light and pleasant spicy undertow, it's not as endearing as the Eau de Parfum, resulting in a seriously botched-up reformulation.

Although the Eau de Parfum version was discontinued, due to the difficulties in finding all the right components, the parfum extrait is inferior in every way.

Grev by Slumberhouse

*****

Year: 2009

Notes: fir, clove, orris, birch, cedar, copaiba balsam

Described as a "post-modern version of an elegant masculine cologne", Grev is a gentle and soapy concoction of citrus, spices, woods and balsams.

With a sparkling opening of citrus and (what seems to be) rosemary, both the fir and clove add an aromatic flair to the proceedings. It has been mentioned that the clove is overwhelming, but one doesn't sense that... unless the sample this review is based on is from a reformulated batch.

The coniferous aspect soon goes into full swing but is fleeting, allowing the orris to infiltrate and intensify. With a subtle grassy nuance present throughout the spicy haze, the birch and cedar apologetically surface on a bed of copaiba balsam. Overall, its lifespan is disappointingly short and it largely remains a skin scent, with a tangy mineral aroma that turns sour during the drydown.

Personally, there's nothing particularly special or interesting about Grev. While the execution isn't as crude as some of this house's other fragrances, there's still something decidedly hollow and amateurish about it. As for the clove issue, Josh Lobb (Slumberhouse's founder and 'perfumer') is known to regularly tweak and reformulate his creations, and it's not always due to the costs or availability of the components.

Based on the above, one is totally miffed as to why this house is so popular, especially when most perfumistas view reformulations to be the ultimate betrayal. Enhancements? Well, why not perfect the compositions before putting them out on the market? Such product inconsistencies may be considered novel to some, but it seems that Josh is incapable of releasing definitive versions of his olfactory ideas and standing by them.

Vikt by Slumberhouse

*****

Year: 2009

Notes: Madagascan laurel, aniseed, frankincense, oud, styrax, Mysore sandalwood

Comment: Eau de Parfum review

Slumberhouse's founder, Josh Lobb, has publicly proclaimed that his works should be considered "outside the mainstream", and has also admitted preferring to use absolutes and disliking essential oils.

However, anyone experienced enough will know that absolutes aren't necessarily superior. Furthermore, such a stance greatly narrows down a perfumer's palate, as many components are only available in essential oil form. So, one is surprised to learn of Vikt, consisting of oud (or agarwood) oil... which is an essential oil.

From all the Slumberhouse releases, the closest point of comparison would be Norne. Although both possess green and resinous aspects, Norne is darker, denser and more coniferous, while Vikt is woodier, drier and more spacious. Vikt also exudes an aromatic flair, with some laurel and aniseed intermingling with a vegetal-resinous underscore. As for the oud, it's fresh but also verdantly fruity.

There's hardly any evidence of smoke or frankincense, and it's certainly not the dark woody animal as regularly purported. However, it's better composed than most of the offerings from this house, with a drydown that's just as satisfying as the opening. By Slumberhouse's standards, that in itself is a rare feat.

With moderate sillage and excellent tenacity of at least 12 hours, although Vikt comes across as another oud bandwagon jumper, it eschews the typical floral and amber combinations that other houses frantically exploit. It also smells natural and should be considered as a quality benchmark for future Slumberhouse releases.

Finally, there's something to write home about.

Jeke by Slumberhouse

*****

Year: 2008

Notes: lapsang souchong, clove, tobacco, patchouli, labdanum, benzoin, cade

Comment: Eau de Parfum review

Many of this house's creations revolve around resins, balsams, dried fruits, spices, tobacco and leather, with a molasses sweetness, a la Serge Lutens (Josh Lobb is a self-confessed worshipper of Christopher Sheldrake). Jeke is another example of what's considered to be Slumberhouse's signature style.

Apparently, it "evokes autumn twilight with masculine fragrance of burning wood" but one is unable to identify with such a description. Instead, it's more reminiscent of a sweeter and denser version of Black Tourmaline by Olivier Durbano, but with tobacco and clove replacing the frankincense. Granted, it's spicy and leathery, with a prominent burnt caramel note, but there's nothing particularly complex or endearing about it.

And that's the problem with Jeke – it smells clumsy and unfinished, with no indication that it was developed or blended properly. Overall, it smells like a hodgepodge of essential oils and absolutes thrown together, with very little foresight. The tobacco is unable to really shine, the patchouli comes across as stifled and the sweetness overpowers any smokiness detectable. There are no nuances, layers or evidence of any genuine development – just one sweet woody mess.

As for longevity and projection, there's too much hyperbole surrounding the general performance of this house's fragrances, which one considers to be utter poppycock. The thing is, most of them range from average to good, in the longevity department, often with very little sillage and Jeke is no exception.

With that said, it could have been much worse, hence not being rated any lower.

*****

Year: 2013

Notes: tobacco, patchouli, labdanum, benzoin, cade

Comment: Parfum extrait review

In comparison to the Eau de Parfum, the extrait is markedly smokier and drier. One also finds that the cade is given more opportunity to breathe, with any sweetness and spiciness drastically reduced. It's also structurally sparser than its predecessor but it hardly projects – one has to sniff extremely close to the application point, to detect anything at all.

While the parfum extrait smells more balanced, the Eau de Parfum is richer and stronger. Those who found the Eau de Parfum too sweet and cloying may derive some satisfaction from this whimsical pseudo-extrait, but one found it lacking in substance.

With regards to the Slumberhouse releases, in general, one gets the distinct impression that Josh is basically throwing his underdeveloped maverick ideas against the wall and seeing what sticks.

© 2010 – 2026 Scent for Thought. All rights reserved.