Caffe delle Vergini by Hilde Soliani Profumi

*****

Year: 2013

Notes: coffee, ink, two types of vetiver

Going by the listed notes, one was expecting Caffe delle Vergini (allegedly the name of the first Italian bar that women could enter) to be something special. Unfortunately, this woody-aromatic is very much a let down.

Opening with a dry and (disappointingly) fleeting coffee accord, the ink acts as a faint segue between the two main components (an olfactory idea already explored by Lalique's Encre Noire). However, one is hard-pressed to detect the two types of vetiver, let alone their complex woody properties, and instead senses that the vetiver used is possibly a highly rectified vetiveryl acetate.

With a mild aqueous leaning, as opposed to an earthy one, it continues to evolve in a way that confounds one's original expectations, while exuding a sweet floral cleanness. It's only when the composition approaches the drydown that one can't help discerning certain olfactory parallels between Caffe delle Vergini and Gendarme's Gendarme.

As it stands, Caffe delle Vergini fails to fully exploit its touted vetiver premise and, instead, comes off as some coffee-infused Gendarme flanker. Based on the fact that one anticipated a lot more, especially with regards to the vetiver aspect, it simply fails to deliver.

Longevity and projection are both respectable.

Bosschiisssimo by Hilde Soliani Profumi

*****

Year: 2013

Notes: bergamot, eucalyptus, Canadian pine, Siberian pine, moss

Comment: Bosschiisssimo is part of the Profumo e Gusto in Libertà Collection

During a dinner at El Molino restaurant, in the ski resort of Cavalese, chef Alessandro Gilmozzi presented Hilde with a special dessert, called Essence. Tasting it brought back personal memories of walks taken through pine forests, as well as walking barefoot in the woods during summer. Bosschiisssimo encapsulates these personal experiences.

Opening with a menthol-tinged bergamot opening, the coniferous accords quickly present themselves, emitting fresh, verdant and slightly woody properties. Some moss lurks beneath the surface but it intensifies over time. As the composition evolves, its tone becomes darker and earthier.

The green coniferous aspect gradually fades, as a more notable woodiness replaces it. Sadly, it turns out to be an underhanded serving of cedar. With hopes of a substantial moss base now dashed, any personal interest in the remainder of the drydown comes to a grinding halt.

Just like Fighisssimo, Bosschiisssimo is a woody-green effort that's greatly marred by poor tenacity, as well as the unexpected inclusion of cedar. Had things been very different, a bottle might have been on the horizon.

Fighisssimo by Hilde Soliani Profumi

*****

Year: 2013

Notes: fig leaf, black fig, fig wood

Comment: Fighisssimo is part of the Profumo e Gusto in Libertà Collection

Fighisssimo is based on the three olfactory properties of a fig tree - the leafy greenness, the ripe fruitiness and the petioled milkiness.

Its development is quite rapid – opening with a citrus-infused verdant aroma, quickly followed by a succulent fig accord, and then winding down with a quiet milky and woody fig aspect. As all three stages overlap each other, it's pretty compelling to observe and smells remarkably natural.

Unfortunately, it's largely over within a matter of minutes, leaving only gentle creamy fig wood traces with a faint fig sappiness. One also discerns a notable vanillic accent during the latter stages of the drydown.

It's such a pity as, if it was more potent and tenacious, one would have deemed it as the best fig fragrance one has encountered so far.

Loggione by Hilde Soliani Profumi

*****

Year: 2014

Notes: grapefruit, melon, strawberry, blueberry, peach, apricot, mint, juniper berry

Comment: Loggione is part of the Teatro Olfattivo Parma 08 Collection

Dedicated to the diverse mixture of opera fans, who attend the Teatro Regio di Parma, Loggione is practically a fruit cocktail creation.

Upon the fruity opening, there's very little mint but an underlining of juniper can be detected. As the sweetness subsides, the juniper comes more to the fore and adds a subdued earthy woodiness. Although the composition darkens somewhat in tone, there's virtually no further development beyond this point.

Being very feminine in its general demeanour, and with moderate staying power, one would only recommend it to lovers of syrupy fruity offerings.

Fruit punch, anyone?

Crema di Latte by Hilde Soliani Profumi

*****

Year: 2012

Notes: milk, sugar, vanilla

Comment: Crema di Latte is part of the Teatro Olfattivo Parma 08 Collection

Based on the Sicilian pastry-filling, primarily consisting of milk, sugar, eggs, vanilla, cinnamon and lemon zest, Crema di Latte is potentially a gourmand lover's wet dream.

It's intensely lactonic, with an exceedingly rich blend of full-fat cream, vanilla essence and caramel. The syrupy opening is very similar to sweetened condensed milk, before a buttery eggnog mid-stage presents itself. When it finally settles down, it smells closer to hot milk with a light serving of spices.

While one applauds Hilde Soliani for the composition, it's not endearing enough to be worn on a daily basis (let alone owning 100ml). Furthermore, even though its excessive sweetness makes a statement, its lasting power and sillage both fail to do the same.

Il Tuo Tulipano Giallo by Hilde Soliani Profumi

*****

Year: 2012

Notes: Calabrian bergamot, rosemary, basil, thyme

Touted as a continuation from Tulipano / Il Tuo Tulipano, Il Tuo Tulipano Giallo has been conceived as a modern Eau de Cologne but in Eau de Parfum concentration.

Stripped down to the bone, it's a fresh and straightforward take on its predecessor. The bergamot's buoyancy is lifted by the rosemary and the herbs provide a green facet. A suggestive floral-musk foundation is also apparent but, overall, there really isn't much beyond that.

With moderate sillage and below average lasting power, it could have been a little more bracing, interesting and longer lasting.

Purezza by Hilde Soliani Profumi

*****

Year: 2013

Notes: flowers, soap

Comment: Purezza is part of the Gli Invisibili Collection

The name 'gli invisibili' is Italian for 'the invisibles' but, while the releases in this collection are more feeble than imperceptible, Purezza goes one step further.

Purezza is "a scent of freshly washed sheets drying in the sun. The smell of soap and beauty", which is rather an accurate description. However, with so many clean and anti-perfume fragrances already available, there isn't really any point in its existence. As sceptical as one usually is, this clearly isn't art but merely a cash-in on an olfactory theme – exploiting childhood memories and sentimentality as its main selling point.

Yes, it's simple and clean in its general aroma, but it provides nothing more that the use of a good floral laundry detergent and a decent bar of soap can already achieve.

Rosa d'Inverno by Hilde Soliani Profumi

*****

Year: 2013

Notes: rose, Damascus rose, English rose, plastic, steel

Comment: Rosa d'Inverno is part of the Gli Invisibili Collection

Rosa d'Inverno is inspired by the smell of soft plastic dolls, from the 1960s, which were usually rose-scented to mask their synthetic odour.

Commencing with a rose-infused aroma of plastic and steel, it's initially astringent but soon settles down. With a structural simplicity, this artificial blend of plastic, rose and steel intermingle with each other on an even keel. Possessing moderate sillage and average longevity, the late-drydown reveals nuances of a dusty electrical coil cooling down.

While it's an interesting olfactory experience, it's not a fragrance that one would wish to own.

Lacrima by Hilde Soliani Profumi

*****

Year: 2013

Notes: aquatic notes, metallic notes

Comment: Lacrima is part of the Gli Invisibili Collection

Inspired by frost and snowflakes, Lacrima is a mineral aquatic creation.

With a fresh, metallic and rather salty vibe, it adequately conjures up images of frozen water, and snow-capped mountains and landscapes. However, like the majority of this collection, it's far from being robust. Possessing a clean, transparent and saline aura, its expensive price tag would make even a grown man cry.

Frankly, there are cheaper marine scents available that would closely match its olfactory premise.

IO by Hilde Soliani Profumi

*****

Year: 2012

Notes: pink pepper, tuberose, iris

Comment: IO is part of the Gli Invisibili Collection

IO is a beguilingly clean tuberose creation, with dusty touches of pepper and iris.

It's almost candy sweet yet not overbearing, with a black grape nuance in the background. The iris also exudes an antiquated vibe that some may find too old-fashioned. IO could also be considered the missing jigsaw piece to 24.09.11 and, when combined, produce an olfactory experience not too dissimilar from Vecchi Rossetti.

But, as always with most of the Gli Invisibili Collection, it starts out promising and then devolves into a whisper of nothingness. One can only assume that Hilde Soliani Profumi has adopted the dishonest approach of many designer houses, by releasing top-heavy fragrances with bland and insubstantial bases.

With moderate lasting power and low sillage, one will award an extra star only because, along with Cristina, it's one of the better releases from this collection.

Zio Agide by Hilde Soliani Profumi

*****

Year: 2012

Notes: lavender, fern

Comment: Zio Agide is part of the Gli Invisibili Collection

Being a fan of green fragrances, one is always open to new discoveries from this scent family. Dedicated to her uncle, Zio Agide initially appeared to fit the bill.

Unfortunately, it's too simplistic and focuses more on the lavender than anything else. With a subtle sweetness and a light woody base, it's too anaemic for an Eau de Parfum and is a grave disappointment. Categorised as a contemporary fougère, the composition isn't even worthy of being considered a true fougère.

And so the search for a substantial, yet contemporary, woody-green continues...

Vagabondo by Hilde Soliani Profumi

*****

Year: 2012

Notes: fig, spices, rose, walnut, poplar, oak, birch

Comment: Vagabondo is part of the Gli Invisibili Collection

Originally intended as a masculine offering, Vagabondo begins with a flurry of notes before settling into a gentle and discreet woody denouement, with discreet spicy nuances.

The fig is rather subtle and the rose is almost crystalline. However, it's just another tedious woody effort lacking any originality or substance. Staying close to the skin, with moderate lasting power, there's nothing particularly noteworthy about it.

Presenze by Hilde Soliani Profumi

*****

Year: 2012

Notes: bergamot, lily of the valley, jasmine, amber, patchouli, vetiver, vanilla

Comment: Presenze is part of the Gli Invisibili Collection

Presenze is supposedly an ethereal vanilla offering, but one finds it excruciatingly nondescript.

Yes, it does exhibit a freshness (both from the bergamot and lily of the valley) and the jasmine is discreet, but there's hardly any structure. The woody accords are barely there and the vanilla is excruciatingly thin. As for its general performance on the skin, it's pretty abysmal.

One isn't completely sure just how synthetic Presenze is, as it doesn't smell particularly natural. However, one thing's for certain – this house has been churning out far too many new releases recently.

Cristina by Hilde Soliani Profumi

*****

Year: 2012

Notes: patchouli, labdanum, vanilla

Comment: Cristina is part of the Gli Invisibili Collection

Named after one of Hilde's best friends, Cristina is a lovely patchouli offering, which incorporates labdanum and vanilla in a harmonious manner.

Boasting two rare varieties of patchouli, the composition oscillates between sweet and earthy, although it's the sweetness of the vanilla that eventually triumphs. Beyond that, there isn't a lot to add, apart from the fact that it possesses moderate sillage and below average longevity.

However, for all its virtues, one still considers it very overpriced for what it is.

24.09.11 by Hilde Soliani Profumi

*****

Year: 2012

Notes: calamus, frankincense, myrrh, amber

Comment: 24.09.11 is part of the Gli Invisibili Collection

Acting as another homage to Hilde's late father, or a dedication to her 'angel', 24.09.11 combines various resins with calamus (which is considered a sacred grass in many religions).

The earthy green aspect of the calamus initially throws the composition into disarray but, soon afterwards, the journey is both smooth and serene. When the calamus fully settles, it yields a milkiness that blends extremely well with the amber, frankincense and myrrh, to help produce a sweet powdery amber trail.

While it's wispy and lacking in tenacity, one feels that Hilde has already composed superior powdery creations, such as the excellent Vecchi Rossetti. Furthermore, for a little more money, Profumum's Soavissima would be a more robust alternative.

Tutti Matti per Colorno by Hilde Soliani Profumi

*****

Year: 2012

Notes: fennel, flower grass, wild flowers, dandelion, hay

Comment: Tutti Matti per Colorno is part of the Gli Invisibili Collection

Colorno is a small village near Parma, Italy, and Tutti Matti per Colorno strives to encapsulate the aroma of hay stacks during the autumn season.

With an interesting aromatic combination of fennel, hay and wild green florals, the composition exudes a floral-herbaceous translucency, which weaves throughout a dark aniseed-like sweetness. The blending is acceptable and the accords are well-proportioned, yet one believes that its performance on the skin is closer to an Eau de Cologne than an Eau de Parfum.

Although it's a unique release, its structure is too skeletal and underdeveloped. Maybe if Hilde spent more time fleshing it out, it would have been reviewed more favourably.

Bambolina by Hilde Soliani Profumi

*****

Year: 2012

Notes: bergamot, lemon, water fruits, apricot, cherry, cherry blossom, musk

Comment: Bambolina is part of the Gli Invisibili Collection

Bambolina is a playful cherry blossom scent, with watermelon bubblegum nuances. The citrus accords provide a fleeting lift and the apricot is subtle but still discernible. It's initially promising but, alas, rapidly descends into cheap fruity-floral air freshener territory.

After working through the Gli Invisibili Collection, one has to confess that most of these creations really aren't a patch on this house's previous efforts.

Conaffetto by Hilde Soliani Profumi

*****

Year: 2010

Notes: orange blossom, sugar, almond

Comment: Conaffetto is part of the Profumo e Gusto in Libertà Collection

Created for a close friend's wedding, and inspired by confetti (sugar coated almond sweets served at weddings, in Italy), Conaffetto opens with an odd sharpness before settling down to a smooth sugary almond purr.

The orange blossom imparts a honey-sweet floral temperament that incessantly interweaves throughout. When compared to Mazzolari's Alessandro, Conaffetto isn't noticeably bitter, powdery or vanillic, but more vibrant and inviting. With decent projection and very good staying power, it's a wonderfully composed almond interpretation that treads its own unique path.

It's clear that Hilde invested a considerable amount of love and care into this mesmerising creation.

Doolciiisssimo by Hilde Soliani Profumi

*****

Year: 2009

Notes: cherry, tobacco, patchouli, vanilla

Comment: Doolciiisssimo is part of the Profumo e Gusto in Libertà Collection

Inspired by a recipe from a trendy restaurant in Milan, Doolciiisssimo revisits Bell'Antonio but smells cheap and synthetic during the opening. It also incorporates an undesirably crude cherry note.

With a honeyed sweetness, it evolves into something close to Bell'Antonio after a while, as a dry vanilla accord supports the composition throughout its five hour lifespan. But, going by its price, it would be wiser to purchase Guerlain's Spiritueuse Double Vanille instead – one's personal benchmark for pipe tobacco vanillas.

CiocoSpesizissimo by Hilde Soliani Profumi

*****

Year: 2009

Notes: tomato vine, Italian basil, pepper, spices, white chocolate, Brazilian cocoa, woods

Comment: CiocoSpesizissimo is part of the Profumo e Gusto in Libertà Collection

Based on a liqueur made by Hilde Soliani's grandmother, CiocoSpesizissimo is very intriguing indeed – opening with the greenness of basil and tomato vine upon a bed of spices, different types of chocolate and woods.

Featuring a demure spicy creaminess, it's not particularly sweet but more dusty and aromatic. With insufficient sillage and disappointing longevity, its performance appears to be typical of the offerings in this collection. As a result, it's overpriced for what it is, plus it also lacks the endearing qualities of CiocoRosissimo.