T. Habanero by Rania J.

*****

Year: 2014

Notes: pink pepper, black pepper, cardamom, black tobacco, myrrh, frankincense, leather, oud, sandalwood

T. Habanero is a spicy leathery oud offering, which opens with a sharp piquant blast before settling down.

With dry swirls of pepper, the cardamom hovers above the leather, myrrh and oud. There's also an initial green aromatic aspect that intrigues, but this could be due to the cardamom conspiring with the black tobacco (and possibly a stealth serving of some herbs). As for the black tobacco itself, it isn't as dark, bitter or prominent as expected, with the composition more focused on the leather-oud pairing. And although the woody-leather base is slightly smoky and arid, there's an occasional sweetness from the myrrh.

But its fundamental flaw lies in the fact that its name is very misleading, as the tobacco is minuscule. Also, it's somewhat of a structural mess, smells noticeably screechy and synthetic (especially during the drydown), and possesses below average lasting power.

While it may appeal to oud enthusiasts, one wouldn't recommend it to lovers of tobacco fragrances.

Oud Assam by Rania J.

*****

Year: 2013

Notes: bergamot, bitter orange, orange, black pepper, Indian oud, cedar, frankincense, vetiver, tonka bean, musk

Taking into account that most of the offerings by Rania J. include an oud accord, it seemed perfectly logical to release an oud-centric fragrance. However, Oud Assam fails to differ much from its oud-infused siblings.

Supposingly consisting of Indian oud, one doesn't detect any barnyard or faecal properties normally associated with this variety of oud oil. Instead, one's nose is subjected to a prickly oud note. Yes, there's also some black pepper present, but that irritable sensation seems to stem more from the result of a chemical onslaught.

After a few minutes, the oud (and that prickly sensation) subside to allow the rest of the woods through. With a mild smoky facet, the composition is more about woods and frankincense than oud, with the cedar and vetiver being the main players. Its overall performance is also similar to that of Lavande 44 – a fleeting blast of the star note, before quickly drying down to an unsatisfyingly feeble murmur.

With a gentle serving of tonka bean in the base, one can also discern something similar to civet residing in the background – possibly to fool the wearer that, when coupled with the cedar and vetiver, their nose is equating it to Indian oud. While it's a clever little trick, one isn't fooled that easily.

With hardly any of this house's efforts lasting beyond the five hour mark, Oud Assam is no exception. However, its main problem is that it's not a legitimate oud fragrance, regardless of whether or not the oud used is natural. And when compared to Ajmal's Al Shams Special Edition, which successfully reproduces the smell of genuine Indian oud oil, Oud Assam simply pales by comparison.

Jasmin Kâma by Rania J.

*****

Year: 2013

Notes: bergamot, Damascus rose, Egyptian jasmine, patchouli, heliotropin, vanilla, sandalwood, musk

While Jasmin Kâma could be considered a different take on jasmine, it still fails to impress.

Although the indolic aspect of the jasmine is apparent in the citrus-infused opening, it quickly loses its stature as time wears on. Interestingly enough, Jasmin Kâma's base is almost identical to the one in Rose Ishtar, and emits the same synthetic smokiness during the final stages. With dark woody undertones (probably due to the undeclared addition of some cedar), the final moments on the skin are grittier and overtly artificial.

Sadly, one can't overlook how contrived the whole affair is, with a floral designer vibe and mediocre quality. And just like the other fragrances from this French niche house, the opening is the best aspect, before it descends into a murky aroma chemical mire.

Lasting under four hours, its tenacity is also surprisingly meagre.

Lavande 44 by Rania J.

*****

Year: 2012

Notes: bergamot, petitgrain, lavender, patchouli, labdanum, oud, cedar, vetiver, tonka bean, musk

Lavande 44 is an unusually salty and soapy rendition of lavender, which is far removed from the woody-aromatic greenness of, say, Caron's Pour Un Homme.

Featuring woody and smoky undertones, the citruses and lavender are quite fleeting, with the lavender exuding some peppery facets. As for the woods, they are prominent for most of its lifespan (particularly the vetiver, oud and cedar).

Unfortunately, the composition is reduced to an almost imperceptible skin scent within half an hour. And while the tonka bean provides a little sweetness, during the drydown, its musky (and somewhat chalky) demeanour belies its brash opening.

Lingering for three to four hours, there are far better (and more substantial) niche alternatives available, such as Serge Lutens' Gris Clair, Tauer Perfumes' Rêverie au Jardin, Maria Candida Gentile's Luberon and some of the lavender-themed offerings from Esperienze Olfattive.

Rose Ishtar by Rania J.

*****

Year: 2012

Notes: bergamot, blackcurrant, Bulgarian rose, Damascus rose, patchouli, heliotropin, vanilla, sandalwood, musk

With a succulent bergamot and blackcurrant opening, Rose Ishtar is initially promising before disappointment abruptly sets in.

Comprising of two different types of rose, for the first few moments, it exhibits the various aspects of rose – the sweet jammy aspect, the iris-like lipstick nuances, a dewy floral freshness and the verdancy of a demure Ta'if rose. In most cases, the fruity top notes assist in creating this array of accents that rose is generally renowned for (particularly the blackcurrant with its green subtleties).

Regrettably, it's all downhill from there, with what went on before almost completely stripped away – resulting in a somewhat fresh and synthetic Bulgarian rose interacting with some spices. A little patchouli briefly appears, but it's the powdery and creamy woody-musky base that finally wins in the end.

While the opening is its main attraction, even at that stage one is strongly reminded of some of the offerings by Juliette Has a Gun. Also, there's a discreet plastic smokiness, towards the drydown, which is disconcerting at times. Personally, one wonders what could have been if the composition had headed in a completely direction, with better materials and blending.

Possessing a duration of under four hours on the skin, with moderate sillage, Rose Ishtar is yet another Rania Jouaneh effort that severely misses the mark.

Ambre Loup by Rania J.

*****

Year: 2012

Notes: clove, spices, labdanum, oud, cedar, guaiac wood, vanilla, Peru balsam, musk

While Ambre Loup is a commendable rendition of amber, it could have been better in so many ways.

The most noticeable thing about it is the spicy aspect, with clove and other spices initially at the forefront. But the star of the show is the labdanum, with its resinous and leathery facets. As for the oud, it only plays a minor supporting role and the other woods are just as suggestive. With a musky balsamic base, the vanilla is reined in to prevent the composition from becoming too sweet.

Personally, one wouldn't deem it as a candidate for one of the best amber fragrances available. It's fairly linear, possesses waxy root beer nuances and isn't distinctive enough. In addition, Ambre Loup is also quite similar to Angela Flanders' Ambre Noire, but isn't as interesting or endearing. For all the hype generated, one feels quite disappointed by its structure and lack of depth.

Projection is moderate, with average staying power.