Black V by AJ Arabia / Widian

*****

Year: 2015

Notes: lemon, peach, cinnamon, orange blossom, tuberose, solar accord, vanilla, caramel, cedar

Comment: Black V is part of the Black Collection

Established by Ali Aljaberi, and using the expertise of perfumer Jean-Claude Astier (responsible for many of M. Micallef's fragrances), AJ Arabia is a relatively new niche house from the United Arab Emirates. Available as a parfum extrait, Black V is pretty much a cookie-cutter concoction.

Allegedly alluding to the creativity of the 1920s, Black V is just another derivative designer-esque floral-oriental that's unconvincingly vintage-smelling. Opening with some citrus, peach and cinnamon, the composition soon makes it way to a white floral core. With a serving of caramel, to emphasise its feminine status, the sweetness is heightened before this house's predictably bland woody-musk base sets in.

Over recent years, more and more 'niche' houses have been trying their luck, by churning out insubstantial and third-rate parfum extraits with high price tags. And just like the gradual watering down of Eaux de Parfum, one strongly believes that the general quality of parfum extraits is going exactly the same way.

Projection is modest, with average longevity.

Black IV by AJ Arabia / Widian

*****

Year: 2015

Notes: bergamot, blackcurrant, prune, rose, white flowers, vanilla, leather, sandalwood, musk

Comment: Black IV is part of the Black Collection

Established by Ali Aljaberi, and using the expertise of perfumer Jean-Claude Astier (responsible for many of M. Micallef's fragrances), AJ Arabia is a relatively new niche house from the United Arab Emirates. Available as a parfum extrait, Black IV does have a certain charm.

Unlike the first three releases, from the Black Collection, Black IV leans more towards the feminine side. With a wonderfully succulent citrus and blackcurrant preface, the prune and florals ramp up the jammy aspect of the composition. Featuring a vanillic core, the leather is more suede-like. In typical fashion, the base comprises of AJ Arabia's signature sandalwood and white musk cocktail.

Its sweetness calmly pulsates throughout the composition's lifespan and, although nothing unique, it's a more agreeable effort. However, the synthetic woody-musk drydown is grating and one is extremely hard-pressed to take its retail price seriously. Smelling quite similar to something from David Jourquin, projection is modest and its lasting power is at least six hours.

Based on sampling the Black Collection, it's clear that Ali Aljaberi is just another niche fragrance opportunist, with far more money at his disposal than genuine olfactory sensibilities.

Black III by AJ Arabia / Widian

*****

Year: 2015

Notes: bergamot, spearmint, dry woods, leather, patchouli, vanilla, moss, sandalwood

Comment: Black III is part of the Black Collection

Established by Ali Aljaberi, and using the expertise of perfumer Jean-Claude Astier (responsible for many of M. Micallef's fragrances), AJ Arabia is a relatively new niche house from the United Arab Emirates. Available as a parfum extrait, one is left completely dumbfounded by Black III.

Beginning with some vibrant citrus and mint, this succulent opening is extremely deceptive and only acts as a temporary smokescreen to a very bland woody-leather affair. With the emergence of some sweetness later on, there's nothing special about it to warrant the high price that it commands – especially when there are so many other generic (and cheaper) niche alternatives available.

Although not listed, the composition clearly rests on a white musk base, and its performance on the skin is no different from its siblings. Another case of the emperor's new clothes? Yes, most definitely.

Black II by AJ Arabia / Widian

*****

Year: 2014

Notes: mandarin, plum, rose, vanilla, moss, sandalwood, musk

Comment: Black II is part of the Black Collection

Established by Ali Aljaberi, and using the expertise of perfumer Jean-Claude Astier (responsible for many of M. Micallef's fragrances), AJ Arabia is a relatively new niche house from the United Arab Emirates. Available as a parfum extrait, Black II is brutally disappointing.

Opening with a jammy fruit and rose pairing, one is immediately hit by the realisation that it smells very similar to a bakhoor concentrated perfume oil... a budget-priced one. Yes, the quality is slightly higher than something from, say, El Nabil, but that's still insufficient to account for its exclusive price tag. As always with this house, there are lashings of white musk and sandalwood, with some vanilla emerging towards the end. Again, sillage is close to the skin, with respectable staying power.

From where one is standing, it's clearly evident that these AJ Arabia offerings are nothing more than half-baked vanity projects, unconvincingly professing to be luxurious and of a high calibre.

Black I by AJ Arabia / Widian

*****

Year: 2014

Notes: cardamom, cinnamon, cypress, frankincense, cedar, sandalwood, musk

Comment: Black I is part of the Black Collection

Established by Ali Aljaberi, and using the expertise of perfumer Jean-Claude Astier (responsible for many of M. Micallef's fragrances), AJ Arabia is a relatively new niche house from the United Arab Emirates. Available as a parfum extrait, one isn't particularly impressed with Black I.

Smelling noticeably sweet, the listed notes aren't much of an indication of its general aroma. Yes, there's some cedar, sandalwood and artificial musk present, but the other accords are too obscure. Some frankincense and cypress occasionally come to the fore but that's about it. With discreet projection and good longevity, one fails to notice any quality, uniqueness or mastery in the composition. Instead, what one detects verges dangerously close to a woody detergent freshness.

Ultimately, Black I is simply a Montale wannabe – housed in a lavish-looking bottle, and with a pseudo parfum extrait status, to justify its expensive price tag.