Kohl by Hind Al Oud

*****

Year: unknown

Notes: mandarin, saffron, geranium, rose, jasmine, amber, oud, musk

Comment: Kohl is only available in the United Arab Emirates and Qatar

Established in 2003, by Mohamed Hilal, Hind Al Oud is a Dubai-based niche house that attempts to develop a "harmonious balance" between Arabian and Western olfactory influences.

Opening with an eyebrow raising juxtaposition of accords, Kohl is difficult to pin down yet not completely alien to one's nose. Unleashing a peppery aromatic twist, with a virile mandarin onslaught, one can't help but detect certain parallels with Parfums de Nicolaï's Maharanih – including an extremely prominent orange zest that's at odds with the geranium and its 'complementary' accord (saffron for Kohl and lavender for Maharanih).

The geranium shifts to the fore, after the challenging top notes have mellowed, while the saffron, florals, amber and oud generate a dark yet mildly astringent plum-like aroma. With a woody-musk foundation, it still remains bewildering but compelling at the same time. Unfortunately, one is continuously bemused more than seduced by its somewhat awkward evolution.

With decent lasting power, unlike Maharanih, Kohl isn't as brash but softer in its general demeanour. However, just like Parfums de Nicolaï's creation, one is still on the fence as to its wearability. While it isn't a completely original olfactory statement, one still gets the impression that it would serve better as a high-end air freshener instead of a personal fragrance.

* A special thanks goes out to Joseph for making this review possible.

Musk Al-Shiokh by Hind Al Oud

*****

Year: unknown

Notes: rose, patchouli, vetiver, precious woods, musk

Comment: Musk Al-Shiokh is only available in the United Arab Emirates and Qatar

Musk Al-Shiokh is a strange and yet intriguing woody-musk creation, which exhibits a dark, smoky and strong masculine aura.

With a plastic and medicinal opening, its smouldering smokiness appears to originate from the vetiver, with the rose and patchouli struggling to defuse such a stark and savage introduction. As it develops, a birch tar aspect becomes even more identifiable.

Unfortunately, it develops into something a lot less compelling, as an uninteresting woody-musk drydown soon emerges with a metallic sheen. Coupled with an inferior performance, it could have been so much better.

* A special thanks goes out to Joseph for making this review possible.

Al Oud by Hind Al Oud

*****

Year: unknown

Notes: pepper, saffron, rose, agarwood, patchouli, cedar, sandalwood

Comment: Al Oud is only available in the United Arab Emirates and Qatar

Al Oud is Hind Al Oud's signature fragrance, which is an exploration of the agarwood accord.

Although it's nothing extraordinary, regarding the combination of materials that encompasses the agarwood, its execution is more skillful and restrained than its Western counterparts. With all the accords playing an equally important role, they are well-blended and oscillate in strength throughout most of the composition's lifespan.

With a balanced woody base, the agarwood settles down considerably but the creamy sandalwood rises to the occasion (accompanied by non-intruding cedar and patchouli nuances). Both the pepper and saffron inexorably interweaves throughout, as a sweet powdery rose softly exudes a pulpy facet (highly redolent of Bulgarian rose essential oil) that exhibits a greater presence over time.

Overall, it's beautifully constructed, as it dries down to an alluring pot-pourri of rose, woods and spices. At first, one was weary of smelling yet another saffron-rose-oud creation but Al Oud certainly stands out, with plenty of interesting twists and turns (as well as comparisons to the Montale rose-ouds and even Sisley's Soir de Lune). And although its emission off the skin is somewhat conservative, it lingers for a considerably long time.

With that said, it comes highly recommended.

* A special thanks goes out to Joseph for making this review possible.

Emarati Musk by Hind Al Oud

*****

Year: unknown

Notes: bergamot, blackcurrant, dates, violet, lotus, ylang-ylang, vanilla, oud, musk

Comment: Emarati Musk is only available in the United Arab Emirates and Qatar

One has never been terribly enthusiastic about either white musks or fruity-florals, but Emarati Musk remains a remarkably pleasant fusion.

The fruits are both succulent and voluptuous, with the florals coming across as more understated (but the violet isn't so discernible, probably due to the dominance of the blackcurrant). With a well-measured serving of vanilla and a hint of coconut, the oud adds a gentle earthiness to the clean white musk. But this changes towards the end as the oud takes over the reins, leading the proceedings towards a parched woody denouement.

While it isn't a complex composition, it's still rewarding to wear. With moderate sillage and respectable staying power, it's sweet and vivacious yet in possession of sufficient depth.

* A special thanks goes out to Joseph for making this review possible.