Kinski by Escentric Molecules

*****

Year: 2011

Notes: bergamot, aldehydes, blackcurrant, plum, white wine, Peruvian pepper, juniper berry, nutmeg, marijuana accord, sea notes, orange blossom, rose, magnolia, orchid, hedione, cistus, amber, benzoin, styrax, suede, patchouli, vetiver, cedar, moss, costus root, castoreum, musk

As much as one deeply deplores Escentric Molecules' heinous olfactory concept, and doesn't particularly care for the majority of Geza Shoen's 'creations', Kinski briefly came across as surprisingly interesting (after all, one does have a soft spot for juniper). However, this encouraging first impression didn't last very long...

Composed under license from Kinski Productions, to mark the 20th anniversary of Klaus Kinski's death, Kinski is filled to the brim with so many components that it'd be pretentious to associate any stage or accord with the late actor's personality (not that one knew him personally). Therefore, one isn't going to bother.

Just imagine Mark Buxton working on his latest synthetic woody magnum opus, whilst smoking one too many joints, and then mistakenly adding some juniper to the composition instead of frankincense. That more or less sums up one's premature impression of it.

But, upon further investigation, one notices that the opening is rather similar to Hermès' Terre d'Hermès. In turn, its synthetic, aquatic and salty vetiver note appears to represent the core aspects of Lalique's Encre Noire and The Different Company's Sel de Vetiver. Yes, it's peppery with a hint of spices and, as expected, is resinous in a grating manner with an uncouth cedar accord. As for any animalic presence, it's there but watered down.

After some deliberation, Kinski is just another cheap money-grabbing exercise, which incorporates elements of all the previous Escentric Molecules releases and palms it of as a tribute to a famous deceased German actor. But, then again, christening it ‘Escentric Molecules' Greatest Hits, Volume 1' wouldn't have generated as much interest or sales.

Escentric 03 by Escentric Molecules

*****

Year: 2010

Notes: Mexican lime, green pepper, ginger root, tea, Egyptian jasmine, orris, vetiveryl acetate, cedar, leather, amber, sandalwood, musk

Escentric 03 is simply Molecule 03 but accompanied with an array of supporting notes.

Compared to the last two Escentric releases, there appears to be more complexity involved in the composition. With that said, the overall impression one of a vetiver fragrance that slots in between Hermès' Terre d'Hermès and Montale's Red Vetyver.

Based on that, it's pretty much a pointless offering.

Molecule 03 by Escentric Molecules

*****

Year: 2010

Notes: vetiveryl acetate

After 'tackling' both Iso E Super and ambroxan, Escentric Molecules' Molecule 03 is based exclusively on the chemically modified vetiveryl acetate.

Viewed as a clinical derivative of vetiver essential oil (with fresh, sweet and woody properties), its creamy profile is suggestive of vetiver of the Bourbon variety. Given some time to develop on the skin, vetiveryl acetate smells surprisingly close to the aroma of Lalique's Encre Noir but less harsh. It also possesses gentle sillage and has better lasting power than Lalique's Iso E Super riddled offering.

With that said, 2.5ml of pure vetiveryl acetate can be easily acquired, for a fraction of the price of Molecule 03, and mixed with perfumer's alcohol (that's also relatively cheap) of anywhere up to 10% concentration. With the additional purchase of an empty glass atomiser of your choice, it's as simple as that.

But even if that wasn't the case, its high price and lack of artistry is still rather ridiculous, especially when pure and natural vetiver essential oil is inexpensive to obtain. With signs that this series is growing from strength to strength, one has already begun to speculate on Molecule 04. Ethyl vanillin, anyone?

Escentric 01 by Escentric Molecules

*****

Year: 2005

Notes: lime, pink pepper, frankincense, mastic, benzoin, Iso E Super

Escentric 01 is a very simple fragrance, which begs one to question how such a synthetic-smelling concoction managed to be successfully marketed at an exclusive price.

With a 65% concentration of Iso E Super, it boasts a sharp lime and pepper opening (smelling rather similar to gin and tonic) with a cedar and frankincense drydown. It's somewhat intriguing, if nothing more, especially with regards to its oscillating sillage and longevity.

However, its lack of complexity deems it as nothing more than an expensive gimmick, which undoubtedly cost very little to both develop and produce.

Escentric 02 by Escentric Molecules

*****

Year: 2008

Notes: elderflower, hedione, orris, vetiver, ambroxan, muscone

Basically, Escentric 02 is Molecule 02 but adorned with extra woody and floral notes. It's a clean woody scent, with a dominant cedar-like accord and a hint of earthy vetiver. However, one is unable to discern any orris in the composition at all (which does raise some suspicions, especially in relation to its extortionate price).

Possessing moderate sillage that disappears and then reappears, along with average lasting power, it's a clean and yet mediocre fragrance, which is more of a laboratory exploration of ambroxan than anything else.

With that said, it certainly isn't worth the money.

Molecule 02 by Escentric Molecules

*****

Year: 2008

Notes: ambroxan

Based on one aroma chemical, ambroxan, could Molecule 02 be seriously perceived as a respectable example of perfumery? Not in the slightest...

As a synthetic alternative to ambergris, ambroxan possesses a cedar-like opening, which is dry and somewhat coarse, before developing into an aromatic and woody-musk aroma. It's discreet, gentle and remains very close to the skin, with very good lasting power.

But when 2.5ml of pure ambroxan can be purchased for very little money, and mixed with perfumer's alcohol at 1% concentration, is there really any point in the existence of Molecule 02? Where's the artistry?

With a ridiculous price mark-up, it's houses like Escentric Molecules that give niche perfumery a bad name.

Molecule 01 by Escentric Molecules

*****

Year: 2005

Notes: Iso E Super

Based solely on one aroma chemical, Iso E Super, Molecule 01 is an insult to the perfume-buying public. Yes, it's a complete and utter marketing sham but the majority of the perfume-buying public is not as knowledgeable as they would like to think...

Iso E Super, is a molecule that plagues and ruins many of the modern mainstream masculine designer scents. As a synthetic base material, it's reputed to significantly prolong the longevity of a fragrance, with an artificial cedar-like accord and a peppery-incense underlining.

It should be remembered that Iso E Super acts as a fixative (similar to ambergris) and strictly isn't an accord in itself. Thus, wearing it in isolation is completely ridiculous (unless you wish to amplify your own body odour) as it's almost impossible to detect shortly after applying.

As for the price, this is really the biggest insult: 15ml of pure Iso E Super can be purchased for less than 5% of the retail price of Molecule 01. Furthermore, a 100ml bottle of perfumer's alcohol is extremely cheap to acquire and, once mixed with Iso E Super (at 10% dilution), would produce exactly the same result.

Therefore, it would be significantly cheaper to mix it yourself. At least the remaining funds could be spent on a scent that actually possesses an ounce of artistry and integrity.