Capo di Feno by Testa Maura

*****

Year: 2010

Notes: Mediterranean citrus fruits, everlasting flower

Capo di Feno is the name of a beach, located on the south-western coast of Corsica.

Composed as a traditional (but 100% natural) Eau de Cologne, it opens with a brief but invigorating citrus-green blast, before allowing some everlasting flower to enter the fray. There's also an aquatic note (possibly seaweed) throughout its development.

Unfortunately, even at Eau de Cologne strength, its performance is still relatively atrocious. And, combined with some everlasting flower (or immortelle), a healthy serving of davana is all that remains. If the citruses weren't so ephemeral, it might have been awarded an extra star.

Loriani by Testa Maura

*****

Year: 2008

Notes: bergamot, thyme, wild lavender, lavender, orange blossom, vanilla

Comment: Loriani is part of the Bucolica Collection

Named after the village where Xavier Torre was born, Loriani is mainly for lavender aficionados.

The opening is strong, herbaceous and bitter, with hardly any bergamot discernible. It's certainly not vibrant but slightly charred, with the mentholated quality one associates with lavender absolute. After a few moments, that medicinal combination of thyme and lavender continues to pulsate, while a subtle orange blossom note resides in the background. Throughout its lifespan, there's hardly any sweetness and the vanilla remains discreet.

With so-so projection and below average longevity, one feels that the composition is too heavy-handed with the thyme. However, while it may prove to be too abrasive for some, it's still a unique rendition of lavender.

Mia Murza by Testa Maura

*****

Year: 2008

Notes: bergamot, immortelle, patchouli, labdanum, Peru balsam

Comment: Mia Murza is part of the Bucolica Collection

With prominent citrus-herbaceous top notes, the immortelle makes a brief guest appearance, before a leathery and earthy demeanour takes hold.

Even though Mia Murza is reportedly an ode to immortelle (which is a common flower in perfumer Xavier Torre's Mediterranean homeland, Corsica), it's more about patchouli and labdanum. It certainly doesn't resemble other immortelle fragrances, but it's of no consolation to those who placed their faith in the press release.

While bereft of any olfactory association with maple syrup, the base notes still provide a reasonable amount of sweetness from both the labdanum and Peru balsam. A slight animalic chord is apparent, by this point, but its overall development lacks sufficient complexity.

Lasting between two to three hours, with disappointing sillage, one would have expected much more from such an expensive scent. Granted, it consists of 100% natural ingredients but, based on its simplicity, it wouldn't be that expensive to acquire these components and compose it yourself.

Aleria by Testa Maura

*****

Year: 2008

Notes: bergamot, citron, orange, mandarin, myrtle, ylang-ylang, beeswax, cedar, woods, sandalwood

Comment: Aleria is part of the Bucolica Collection

Composed as an ode to the orchards in the Corsican region of the same name, Aleria is a woody-citrus offering that initially tantalises the senses. Sadly, it lacks the backbone to see things through to the very end.

Boasting an array of citruses, one discerns a strong presence of either litsea cubeba or lemongrass. Combined with the myrtle, there's an undeniable aromatic flair present but the ylang-ylang is virtually undetectable. As the aromatic aspect wears off, a beeswax nuance joins the fray – tenderly tempering a dominant woody foundation, which largely consists of cedar.

While it smells completely natural, there's nothing innovative about it at all. Plus, its lasting power is extremely poor for an Eau de Parfum.

Aqua di Casta by Testa Maura

*****

Year: 2008

Notes: black pepper, ginger, rose, ylang-ylang, chestnut, vetiver, cedar, sandalwood

Comment: Aqua di Casta is part of the Bucolica Collection

Aqua di Casta is a dry and understated woody effort, inspired by the chestnut trees located in the mountainous region of Castagniccia, Corsica.

Commencing with a piquant black pepper and ginger pairing, the florals are both low-key and short-lived, as the composition heads straight towards a woody heart of vetiver and cedar. With a soft nuttiness from the chestnut, there's hardly any sweetness identifiable throughout its development. And the dry (but not creamy) sandalwood drydown complements everything that occurred before.

But just like its siblings, Aqua di Casta is a minimalist fragrance lacking in much substance, regardless of how well-blended it comes across. With almost non-existent projection and lasting power, it's definitely not worth its hefty price tag.

Carticasi by Testa Maura

*****

Year: 2008

Notes: mastic, galbanum, rose, ylang-ylang, cedar

Comment: Carticasi is part of the Bucolica Collection

Carticasi is the name of the village where perfumer Xavier Torre's mother was born.

It's a splendid woody-green offering – with the cut grass aroma of the mastic, the deep astringent greenness of the galbanum and the soft rose undertones all in unison. Overall, the composition is very well-balanced and the accords complement each other remarkably. The ylang-ylang is rather discreet but a slightly gritty woody base emerges after a while.

Although the opening is both strong and impressive, it runs out of steam way too early in its development. This is a real shame as, with some tweaking, it could have potentially been a good green-chypré, somewhere along the lines of Jacomo's Silences. Sadly, for an Eau de Parfum, it's severely lacking.