Beachwood by Costamor

*****

Year: 2009

Notes: bergamot, mandarin, marine accord, lavender, neroli, jasmine, coconut, cedar, amber, sandalwood, musk

Beachwood is an intriguing creation but also comes across as quite discordant. Featuring a marine accord, the notes tend to randomly pop-up before being rapidly superseded by something else.

By the mid notes, both the jasmine and coconut are the most perceptible components, as a clichéd and rather spiky cedar slowly gravitates towards the surface. The composition isn't as sweet as other fragrances from this house but, by this point, a milky aroma resounds throughout.

The cedar continues to intensify, accompanied by some sandalwood, while an ambery musk injection smooths out the drydown in a non-intrusive manner. During its final moments, the sandalwood retreats to allow the cedar to fully unleash its earthy (and somewhat charred) properties.

Although it's not terribly unpleasant, it still remains the most disappointing release by Costamor, with its overall performance rendered as both insubstantial and mundane.

Dulcess by Costamor

*****

Year: 2009

Notes: mandarin, pear, almond blossom, lily of the valley, cyclamen, coconut, vanilla, sandalwood, musk

Dulcess (which one presumes to be wordplay on 'duchess' and the Spanish word for sweet, 'dulce') is probably the most feminine-smelling offering by Costamor – syrupy coconut and vanilla accords, musky florals, and with no indication of any earthy attributes whatsoever.

It's delicate and slightly fruity but is also both unoriginal and fleeting. For something more substantial, there are more rewarding alternatives by other houses such as Profumum, Montale and even Aquolina.

Tabacca by Costamor

*****

Year: 2009

Notes: apple peel, spices, rose tea, jasmine, tobacco leaf, rare woods, amber

For a tobacco fragrance, the star accord is initially buried beneath a sweet and dense mélange of apple, spices and amber. During its initial development, there's also a predictable nod towards Hermès' Hermèssence Ambre Narguilé but the end result isn't as masterful.

When the tobacco finally reveals itself, as the apple and spices weaken in presence, it's musty with a subdued underlying crispness. The florals are non-intrusive but, by now, the sweetness has been tamed by a prominent smoky leathery aroma (leading one to conclude the presence of some labdanum).

Just like this house's other releases, it whizzes through both the top and mid notes to essentially reside on the drydown. Mild remnants of apple and tobacco are still discernible, but it's both the amber and woods (possibly consisting of cedar and sandalwood) that provide the main foundation for any lingering traces.

With acceptable projection and great longevity, those seeking a tobacco scent with some 'cojones' should look elsewhere. Personally, it's a reasonable creation that could have been quite outstanding if some extra time and thought had been invested.

Sugarwood by Costamor

*****

Year: 2009

Notes: bergamot, fig, sugar cane pulp, peony, jasmine, iris, cedar, musk

After an uplifting but brief bergamot overture, Sugarwood initially smells sweet but not excessively so. With the fig providing a jammy facet, it's more of a honeyed sweetness once paired with the sugar cane pulp.

The majority of the florals remain subtle throughout, but it's the iris and emerging cedar that imposes an almost medicinal quality to the mid notes. It's at this stage where the composition smells closest to the aroma of raw sugar cane but, sadly, it doesn't last particularly long.

Unfortunately, that's as good as it gets, with the cedar leading the proceedings towards a sweet immortelle-like musky drydown. As the sweetness gradually fades away, it becomes earthier than before – with an observable peppery nuance that slowly transforms into a subdued burnt facet. Personally, one would have preferred a more interesting component than a predictable cedar-infused base.

With discreet projection and good staying power, it's a good effort but there's nothing else to convince one that it's anything more than that.