Atlas by Laboratory Perfumes

*****

Year: 2016

Notes: orange, cognac, rum, raisin, black pepper, cinnamon, ginger, sea salt note, lavender, tobacco, hay, vanilla, coconut, patchouli, amber, tonka bean, vetiver, musk

Focusing primarily on tobacco, Laboratory Perfumes' fifth offering is a pleasant oriental but its lack of originality is very difficult to overlook.

While its composite aroma smacks of déjà vu, one is unable to pinpoint exactly what fragrance reminds one of Atlas. But then again, Moroccan exoticism has been done to death since Serge Lutens first pioneered it in the '90s. With boozy notes, an abundance of fruits and spices, and a woody-oriental base, some creations that are similar to Atlas include Hermès' Hermèssence Ambre Narguilé, Costamor's Tabacca, Brecourt's Harâm / Farah and Parfum d'Empire's Aziyadé, but these are merely off the top of one's head.

Drawing to a close with a sweet mélange of amber, tobacco, vanilla and woods, it's undoubtedly the best effort from this house to date. Unfortunately, based on its lack of ingenuity and inadequate staying power, one found it very difficult to justify awarding it an additional star.

Tonka by Laboratory Perfumes

*****

Year: 2015

Notes: mandarin, pink pepper, Peruvian pepper, woodland aromatics, tonka bean

Described as "exotic and indulgent", Tonka opens with a pleasant citrus-peppery coupling that's reminiscent of a Dolce & Gabbana masculine offering.

Comprising of mid notes that are termed as 'woodland aromatics', it's mostly a gentle and silky woody mélange that becomes spicier over time. With the composition exuding a warm earthiness, the tonka bean takes some time to fully surface. But, when it does, it places an emphasis on its vanillic and spicy properties.

With Tonka being the fourth Laboratory Perfumes release, it's encouraging to sense an improvement over their last three questionable efforts. And although one wouldn't deem it as exotic or indulgent, it's still quite pleasant and would make an ideal office sent.

Projection is moderate, with respectable tenacity.

Samphire by Laboratory Perfumes

*****

Year: 2013

Notes: citrus, rosemary, basil, juniper berry, verbena, lavender, white amber, oakmoss

Samphire is an aromatic offering, named after various distinct edible plants that thrive in coastal areas.

It commences with a full-bodied avalanche of citrus and juniper. The herbaceous notes remain discreet, while a dusty verbena accord is a lot more noticeable – supplementing that initially fresh and luminous citrus-aromatic aroma. As these components continue to intermingle, one senses some promise in the composition. However, when the lavender eventually reveals itself, things start to go awry...

At first, a weird smokiness pervades the proceedings, dulling all that went on before. As the smoke intensifies, an earthy fishiness emerges (like Amber but to a lesser degree) and continues that way. One can only assume that the lavender, amber and oakmoss haven't been blended as well as the opening.

As always with this house, both projection and staying power are respectable.

Amber by Laboratory Perfumes

*****

Year: 2012

Notes: green notes, spices, woods, earth, ambergris

Amber has to be one of the most baffling renditions of amber ever encountered.

With milky green top notes (similar to that of fig) intertwining with gentle spices, the rubbery amber accord that emerges is unconvincing. At some point, a creamy deluge of woods desperately attempt to add more weight to a futile experiment. And as a clay-like earthiness transpires, a faint fishy aroma becomes discernible.

Inspired by "the flora of the English countryside", and using clear minimalist-designed glass bottles to replicate the appearance of laboratory beakers, this house gives the impression of a niche imposter, with a sub-standard degree of expertise in perfumery.

Gorse by Laboratory Perfumes

*****

Year: 2012

Notes: citrus, green notes, cardamom, gorse

Gorse is an interesting but unusual spicy-citrus concoction, based on a shrub closely related to broom.

With an introductory blast of alcohol, the citrus eventually reveals itself alongside what smells like the contents of a bag of liquorice allsorts. After the citrus dissipates, the sweet spicy aspect rises and then falls (in terms of intensity), leaving both a creamy and slightly chalky drydown redolent of coconut nougat.

UK-based Laboratory Perfumes takes its inspiration from "the flora of the English countryside", but one is quite puzzled as to how Gorse and Amber possess any direct olfactory connection to such a concept. However, with regards to longevity and sillage, both are respectable.