Living Lavender by Esperienze Olfattive

*****

Year: 2014

Notes: grapefruit, lemon, lime, bitter orange, lavandin, lavender, tonka bean

Living Lavender is a deliciously sweet citrus creation, where the name is somewhat of a misnomer.

The citrus introduction is both deliriously candied and powdery, and is redolent of sherbet lemon boiled sweets. The grapefruit intensifies the lemon's acerbic properties, while both the orange and lime merely serve to provide an extra citric dimension. And just like the confection, the olfactory effect is excessively sweet, full-bodied and extremely tantalising.

As it progresses towards the mid notes, the lavandin and lavender coupling gradually emerge, in the midst of a lemon-induced sugar frosted haze. The tonka bean, which was already evident from the offset, slowly increases its stature while the citrus accords begin to recede. It's at this point that one is briefly reminded of Profumum's Dulcis in Fundo and, later on to a larger extent, Chypre Palatin by Parfums MDCI.

With the late-drydown consisting of tonka bean, traces of citrus and lavender, and possibly oakmoss, one feels that the name fails to adequately describe the fragrance itself. And although some lavender is quite perceptible throughout, it pretty much resides in the background. But, in saying that, it's still a lovely powdery and creamy citrus offering for those who have a sweet tooth.

Projection is moderate but it gracefully lingers on the skin for at least six hours.

DolceDesiderio by Esperienze Olfattive

*****

Year: 2012

Notes: geranium, Bulgarian rose, Turkish rose, patchouli, labdanum, benzoin, vanilla, rosewood

Inspired by the 18th century novel No Tomorrow, by Dominique Vivant Denon, about a tryst between a Madame and her young lover, in a villa outside Paris, Dolcedesiderio is a luscious and romantic rose affair.

Devoid of any citrus accords, the geranium immediately sets the scene. The rose coupling that soon follows is radiant, voluptuous and very seductive. The Bulgarian rose stands out the most, with its crystalline, spicy and creamy elegance, and smells as natural as the very absolute itself. This exuberant and velvety stage lingers for some time, before a hint of patchouli comes to the fore. But, instead of going down the dreaded woody route, it heads down a creamy ambery path, which does more justice to the rose bouquet.

With a gentle dusty aspect, during the late-drydown, it's a beautiful rose creation with a timeless aura about it. Like most of Roberto Dario's offerings, it's seamlessly blended and possesses an organic quality. However, one wished that it had significantly more presence on the skin.

Lasting power is under two hours.

Lavanda d'Oriente by Esperienze Olfattive

*****

Year: 2011

Notes: bergamot, lavender, patchouli, cistus, Atlas cedar, vetiver, tonka bean, oakmoss

With a professional background in chemistry, and a course with the Grasse Institute of Perfumery (GIP) under his belt, Roberto Dario is the founder of the Italian niche house, Esperienze Olfattive.

Using all natural ingredients, his creations are masterfully blended and are evocative of the traditional Eaux de Cologne of yesteryear. Available in Eau de Parfum concentration, Roberto's compositions are largely fresh and organic, and often possess a lavender theme. Lavanda d'Oriente is one study of this accord.

The first thing that one notices is how, unlike Roberto's other lavender-themed offerings, the floral aspect of the lavender is allowed to breathe. This is probably because it's also the only lavender-themed release that doesn't feature any lavandin, which tends to be drier and more camphorous. As a result, the lavender is sparkling and fresh, exhibiting various olfactory properties of this material.

Its overall aroma is rustic and serene, as a woody-amber backdrop materialises. With a smooth transition from beginning to end, the patchouli, cistus and oakmoss are clearly identifiable, while the cedar gradually provides a darker and woodier denouement.

While one finds it enjoyable, it seems to be missing something towards the drydown. Possibly some animalic musk could have made a difference but, after the opening, its oriental woodiness is somewhat bland. And then there's the lack of tenacity and sillage, which doesn't help matters.

Although Lavanda d'Oriente isn't a personal favourite, it still has some redeeming qualities.

Attimi by Esperienze Olfattive

*****

Year: 2011

Notes: grapefruit, clary sage, lavandin, chamomile, rosewood

Being 100% natural, Attimi isn't tenacious nor a powerhouse by any means.

Instead, it's very reminiscent of a traditional Eau de Cologne, with grapefruit, light woods and aromatic accents. After the grapefruit, the next noticeable accord is the clary sage, adding a green herbaceous touch. And both the lavandin and camomile further reinforce that herbaceous aspect, instead of revealing an outright floral core. One can also discern a suggestive spiciness throughout most of its lifespan.

As for the drydown, it's slightly citrusy yet sublime, featuring rosewood and possibly a hint of either castoreum or civet. With a gentle creaminess, a discreet faecal quality and a sweet sherbet-like texture, towards the end, one finds its evolution positively engaging.

Lasting under four hours, it's extremely pleasant for what it is. One's only reservation is that the grapefruit isn't as fresh or bracing as originally expected. Still, the quality of the ingredients is apparent, it's well-executed and is very affordable for an Eau de Parfum.

A Come... by Esperienze Olfattive

*****

Year: 2011

Notes: bergamot, cardamom, cinnamon, neroli, rose, jasmine, patchouli, benzoin, vanilla, vetiver, amyris

A Come... starts out vaguely similar to Living Lavender but with a heavy spiciness to it.

Featuring a prominent cardamom note, A Come... isn't as candied and lush as Living Lavender, but that lemon sherbet aspect is still discernible beneath the spices. Any comparisons are halted when a floral core emerges and interacts with the top notes. With a sweetness that's more subdued, the rose and jasmine gently pulsate, while mild woody facets brood in the background.

By the time it reaches the drydown, the woods and vanilla are more evident, and any spiciness is reduced to a bare minimum. This stage is quite alluring but, at the same time, it doesn't come across as structurally sound as most of its siblings. With the sandalwood-esque amyris in the base, the final moments on the skin result in a dusty woody-vanillic sheen.

For those who found Living Lavender too sweet, A Come... would be a reasonable substitute, especially given its woody foundation. However, one feels that it could have been executed better. The cardamom is sometimes at odds with the rest of the composition, some clarity is lacking and the floral notes could have been given a bit more emphasis. Still, one can't deny that the late-drydown is rather intoxicating.

As always with this house, projection is moderate but its staying power is at least six hours.

Lavanda Fizz by Esperienze Olfattive

*****

Year: 2011

Notes: bergamot, grapefruit, verbena, lavandin, lavender, neroli

As the name suggests, Lavanda Fizz is a sprightly hesperidic, spiked with some lavender, within the context of a classic Eau de Cologne (but in Eau de Parfum concentration).

With a wonderfully effervescent citrus and lavender blast, its natural freshness is truly captivating. The demure verbena reinforces the citrus aspect, but it's the sweetness of neroli that adds a lovely touch to the composition as a whole. Right until the very end, all the ingredients are well-proportioned and blended exceedingly well, with a drydown that's just as sweet, bright and clean as the mid notes.

Perfectly unisex and extremely easy to wear, it's literally a breath of fresh air when compared to many modern, and somewhat ostentatious, niche releases. Possessing modest sillage, and persisting for around three hours, one wished it lasted just as long as other releases from this impressive niche house.

Regardless of this minor quibble, it's an excellent effort that all lovers of Eaux de Cologne should investigate.

Spicy Lavender by Esperienze Olfattive

*****

Year: 2011

Notes: lemon, nutmeg, clove, verbena, lavandin, lavender, Virginia cedar, sandalwood

Spicy Lavender practically bypasses the citrus top notes and, with a pungent blast, showcases an almost pure lavender accord.

Not only is it natural and true-to-life, but the lavender exhibits more of its camphorous, herbaceous and woody properties instead of any floral suggestions. There's also a skanky facet that accompanies the opening, leading one to assume that this is primarily due to the combination of the lavandin and emerging spices.

As the lavender eventually settles down, a bold clove accent increases its volume, resulting in a dusty, peppery and austere heart. With subtle animalic undertones still evident, this stage presents the perfect moment for the cedar to emerge – resulting in an even drier aura. During the drydown, a dark woody spiciness ensues, but the sharp herbaceous properties of the lavender are occasionally discernible from time to time.

Out of all of Roberto Dario's creations, Spicy Lavender is probably his most masculine to date. However, even though one finds it intriguing, one is unable to fully appreciate some of the intentional rough edges. But, overall, it's an interesting woody rendition of lavender that's worth looking into.

Sillage is low, with longevity of close to three hours.