So Amber by Montale

*****

Year: 2016

Notes: raspberry, Iranian saffron, Moroccan rose, vanilla, sandalwood, ambergris, white musk

So Amber is a raspy and somewhat synthetic fruity rose concoction, mostly recalling past Montale rose-based offerings, such as Rose Night and Roses Musk.

With a hint of vanilla and saffron, as well as a soft woody-musk base, its name is just as misleading as Amber & Spices. In other words, don't go expecting a bona fide amber oriental fragrance (or even one remotely like it). And while ambergris is listed, that's still no justification for using the word 'amber' (especially when the alleged ambergris smells more like ambroxan).

Cheap-smelling in its general demeanour, both sillage and lasting power are extremely underwhelming.

Oudmazing by Montale

*****

Year: 2016

Notes: Sicilian bergamot and orange, pink grape, pear, fig, Egyptian jasmine, orris from Tuscany, Madagascan vanilla, Sumatran patchouli, Malaysian oud, leather, white musk

At first, Oudmazing sounded like an unusual, yet promising, Montale oud. However, although relatively brighter and greener, Oudmazing smells very much like a lighter and fruitier version of Red Aoud.

Instead of Red Aoud's slew of spices, Oudmazing has substituted these with an array of succulent fruits, which yield a somewhat green fruitiness. With the oud just as obscured as in Red Aoud, Oudmazing initially confines the iris to the background, allowing both the leather and wafer-smelling patchouli to fill the void.

As for the jasmine, when combined with the vanilla, it adds a creamy floral dimension to Oudmazing, whereas Red Aoud's rose (when combined with the sweet spices) is more jam-like. Ultimately, although there are some distinct differences, their general aromas are similar enough for olfactory parallels to be drawn.

Drawing to a faint woody-iris close, Oudmazing lacks the projection and tenacity of Red Aoud, but still persists on the skin reasonably well. With that said, Oudmazing would probably appeal greatly to those who found Red Aoud too overbearing (as well as avid Montale enthusiasts, of course).

Aoud Lagoon by Montale

*****

Year: 2016

Notes: Sicilian mandarin, lotus, osmanthus, tiaré, oud, Paraguayan guaiac wood, Haitian vetiver, oakmoss

After an abrasive opening of alcohol and something marine-like, Aoud Lagoon soon settles to reveal a tropical floral bouquet, with honeyed apricot subtleties from the osmanthus. With a soft woody foundation, one doesn't discern much oud in the composition but, with the exception of the vetiver, the woody notes are very difficult to distinguish from one another.

Overall, it's not too sweet and leans more on the feminine side. With conservative projection and below average longevity, it's a plausible tropical-themed creation. The only thing that prevents it from being perceived as run-of-the-mill designer-esque swill is the vivid presence of the osmanthus.

Tropical Wood by Montale

*****

Year: 2016

Notes: bergamot, pineapple, passion fruit, violet, Bulgarian rose, Malaysian oud, leather, Madagascan vanilla, white musk

Tropical Wood is a somewhat pleasant tropical woody fragrance, crammed with an array of accords that work rather well together.

Beginning with a tropical fruit punch explosion, the top notes are sweet but not too cloying. The jammy florals are discreet but serve more as a bridge for the emerging vanilla. Resting on a predictably clean musk base, the composition possesses a soft leathery underscore. As for the oud, a woody aspect is certainly apparent but it plays more of a supporting role. And when the drydown approaches, all the notes gracefully meld together with fruity traces still clearly evident.

While it's nothing outstanding, Tropical Wood could nevertheless be considered a worthy addition to Montale's oeuvre. Providing moderate sillage, one would have preferred better tenacity. Regardless of this, as well as the fact that it's not to one's personal tastes, it still comes warmly recommended.

Spicy Aoud / Aoud Spicy Musk by Montale

*****

Year: 2015

Notes: orange, saffron, patchouli, oud, musk

Spicy Aoud is yet another derivative Montale oud creation, particularly to those knowledgeable of past releases from this niche house.

In a nutshell, Spicy Aoud is Original Aouds fused with a generous serving of saffron and some white musk. The patchouli is apparent but mainly serves to add a dark earthy dimension to the woody-musk proceedings. As for the orange top note, it's more obscured by the astringent saffron and, thus, comes across as fleeting. One also detects occasional tobacco and rose facets throughout its development.

With below average longevity and projection, it would appeal to those looking for a relatively straight-up Montale oud. However, there's nothing new here that either Montale or other houses haven't already explored.

Sweet Vanilla by Montale

*****

Year: 2015

Notes: apricot, vanilla, white musk

With very few notes listed, one didn't have high expectations for Sweet Vanilla. After sampling it, one's opinion hasn't really changed that much.

Although it's a pleasant and competent vanilla, with light caramel flourishes, Sweet Vanilla is simply a variation of Vanille Absolu – in other words, vanilla interwoven with apricot nuances (with Vanille Absolu's discreet woody base substituted for some white musk). While not quite as rich and full-bodied as Vanille Absolu, Sweet Vanilla still provides moderate sillage and good staying power.

Disregarding the subtle apricot accord, Sweet Vanilla isn't distinctive enough and owning both of these Montale creations could be seen as pointless. Nevertheless, those looking for a slightly fruitier version of Vanille Absolu may find Sweet Vanilla a worthwhile candidate.

Pink Extasy by Montale

*****

Year: 2014

Notes: Cuban orange and tangerine, raspberry, peach, black pepper, orange blossom, Turkish rose, Egyptian jasmine, orris, vanilla, white musk

Another fun and overtly feminine Montale fruity-floral, another sweet and synthetic-smelling concoction...

Housed in a shiny pink aluminium bottle, Pink Extasy smells like a generic department store fragrance. With a reasonable level of endurance on the skin, the entire product is both derivative and extremely tacky.

Thanks, but no thanks.

Highness Rose by Montale

*****

Year: 2009

Notes: rose

Comment: parfum extrait review

Originally part of the Confidential Collection, Highness Rose is a rose soliflore made from rose absolute.

Largely spearheaded by some Bulgarian rose, other varieties of natural rose extracts have probably been added to provide a deeper rose experience. The overall aroma is relatively waxy, with fresh and dewy embellishments, and occasional verdant spicy nuances. Whether anything has been added to the base, such as light woods or white musk, is very much a grey area.

From beginning to end, it smells like a pure and unadulterated rose offering with no added sweetness. However, while it's a faithful rendition of rose, its general performance on the skin isn't much better than that of a decent quality rose extract – in other words, moderate sillage and below average staying power.

All in all, it's a respectable but somewhat redundant release.

Golden Sand by Montale

*****

Year: 2015

Notes: Calabrian bergamot and orange, mint, aromatic and green notes, clove, saffron, violet, rose, jasmine, Madagascan vanilla, amber, cedar, sandalwood, white musk

Golden Sand is classified as a spicy woody-oriental.

The first thing to greet one's nose is the saffron, which is slightly medicinal. It's only after a few moments that the citrus, mint and aromatic notes meekly emerge. As for any green notes, these are largely nondescript.

Shortly afterwards, a serving of clove briefly becomes discernible, before both the violet and rose fully surface to intermingle with the saffron. A creaminess eventually infiltrates the proceedings, courtesy of the jasmine, yet the composition never veers into overt floral territory. With a light touch of amber and vanilla, the cedar slowly engulfs the florals but allows the saffron a little extra time to breathe. With most of the initial components now faint, a woody-musk base ensues, with traces of amber and vanilla providing a subtle sweetness.

Now, although one finds it intriguing, one has a couple of reservations. Firstly, its development is too rapid and it doesn't allow for certain stages (or even accords) to be fully appreciated. And, secondly, its performance is quite pitiful – quickly becoming a mere whisper, after a pungent opening, and lasting less than four hours.

If it wasn't for these issues, one would have awarded it an extra star. Unfortunately, it performs on the skin like sand slipping through one's fingers.

Starry Nights by Montale

*****

Year: 2015

Notes: Calabrian bergamot, lemon, apple, Bulgarian rose, Egyptian jasmine, Sumatran patchouli, amber, powdery notes, white musk

Another Montale floral-oriental, another derivative floral release...

With obligatory citrus accords, a predictable rose and jasmine core, some patchouli and amber, and a powdery and clean musk base, the apple's fruity green presence throughout is the only aspect that makes it stand out. However, that alone isn't enough to salvage the composition from floral detergent mediocrity.

With respectable sillage and average staying power, it isn't as robust as Montale's older releases but still better (performance-wise) than a lot of this house's more recent offerings.

Honey Aoud by Montale

*****

Year: 2015

Notes: Sri Lankan cinnamon, flowers, honey, Sumatran patchouli, Madagascar vanilla, Laotian oud, leather, amber

After a fleeting animalic facet, Honey Aoud opens up to reveal a voluptuously sweet array of honey, cinnamon and florals.

The honey is extremely inviting, with a comforting warmth, while a generous serving of cinnamon enhances the gourmand introduction. As for the florals, they are pretty much indistinguishable but exude delicious cherry-like subtleties. As a result, the overall effect is balsamic, soft and mellow.

As it approaches the core, the patchouli and vanilla surface to provide a creamy woodiness to the proceedings. And as the top notes gradually subside, it slowly transforms into something darker and woodier (but noticeably restrained). And all the while, the honey accord still lingers in the background.

The oud and leather are kept to a bare minimum, so as not to compromise the composition's dulcified concept. Instead, some amber reinforces the now almost caramelised sweetness that gently pulsates. With the honey now having almost faded, during the drydown, the amber takes over and continues to interact with the demure leather and woods – with only musky woody-amber murmurs remaining some hours later.

Unlike Aoud Lavender, Montale has finally managed to completely steer away from the tired rose-oud pairing, and successfully produce something both new and unconventional. And while Honey Aoud isn't a powerhouse, and could have been a little more challenging (possibly with the addition of some beeswax), it's still probably the best Montale oud creation in recent years.

Whatever the reasons for this unexpected renaissance in this house's creativity, one certainly hopes that more substantially rewarding offerings are on the horizon.

Aoud Lavender by Montale

*****

Year: 2015

Notes: Calabrian bergamot and lemon, saffron, lavender, flowers, Sumatran patchouli, amber, oud, Mysore sandalwood, powdery notes, white musk

Aoud Lavender opens with an astringent citrus and lavender blast. The lavender isn't as floral as some lavender essential oils, yet exudes some of the green nuances of lavender absolute. Possessing both dry and aromatic properties, the top notes soon give way to the saffron and florals.

As the lavender subsides, a faint floral sweetness gracefully emerges. The woody aspect of the composition is discernible (especially the patchouli), as faint floral and aromatic traces continue to persist. And what started out as loud and quite abrasive quickly transforms into a soft floral oud scent. Towards the drydown, a little extra sweetness is derived from the amber, as the sandalwood provides a woody creaminess. And the final moments on the skin result in a powdery trail of woods, amber and musk.

After the seemingly never-ending regurgitation of rose-ouds, one gives Montale some credit for trying something new. However, it does have some shortcomings. Firstly, the lavender accord is too short-lived, and almost acts as a deceptive smokescreen for what is yet another woody-floral effort. And, secondly, its performance doesn't match up to the older Montales, with moderate diffusion and average lasting power.

But, regardless of these reservations, it's certainly one of the more interesting recent releases from this niche house.

Aoud Sense by Montale

*****

Year: 2015

Notes: Calabrian orange and mandarin, black pepper, clove, Bulgarian rose, oud, Haitian vetiver

Initially, one was quite dumbfounded, after sampling Aoud Sense for the very first time. Without a doubt, it has to be one of the poorest Montale efforts to date.

It's a very muddled composition, which smells rather synthetic and lacks any structural clarity. All the accords simply bleed into one another, utterly devoid of any finesse whatsoever. And while the rose, spices and vetiver are just about detectable, one is hard pressed to locate any oud within the vicinity.

Over the years, it's come to be expected that some of Montale's releases are nothing more than subpar fillers. Sadly, Aoud Sense is another example of this, with minimal sillage and below average staying power.

Orange Flowers by Montale

*****

Year: 2015

Notes: Sicilian lemon and mandarin, spices, orange blossom, ylang-ylang, jasmine, honey, Sumatran patchouli, vanilla, cedar, oakmoss, white musk

Commencing with a heady opening of succulent citruses, spices and orange blossom, Orange Flowers seems to be a second stab at perfecting the commercially unobtainable Fleur d'Oranger (according to Pierre Montale, the composition was deemed too much of a failure to be officially released).

While Orange Flowers is very similar to its original incarnation, it appears to be spicier, with a more intoxicating warmth from the combination of white florals and honey. A touch of vanilla adds a subdued creamy sweetness, while the woods remain unobtrusively in the background. With a brief powderiness towards the drydown, some patchouli, oakmoss and white musk are clearly evident in the base.

Overall, Orange Flowers is a smooth, lush and beguiling rendition of orange blossom that's more complex than Fleur d'Oranger. One also finds it more endearing than other neroli or orange blossom offerings on the market. If one hadn't sampled Fleur d'Oranger, one would have been none the wiser, and probably would have proclaimed Orange Flowers to be a return to form for this popular niche house. Sadly, this isn't the case, as it's simply an old formulation that's been tweaked and improved.

It's the first Montale fragrance that one can recommend in quite a while. And just like Fleur d'Oranger, Orange Flowers' projection is moderate but its longevity is very good.

Finally, a thumbs-up for Montale!

Intense Pepper by Montale

*****

Year: 2014

Notes: Sicilian lemon, Peruvian pink pepper, Madagascan black pepper, flowers, amber, Malaysian oud, cedar, oakmoss, white musk

Intense Pepper basically employs the clichéd masculine designer template of citrus, spices and woods, along the lines of Gucci's Gucci pour Homme.

Initially, the emphasis is placed on the freshly grounded pepper aspect, as these spices intermingle with some citrus. However, after a short while, it's mostly about the cedar, amber and what little oud has been added – all of which rests on an insubstantial bed of oakmoss and white musk.

While one wasn't expecting anything exceptional, it's still quite saddening to witness a once respectable niche house fall from grace. Sillage is weak and longevity is below average.

Aoud Samarkand by Montale

*****

Year: 2013

Notes: citrus, geranium, oud, labdanum, musk

Comment: Aoud Samarkand is an Arab Gulf states exclusive

Aoud Samarkand comes across as an aromatic aquatic, with a prominent white musk base.

The citruses are crystalline but the geranium never brings itself to the fore. As for the oud, when combined with the geranium, it imparts tobacco-like nuances. Also, a timid animalic sweetness is just about discernible, from the addition of some labdanum, but it's the metallic screechiness of the white musk that prevails.

Essentially, it's no better than designer sport releases of the same ilk, which isn't what one was expecting from such an exclusive release. With regards to performance, sillage is modest and longevity is about average.

Passable but inessential.

Mr. Aoud by Montale

*****

Year: 2013

Notes: lemon, citrus, black pepper, cinnamon, galbanum, violet, flowers, oud, labdanum, amber, vanilla, woods

Comment: Mr. Aoud is an Arab Gulf states exclusive

Mr. Aoud is an unremarkably soft oud creation, with a paradoxical feminine sweetness.

With a brisk citrus opening, the spices quickly meld with the florals. This stage is rather uplifting, yet one soon foresees a bland woody-oriental base on the horizon. Possessing a sweet resinous underlining, the oud is also surprisingly discreet.

All in all, it's a reasonable effort but that's not really saying much. Lasting power is below average.

Aoud Legacy by Montale

*****

Year: 2013

Notes: bergamot, lemon, pepper, nutmeg, saffron, oud, sandalwood, musk

Comment: Aoud Legacy is an Arab Gulf states exclusive

Over the years, Montale has issued many 'aromatic' scents, with the marine aspect being either full-on (Vetiver des Sables, Embruns d'Essaouira, Sandflowers and Fougères Marines) or subdued (Boisé Fruité, Black Musk, Aoud Forest and Santal Wood). Aoud Legacy is the latest addition to the latter.

Opening with a spicy-citrus blast, its 'aromatic' aura is subtle but still discernible. After the top notes dissipate, all that remains is a saffron-infused oud accord, with a soft aquatic nuance. However, performance-wise, there's a grave deficit in both tenacity and sillage, when compared to the Western Montales offerings.

While it's a pleasantly fresh woody-aromatic, it's no different to a fresh designer sport fragrance. In other words, generic and highly disposable.

Aoud Heritage by Montale

*****

Year: 2013

Notes: bergamot, orange, oud, patchouli, vetiver, vanilla, deer musk, ambergris

Comment: Aoud Heritage is an Arab Gulf states exclusive

With such an enticing array of notes, one was expecting Aoud Heritage to be a winner. But, alas, no.

Not only is the animalic musk overwhelmed by dark smoky woody accords, but everything about it smells very synthetic. Also, if it contains any real ambergris, it's pretty minuscule. When some vanilla eventually emerges, it only temporarily tampers the dry edginess of the oud.

After smelling some of the exclusives, one has to point out just how restrained they are, when compared to the Montales available outside of the Arab Gulf states, and Aoud Heritage is no exception.

Aoud Mayyas by Montale

*****

Year: 2013

Notes: orange, oud, cedar

Comment: Aoud Mayyas is an Arab Gulf states exclusive

With so few notes, one wasn't expecting much from Aoud Mayyas.

Regardless of the oud, it's more of a cedar (or is that Iso E Super?) based creation, with the oud only playing a supporting complementary role. The fleeting orange note doesn't reveal itself straight away but, when it does, it briefly exudes a pulpy sweetness.

Overall, it's mostly linear, provides minimal sillage and has really poor staying power. Compared to the Western Montales, it's severely lacking.