M by Puredistance

*****

Year: 2010

Notes: bergamot, lemon, cinnamon, rose, jasmine, cistus, vanilla, patchouli, vetiver, leather, moss, musk

Inspired by the leather interior of a classic Aston Martin, M is a leather-chypré that's also Puredistance's debut masculine creation. On this occasion, this Dutch luxury niche house worked with London-based perfumer Roja Dove, instead of Annie Buzantian. Whatever the reasons for the unexpected change, it turned out to be a very wise business decision.

Chiefly paying homage to Hermès' Bel Ami, M is both elegant and spicy, with a prominent moss-laden oriental foundation. Opening with citruses, cinnamon and florals, it isn't a charred or rugged leather effort, but one that's more about tanned leather in an affluent and sophisticated setting. Overall, it's suave, sensuous and hypnotic, with a sweet dandified aura that only briefly threatens its masculine temperament.

Its execution throughout is both stunning and harmonious. The jasmine and rose are perfectly proportioned, the dry spiciness imparts a dreamy exoticism, and the vanilla tactfully infuses a subdued creamy dustiness. As for the leather accord, it's supple but not to the extent of being mistaken for suede. With an occasional cumin-like emission, which one would attribute to the moss, its evolution is exquisitely smooth.

During the final stages, the spices soften and its general demeanour becomes darker, drier and more animalic (whilst not being overtly primal). There's also an ambery undercurrent present, which forever remains relegated to the background. Possessing ample earthy tones of patchouli, vetiver and moss, the base notes consolidate the composition's leather-chypré premise until the very end.

Highly reminiscent of the noble leather fragrances of yesteryear, M is a modern rendition that has successfully retained the essence of what made releases, such as Bel Ami, masculine classics. While that's quite a feat in today's climate of IFRA restrictions, its uncompromising nature should be applauded. Incorporating high-quality materials, it's masterfully composed, and exudes both a majestic and charismatic opulence.

With satisfactory projection, as well as excellent tenacity of more than ten hours, M is undoubtedly one of the best masculine releases of the last twenty years.

Versilia Vintage – Ambra Mediterranea by Profumi del Forte

*****

Year: 2009

Notes: orange, coriander, ylang-ylang, jasmine, vanilla, Siamese benzoin, patchouli, cedar, frankincense, Tolu balsam, ambergris, white musk

Comment: Ambra Mediterranea is part of the Versilia Vintage Collection

It's extremely rare for one to proclaim a fragrance in such a way, but Ambra Mediterranea is both an astounding and extraordinary feat in perfumery. Up until very recently, one had previously considered Montale's Blue Amber to be the reigning king of amber scents, but it has now been dethroned with such gob-smacking panache.

Simply put, Ambra Mediterranea is more complex than Blue Amber – but minus the soft earthy greenness from the geranium and vetiver, less vanillic, and with a greater presence of dry woody accords. Comprising of spices, honey sweet florals, and complementary balsams and resins, its multi-faceted tones are rich, warm, chocolaty, slightly smoky and undeniably sultry.

The cedar is evident but perfectly attuned, and the composition's resinous demeanour is reminiscent of Incense by Norma Kormali. But it's also the perfect amalgamation of other high-quality niche amber creations – echoing the leathery labdanum of Profumum's Ambra Aurea, the bewitching complexity of Maître Parfumeur et Gantier's Ambre Précieux and the resinous warm aura of Histoires de Parfums' Ambre 114. With exceptional longevity of at least 12 hours, no matter how judiciously applied, it's also impressively robust.

Suggesting a saline nuance, from the ambergris-infused drydown, it's a satisfying and absolutely flawless elixir. After wearing it several times, there's no doubt in one's mind that it's the crème de la crème of this genre and is worth every single penny.

It's an exuberant masterpiece and serves as a touchstone for other renditions of amber.

Sideris by Maria Candida Gentile

*****

Year: 2009

Notes: Corsican myrtle, white pepper, frankincense, saffron, Turkish rose, Ayrshire Splendens rose, cistus, Siamese benzoin, waxed woods, Javanese sandalwood

Comment: Sideris is part of the Classic Collection

"I smell the stars and the maquis of the Ligurian coast, while I am walking on a summer night between the sky and sea. I created this perfume with the last star of dawn in mind, inspired by a poem* by Cesare Pavese."

     ~ Maria Candida Gentile

Sideris is an amazing floral-oriental that seduces and beguiles with every wearing. It also encompasses certain qualities that most modern fragrances of this class fail to attain. With a profound and vivid floral richness, every single accord is masterfully interwoven into this extremely well-structured composition.

Commencing with some frankincense, the aromatic notes briskly introduce themselves before departing just as quickly, as an intoxicating amalgam of labdanum, saffron and rose surfaces. Both the clarity and fullness of the rose are astounding, as it forsakes the classic interpretation of such an accord and imbues a multifaceted and panoramic aroma instead. With a crimson honeyed sweetness consistently at the forefront, the benzoin adds a conservative jammy fruitiness that's slightly resinous.

Displaying a suave sandalwood and ambery drydown, it's a harmoniously powdery blend consisting of dark and sultry feminine nuances. Possessing excellent lasting power, its sillage is serene but still noticeable. Sideris is Maria's pièce de résistance, and one would even go so far as to view it as the photographic negative of Caron's Parfum Sacré (meaning less vanilla, spices and balsamic resins but with a more abundant serving of rose).

Simply put, it's a wonderfully pensive and romantic olfactory delight – further confirming that this up and coming niche house is definitely worth keeping an eye on.

* The poem referred to is entitled 'In The Morning You Always Come Back'.

Eau du Soir by Sisley

*****

Year: 1990

Notes: grapefruit, mandarin, pepper, juniper berry, spruce, lily of the valley, lilac, rose, carnation, ylang-ylang, Egyptian jasmine, iris, cistus, amber, patchouli, oakmoss, musk

Radiant with sophistication and elegance, Eau du Soir is both a luxurious and fresh modern chypré.

After a pungent and high-pitched spicy-citrus opening, moments pass before one concludes that the juniper is the star of the composition. Enveloped with citrus, spices and florals, the juniper provides a sparkling freshness that's also cold, aloof and yet undeniably charismatic.

Consisting of a foundation of cistus, amber, patchouli, oakmoss and musk, it exudes an undeniably regal air of confidence and decadence. The piquant citrus is surprisingly long-lasting, the florals are either discreet or more green than sweetly floral, and its distinctive green attributes never stray into herbaceous territory.

Possessing great lasting power, its projection is quite moderate in contrast – further cementing its graceful and well-mannered demeanour. Although it's marketed towards women, it's undoubtedly more unisex than feminine and still smells remarkably contemporary even after its original release, over twenty years ago.

It may be an expensive fragrance but it's worth every single penny, as it reeks of unbridled affluence in the best way possible. But don't be afraid – it's not as feminine as you might think.

L'Air du Désert Marocain by Tauer Perfumes

*****

Year: 2005

Notes: bergamot, lemon, petitgrain bigarade, coriander, cumin, Bourbon geranium, jasmine, rock rose, birch tar, cedar, vetiver, patchouli, vanilla, amber, oakmoss

Comment: L'Air du Désert Marocain is part of the Classics Collection

L'Air du Désert Marocain is an undeniably evocative creation, which successfully conveys the warm, exotic and contemplative characteristics of the Maghreb desert.

With a multi-faceted and paradoxical nature, it's both sweet and dry, resinous but also smooth, earthy and yet almost ethereal, and complex but very versatile. It starts off zesty, creamy and slightly herbaceous before the resinous, smoky and woody aspects rapidly grow in prominence. These mélange of accords are both exquisite and intoxicating, with superb blending that's remarkably seamless. Collectively, these notes weave a spicy and rich tapestry of sensual balsamic sweetness, constantly beguiling and flirting with one's olfactory senses.

With a subtle moist undercurrent, courtesy of a vetiver accord, its sillage is sufficient and yet not overpowering. However, its lasting power is very impressive (at least eight hours) and develops into a skin scent, which gently simmers on the skin over a lengthy period of time. As an Eau de Toilette Intense, one could also be forgiven for assuming its performance is more akin to a respectable Eau de Parfum.

L'Air du Désert Marocain is an astonishing oriental that's very Lutens-esque and is, to one's nose, superior to Serge Lutens' syrupy sweet rendition of the same theme, Chergui. It's nothing short of a modern masterpiece and still remains Andy Tauer's greatest olfactory achievement to date.

Arabie by Serge Lutens

*****

Year: 2000

Notes: candied mandarin peel, dates, dried figs, cumin, nutmeg, clove, myrrh, Siamese benzoin, tonka bean, cedar, balsamic resins, sandalwood

Comment: Vintage formulation review

When one first sampled Arabie, a few years ago as a niche fragrance novice, it wasn't very well-received. It was extremely tenacious, with a claustrophobic sweetness that was both overwhelming and over the top. But such qualities soon compelled one to revisit it by dabbing more on every so often.

After depleting half of the sample vial, it was unreluctantly given away as one still wasn't completely won over by its charms. However, as time went by, its memory continued to prevail within one's sub-consciousness. So, several months later, while investigating other fragrances in the stores, one unexpectedly felt the urge to give it another try. And then another. And then another...

The thing is, Arabie is a very tough nut to crack, and it requires more perseverance and patience than most of the challenging niche scents available on the market. As already mentioned, it wasn't easy falling in love with it – in fact it was almost a constant struggle. But now that perseverance has finally paid off, one is finally able to appreciate it for what it represents: a highly condensed and complex fruity-gourmand, comprising of spices and dried fruits stewed in a syrupy woody sweetness.

Although some may consider it to be too overbearing, one personally considers it to be just as versatile as any other revered scent, especially once that moment of revelation comes (if it ever does). Also, its resinous nature enables it to be worn effectively well during the warmer months – it may be very sweet but don't let that fool you into thinking it's strictly a cold weather scent.

Yes, it does smell like a spicy fruitcake and, yes, its pungent and dark fruitiness does strangely remind one of Christmas. However, if nothing else, its exotic demeanour is highly evocative of sweet North African and Middle Eastern delicacies. Arabie is brash, blatantly unapologetic and totally unconventional, and still remains Serge Lutens' best olfactory creation.

Black Aoud by Montale

*****

Year: 2005

Notes: mandarin, rose, Cambodian oud, Indonesian patchouli, labdanum, sandalwood, musk

A lot has been said about Black Aoud, over the years, and it's certainly one fragrance that took plenty of time for one to understand and fully appreciate.

To those who have no experience of wearing oud, it would be advisable to sample and evaluate Black Aoud at least half-a-dozen times before reaching any conclusions. The difference between Western and Middle Eastern perfumery is immense and, therefore, one should allow adequate time for personal olfactory re-conditioning, as the potential reward for such perseverance is definitely worthwhile (if at all).

Going back to the actual scent itself, it's a lush, compelling and somewhat gothic woody-rose fragrance, with a high-pitched and medicinal Cambodian oud opening. The mandarin adds an extra luminescent edge, while an emerging bouquet of moist, dark and velvety roses mingle with a sultry and earthy base of patchouli, labdanum and sandalwood.

Although the oud eventually calms down, it never completely dissipates. Furthermore, while the rose is clearly highlighted, the overall depth of the dense woody undertones is never compromised. With regards to longevity, while it's certainly tenacious, its projection is not particularly nuclear but still rather noticeable.

Black Aoud once provided an insightful introduction into Middle Eastern perfumery and it's something that one is truly grateful for. Even though Montale has released many oud compositions since its launch, it still remains the best creation in Montale's oud line.

Patchouly by Profumum

*****

Year: 2004

Notes: frankincense, patchouli, amber, sandalwood

Profumum's Patchouly is a very potent fragrance, which successfully raises the bar for other patchouli offerings to surpass. Its opening is one that's both boozy and mentholated, before allowing the amber to accompany the composition closer to gourmand territory. It's not a clean or polite patchouli by any means but raw, dark, earthy and dense, with a touch of frankincense providing a resinous edge.

At first, its aroma is quite overwhelming. But, after a certain period of time, it settles down significantly to reveal a powdery, bitter and slightly musty drydown. As for the sandalwood, its presence is somewhat obscured but still remains vaguely discernible. Sadly, the muted drydown fails to live up to the promise of its rich and heady entrance but this is only a minor complaint.

With exceptional longevity and satisfying projection, it's an impressive release that successfully strives to offer more substance than its peers. It's not completely flawless but, as a hardcore patchouli scent, it's probably the closest thing to patchouli perfection.

Vanitas by Profumum

*****

Year: 2008

Notes: orange blossom, vanilla, myrrh, sandalwood

Vanitas is, hands down, the best release by Profumum so far. It's not a completely original rendition of vanilla, but it's the most satisfying straightforward vanilla fragrance one has yet encountered.

It was once hoped that Un Bois Vanille by Serge Lutens would be the perfect candidate for this genre, but the irritating coconut and caramelised burnt sugar accords ruined one's enjoyment of it (and it also didn't possess impressive longevity). Thankfully, Vanitas has managed to fully address all these negative aspects and actually improve on this olfactory concept with flying colours.

Like Un Bois Vanille, Vanitas is mostly a linear scent but the rich vanilla is perfectly balanced. Also, instead of the aforementioned undesirable notes in Un Bois Vanille, accords of myrrh and orange blossom are employed. As for the base, hints of sandalwood are discernible during its vanillic drydown.

Its tenacity is amazing with nuclear projection and, while the price may be too prohibitive for some, there would hardly be any need to consider a back-up bottle since 100ml would last several years.

In summary, Vanitas is an excellent vanilla creation that should be duly praised.

Blue Amber by Montale

*****

Year: 2006

Notes: Italian bergamot, coriander, Bourbon geranium, vetiver, patchouli, amber, vanilla

With astringent top notes, smelling like either plastic or glue, this olfactory assault promptly becomes a distant memory with subsequent wearings. But after the initial discord subsides, Blue Amber transcends into the most exceedingly rich and buttery amber fragrance.

Being deceptively linear, the quality of the amber is simply astounding, with accords of coriander, patchouli and vetiver providing a solid foundation for the sweet amber to truly emanate. Graced with some powdery vanilla, the end result is a warm, delicious and enveloping aroma that's utterly intoxicating.

In contrast to other niche amber renditions, it's not as one-dimensional as Tom Ford's Amber Absolute, nor is it as syrupy sweet as Hermès' Hermèssence Ambre Narguilé, also it isn't compromised by notes that make both Serge Lutens' herbaceous Ambre Sultan and Parfum d'Empire's boozy Ambre Russe quite a challenge to wear. Furthermore, it's far more substantial than Annick Goutal's Ambre Fétiche and isn't as mannerly as L'Artisan's L'Eau d'Ambre. In fact, its closest rivals are most probably Maître Parfumeur et Gantier's Ambre Précieux and Histoires de Parfums' Ambre 114.

Blue Amber is both full-bodied and slightly resinous, with adequate projection and excellent staying power. Not only is it an exceptional amber offering but it's also one of Montale's finest creations.

Sweet Oriental Dream by Montale

*****

Year: unknown

Notes: centifolia rose, loukhoum (honey, rose water, sugar, fruit, jam, nuts), vanilla, almond

Sweet Oriental Dream is the most satisfying loukhoum interpretation that one has ever encountered. Yes, it's ridiculously sweet at first but the sweetness gradually settles, as it develops towards a very sensual gourmand drydown. A subtle weaving of cherry pipe tobacco is also discernible, throughout its mostly linear development, and the almond is well-behaved enough not to venture into Play-Doh territory.

It isn't quite as powdery as Keiko Mecheri's Loukhoum but it's certainly more natural-smelling than The People Of The Labyrinths' Luctor et Emergo. With regards to Serge Lutens' Rahät Loukoum, the almond accord is less prominent but Sweet Oriental Dream provides far superior lasting power. Actually, it's probably one of Montale's most tenacious offerings, with longevity of at least 12 hours.

As with other loukhoums, it could be perceived as excessively feminine for many men to comfortably wear and enjoy. Personally, any open-minded male (especially those comfortable with their sexuality) should find Sweet Oriental Dream a delicious and intoxicating blend most worthy of some consideration (if nothing else). After all, it's often stated that variety is the spice of life.

With that said, it easily ranks among one's personal top five Montale non-oud releases.