M by Puredistance

*****
Year: 2010

Notes: bergamot, lemon, cinnamon, rose, jasmine, cistus, vanilla, patchouli, vetiver, leather, moss, musk
Inspired by the leather interior of a classic Aston Martin, M is a leather-chypré that's also Puredistance's debut masculine creation. On this occasion, this Dutch luxury niche house worked with London-based perfumer Roja Dove, instead of Annie Buzantian. Whatever the reasons for the unexpected change, it turned out to be a very wise business decision.

Chiefly paying homage to Hermès' Bel Ami, M is both elegant and spicy, with a prominent moss-laden oriental foundation. Opening with citruses, cinnamon and florals, it isn't a charred or rugged leather effort, but one that's more about tanned leather in an affluent and sophisticated setting. Overall, it's suave, sensuous and hypnotic, with a sweet dandified aura that only briefly threatens its masculine temperament.

Its execution throughout is both stunning and harmonious. The jasmine and rose are perfectly proportioned, the dry spiciness imparts a dreamy exoticism, and the vanilla tactfully infuses a subdued creamy dustiness. As for the leather accord, it's supple but not to the extent of being mistaken for suede. With an occasional cumin-like emission, which one would attribute to the moss, its evolution is exquisitely smooth.

During the final stages, the spices soften and its general demeanour becomes darker, drier and more animalic (whilst not being overtly primal). There's also an ambery undercurrent present, which forever remains relegated to the background. Possessing ample earthy tones of patchouli, vetiver and moss, the base notes consolidate the composition's leather-chypré premise until the very end.

Highly reminiscent of the noble leather fragrances of yesteryear, M is a modern rendition that has successfully retained the essence of what made releases, such as Bel Ami, masculine classics. While that's quite a feat in today's climate of IFRA restrictions, its uncompromising nature should be applauded. Incorporating high-quality materials, it's masterfully composed, and exudes both a majestic and charismatic opulence.

With satisfactory projection, as well as excellent tenacity of more than ten hours, M is undoubtedly one of the best masculine releases of the last twenty years.


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