Versilia Vintage – Ambra Mediterranea by Profumi del Forte

*****
Year: 2009

Notes: orange, coriander, ylang-ylang, jasmine, vanilla, Siamese benzoin, patchouli, cedar, frankincense, Tolu balsam, ambergris, white musk

Comment: Ambra Mediterranea is part of the Versilia Vintage Collection

It's extremely rare for one to proclaim a fragrance in such a way, but Ambra Mediterranea is both an astounding and extraordinary feat in perfumery. Up until very recently, one had previously considered Montale's Blue Amber to be the reigning king of amber scents, but it has now been dethroned with such gob-smacking panache.

Simply put, Ambra Mediterranea is more complex than Blue Amber – but minus the soft earthy greenness from the geranium and vetiver, less vanillic, and with a greater presence of dry woody accords. Comprising of spices, honey sweet florals, and complementary balsams and resins, its multi-faceted tones are rich, warm, chocolaty, slightly smoky and undeniably sultry.

The cedar is evident but perfectly attuned, and the composition's resinous demeanour is reminiscent of Incense by Norma Kormali. But it's also the perfect amalgamation of other high-quality niche amber creations – echoing the leathery labdanum of Profumum's Ambra Aurea, the bewitching complexity of Maître Parfumeur et Gantier's Ambre Précieux and the resinous warm aura of Histoires de Parfums' Ambre 114. With exceptional longevity of at least 12 hours, no matter how judiciously applied, it's also impressively robust.

Suggesting a saline nuance, from the ambergris-infused drydown, it's a satisfying and absolutely flawless elixir. After wearing it several times, there's no doubt in one's mind that it's the crème de la crème of this genre and is worth every single penny.

It's an exuberant masterpiece and serves as a touchstone for other renditions of amber.


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