Norne by Slumberhouse

*****
Year: 2012

Notes: allspice, fern, hemlock, pine needles, fir balsam, frankincense, lichen, moss

Comment: Eau de Parfum review
Consisting of 100% pure forest absolutes and nothing more, one has to applaud Josh Lobb for composing such an original and bold creation. With an increasing lack of satisfying coniferous-green fragrances being released, the announcement of Norne was most certainly welcome.

Contrary to popular belief, the inspiration behind the composition actually comes from Josh Lobb's appreciation of black metal (a Scandinavian sub-genre of extreme heavy metal music), paired with the sprawling woodlands of this part of the world. Interestingly enough, the name itself confirms a very strong Scandinavian influence, as Norne is also the name of an oil field, located in the Norwegian Sea.

Norne largely consists of an impressive trio of evergreen coniferous accords (fir, pine and hemlock) set against some spices, frankincense and moss. Rich in coniferous resins, the juice is a blackish-green, with a near oily consistency – aspects that not only complement Josh's personal sources of inspiration but also its petroleum-associated name.

The opening is rich, sweet, dark and resinous, with an extremely profound coniferous aroma. Both the allspice and frankincense remain low-key but are still identifiable, while dank and slightly bitter nuances regularly weave throughout the proceedings. However, things start to go awry during the sappy mid notes...

Although it starts out rather strong, it soon lowers its volume considerably. Also, it gradually becomes sweeter and lighter in its general tone. This sweetness (probably due to the fir balsam) soon overwhelms – leaving one wishing that it had developed into something more virile, with a more striking forest undergrowth slant to it. By the drydown, not even the lichen and moss are enough to salvage it from a sweet resinous demise.

Like the odd release from this house, Norne has genuine potential but there are some pressing issues. It's not as complex as it could have been, the frankincense isn't prominent enough, there are hardly any dirty or smoky facets evident, and it's more syrupy sweet than a coniferous woody-green.

With moderate projection and below average lasting power, it sadly promises more than it actually delivers. But one still respects Norne for its initially rich coniferous introduction.


*****
Year: 2013

Notes: allspice, fern, hemlock, pine needles, fir balsam, frankincense, lichen, moss

Comment: Parfum extrait review
Not only is the Norne extrait severely lacking in sillage, its performance is also lifeless on the skin.

Most of the accords are still present but Josh has had the bright idea of injecting a stronger moss base, while either toning down or overwhelming the coniferous aspects. While the parfum extrait is slightly less sweet, it's also murkier, not blended particularly well and fails to address any of the Eau de Parfum's shortcomings.

While Josh seems intent on toning down the reformulated extraits, they are noticeably inferior as a result.


Disclaimer: Since some Slumberhouse releases are always being 'improved', and with various formulations of the same fragrance in existence, this review is based on the sample(s) received. Due to the lack of information about these reformulations, one is unable to confirm the actual formulation(s) that has/have been reviewed. As a result, your experience of this fragrance may greatly differ. Understandably, it's all very confusing.


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