Year: 2013
Notes: cranberry, cherry, plum, wine ether, fir, champaca, pink lotus, gromwell, cocoa, benzoin, trisamber, oak, frankincense, Mitti Attar, Tolu balsam, Mysore sandalwood
Comment: Zahd is a limited edition release
After two years and around 80 prototypes, Zahd is the latest Slumberhouse parfum extrait, which is based on a "fairly rare" cranberry absolute. Possessing a deep ruby red colour and a 30% concentration, one was naturally curious about all the fever pitch hype that accompanied it.
As to be expected, it smells syrupy, boozy, fruity, resinous, dense and pungent. On the opening, it emanates a sweet liqueur aroma, alongside a prominent dark cocoa note (that's briefly supplemented by a somewhat salty nuance). The ripe fruitiness initially verges very close to bubblegum territory, possibly due to the champaca, but the cocoa soon diffuses the situation. With a jammy composite of cranberry, plum and cherry, its tone changes as it approaches the heart.
The brash fruity booziness is gradually tempered by a burnt wood accord. It's noticeably scratchy and, together with the oak and sandalwood, forms the woody aspect of the composition. According to Slumberhouse founder, Josh Lobb, Zahd is about 85% natural. Among the synthetics used is trisamber, which possesses dark and dry woody-amber properties. Therefore, one would attribute the burnt woody element to this aroma chemical.
Over time, the parched woodiness intensifies, with gentle whiffs of frankincense occasionally greeting the nose. By the drydown, the fruity cordial slowly surrenders its dominance to the trisamber, accompanied by an earthy yet creamy underscoring of sandalwood and Mitti Attar. Faint traces of the fermented fruits continue to persist, but the woody ambery smokiness of the trisamber continues to reign supreme. It's only several hours later that fading glimmers of trisamber, sandalwood and Tolu balsam are all that remain.
While credit is given for originality, especially with the cranberry, Zahd isn't without its flaws. The bitter facets of the cranberry are drowned out by a sea of sweetness, the choice of florals does more harm than good, the oak is particularly subdued, and the artificial woody-amber element is both clichéd and irritating. Maybe, sometime in the near future, one of Josh's newer offerings will be just as satisfying as Vikt... but Zahd isn't it.
Projection is below average and tenacity is in excess of six hours.
As to be expected, it smells syrupy, boozy, fruity, resinous, dense and pungent. On the opening, it emanates a sweet liqueur aroma, alongside a prominent dark cocoa note (that's briefly supplemented by a somewhat salty nuance). The ripe fruitiness initially verges very close to bubblegum territory, possibly due to the champaca, but the cocoa soon diffuses the situation. With a jammy composite of cranberry, plum and cherry, its tone changes as it approaches the heart.
The brash fruity booziness is gradually tempered by a burnt wood accord. It's noticeably scratchy and, together with the oak and sandalwood, forms the woody aspect of the composition. According to Slumberhouse founder, Josh Lobb, Zahd is about 85% natural. Among the synthetics used is trisamber, which possesses dark and dry woody-amber properties. Therefore, one would attribute the burnt woody element to this aroma chemical.
Over time, the parched woodiness intensifies, with gentle whiffs of frankincense occasionally greeting the nose. By the drydown, the fruity cordial slowly surrenders its dominance to the trisamber, accompanied by an earthy yet creamy underscoring of sandalwood and Mitti Attar. Faint traces of the fermented fruits continue to persist, but the woody ambery smokiness of the trisamber continues to reign supreme. It's only several hours later that fading glimmers of trisamber, sandalwood and Tolu balsam are all that remain.
While credit is given for originality, especially with the cranberry, Zahd isn't without its flaws. The bitter facets of the cranberry are drowned out by a sea of sweetness, the choice of florals does more harm than good, the oak is particularly subdued, and the artificial woody-amber element is both clichéd and irritating. Maybe, sometime in the near future, one of Josh's newer offerings will be just as satisfying as Vikt... but Zahd isn't it.
Projection is below average and tenacity is in excess of six hours.
* A special thanks goes out to Lyn for making this review possible.
Disclaimer: Since some Slumberhouse releases are always being 'improved', and with various formulations of the same fragrance in existence, this review is based on the sample(s) received. Due to the lack of information about these reformulations, one is unable to confirm the actual formulation(s) that has/have been reviewed. As a result, your experience of this fragrance may greatly differ. Understandably, it's all very confusing.
