Iris / Il Vs Iris by Hilde Soliani Profumi

*****
Year: 2004

Notes: green pepper, lily of the valley, mimosa, jasmine, orris, almond, sandalwood, white musk

Comment: Iris is part of the Ti Amo Collection

The Ti Amo ('I love you' in Italian) collection was the debut fragrance collection by Italian perfumer Hilde Soliani. It comprises of five fragrances, with 'TI AMO' being an acronym that represents the first letter of each of the five releases (all of which are the Italian names of particular flowers):

T = Tulipano
I = Iris
A = Anemone
M = Margherita
O = Ortensia

In addition, the flowers listed above weren't randomly selected, as each one encapsulates a cherished emotion or memory. Iris (later rechristened Il Vs Iris) represents Italian elegance.

Contrary to the name, the iris actually plays a minor role. With an almost bitter marzipan or almond opening, a piercing lipstick aroma protrudes before the orris emerges. Unlike other releases centred on this note, the orris isn't rooty, earthy or metallic but its carrot-like attribute is still discernible to a certain extent.

While never too sweet, it becomes powdery during the drydown, with a possible serving of some heliotrope. It's soft and comforting, disregarding its astringent disposition, but still disappointing for what it originally promised. With good sillage and below average tenacity, there are other superior alternatives readily available.

Personally, it's only worth recommending to fans of marzipan, almond or heliotrope than to lovers of iris.


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