Rozy by Vero Profumo

*****
Year: 2014

Notes: melon, blackcurrant buds, coriander seeds, nutmeg, blackcurrant leaves, rose, tuberose, vanilla, labdanum, styrax, honey, sandalwood

Comment: Voile d`Extrait review
With Vero Profumo's fifth release, Rozy comes across as the older sister of Rubj. It's still a rich floral effort but drier, more complex and somewhat elegant.

After application, an array of spices soon temper the fruity opening, before allowing the florals to surface. With labdanum, styrax and honey featured, one gets a distinct leathery or smoky incense aura later throughout – so much that, within the context of the tuberose core, the aroma is reminiscent of champaca incense sticks. The honey lends a subtle animalic facet, but also provides the perfect foil for the emergence of sandalwood.

Rozy isn't as bold as Rubj but one enjoys the structure of the former much more. It's also a more subdued and contemplative effort, with a lovely sandalwood denouement. And although both staying power and sillage aren't as impressive as one was expecting, it's still very well-executed.


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Mito by Vero Profumo

*****
Year: 2013

Notes: citrus, peach, cypress, galbanum, hyacinth, white magnolia, magnolia grandiflora, champaca, jasmine, tuberose, labdanum, moss, musk

Comment: Voile d`Extrait review
Mito is Vero Profumo's fourth olfactory offering, inspired by the 16th and 17th century gardens of Villa d'Este, in Tivoli, Italy.

Based on the green floral-chyprés of yesteryear, such as Chanel's Cristalle and No.19, Christian Dior's Diorella, and Balmain's Vent Vert, Mito serves as a faithful tribute to this nearly-extinct scent family. It's sweet, lush and angular, with citrus-infused peppery-green top notes. The peach is ripe and succulent, providing a fruity warmth and depth, and the galbanum and cypress aren't afraid of exhibiting their sharp, dry and verdant properties.

As it approaches the mid notes, what soon follows is an armada of florals, with the magnolia and jasmine being particularly discernible. By this stage, grassy traces from the opening still remain, but the moss base ensures that the green premise is maintained. With a mossy saltiness permeating throughout the floral sweetness, the composition gradually becomes earthier over time.

But it's only after the floral sweetness has largely faded that one detects an Onda-esque base (even though no vetiver is listed). And while what went on before was beautiful and alluring, by this point, Mito is now too similar to the drydown of Onda. Personally, one would have preferred a more unique drydown instead.

As it stands, Mito is still a respectable creation and every bit as good as Onda. However, insubstantial staying power still seems to be an issue with this house, although its sillage is moderate. With so many reservations, one is unable to unconditionally praise it but it still comes recommended.


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Caffe delle Vergini by Hilde Soliani Profumi

*****
Year: 2013

Notes: coffee, ink, two types of vetiver
Going by the listed notes, one was expecting Caffe delle Vergini (allegedly the name of the first Italian bar that women could enter) to be something special. Unfortunately, this woody-aromatic is very much a let down.

Opening with a dry and (disappointingly) fleeting coffee accord, the ink acts as a faint segue between the two main components (an olfactory idea already explored by Lalique's Encre Noire). However, one is hard-pressed to detect the two types of vetiver, let alone their complex woody properties, and instead senses that the vetiver used is possibly a highly rectified vetiveryl acetate.

With a mild aqueous leaning, as opposed to an earthy one, it continues to evolve in a way that confounds one's original expectations, while exuding a sweet floral cleanness. It's only when the composition approaches the drydown that one can't help discerning certain olfactory parallels between Caffe delle Vergini and Gendarme's Gendarme.

As it stands, Caffe delle Vergini fails to fully exploit its touted vetiver premise and, instead, comes off as some coffee-infused Gendarme flanker. Based on the fact that one anticipated a lot more, especially with regards to the vetiver aspect, it simply fails to deliver.

Longevity and projection are both respectable.


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Bosschiisssimo by Hilde Soliani Profumi

*****
Year: 2013

Notes: bergamot, eucalyptus, Canadian pine, Siberian pine, moss

Comment: Bosschiisssimo is part of the Profumo e Gusto in Libertà Collection
During a dinner at El Molino restaurant, in the ski resort of Cavalese, chef Alessandro Gilmozzi presented Hilde with a special dessert, called Essence. Tasting it brought back personal memories of walks taken through pine forests, as well as walking barefoot in the woods during summer. Bosschiisssimo encapsulates these personal experiences.

Opening with a menthol-tinged bergamot opening, the coniferous accords quickly present themselves, emitting fresh, verdant and slightly woody properties. Some moss lurks beneath the surface but it intensifies over time. As the composition evolves, its tone becomes darker and earthier.

The green coniferous aspect gradually fades, as a more notable woodiness replaces it. Sadly, it turns out to be an underhanded serving of cedar. With hopes of a substantial moss base now dashed, any personal interest in the remainder of the drydown comes to a grinding halt.

Just like Fighisssimo, Bosschiisssimo is a woody-green effort that's greatly marred by poor tenacity, as well as the unexpected inclusion of cedar. Had things been very different, a bottle might have been on the horizon.


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Fighisssimo by Hilde Soliani Profumi

*****
Year: 2013

Notes: fig leaves, black fig, fig wood

Comment: Fighisssimo is part of the Profumo e Gusto in Libertà Collection
Fighisssimo is based on the three olfactory properties of a fig tree - the leafy greenness, the ripe fruitiness and the petioled milkiness.

Its development is quite rapid – opening with a citrus-infused verdant aroma, quickly followed by a succulent fig accord, and then winding down with a quiet milky and woody fig aspect. As all three stages overlap each other, it's pretty compelling to observe and smells remarkably natural.

Unfortunately, it's largely over within a matter of minutes, leaving only gentle creamy fig wood traces with a faint fig sappiness. One also discerns a notable vanillic accent during the latter stages of the drydown.

It's such a pity as, if it was more potent and tenacious, one would have deemed it as the best fig fragrance one has encountered so far.


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Loggione by Hilde Soliani Profumi

*****
Year: 2014

Notes: grapefruit, melon, strawberry, blueberry, peach, apricot, mint, juniper berry

Comment: Loggione is part of the Teatro Olfattivo Parma 08 Collection
Dedicated to the diverse mixture of opera fans, who attend the Teatro Regio di Parma, Loggione is practically a fruit cocktail creation.

Upon the fruity opening, there's very little mint but an underlining of juniper can be detected. As the sweetness subsides, the juniper comes more to the fore and adds a subdued earthy woodiness. Although the composition darkens somewhat in tone, there's virtually no further development beyond this point.

Being very feminine in its general demeanour, and with moderate staying power, one would only recommend it to lovers of syrupy fruity offerings.

Fruit punch, anyone?


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Crema di Latte by Hilde Soliani Profumi

*****
Year: 2012

Notes: milk, sugar, vanilla

Comment: Crema di Latte is part of the Teatro Olfattivo Parma 08 Collection
Based on the Sicilian pastry-filling, primarily consisting of milk, sugar, eggs, vanilla, cinnamon and lemon zest, Crema di Latte is potentially a gourmand lover's wet dream.

It's intensely lactonic, with an exceedingly rich blend of full-fat cream, vanilla essence and caramel. The syrupy opening is very similar to sweetened condensed milk, before a buttery eggnog mid-stage presents itself. When it finally settles down, it smells closer to hot milk with a light serving of spices.

While one applauds Hilde Soliani for the composition, it's not endearing enough to be worn on a daily basis (let alone owning 100ml). Furthermore, even though its excessive sweetness makes a statement, its lasting power and sillage both fail to do the same.


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Il Tuo Tulipano Giallo by Hilde Soliani Profumi

*****
Year: 2012

Notes: Calabrian bergamot, rosemary, basil, thyme
Touted as a continuation from Tulipano / Il Tuo Tulipano, Il Tuo Tulipano Giallo has been conceived as a modern Eau de Cologne but in Eau de Parfum concentration.

Stripped down to the bone, it's a fresh and straightforward take on its predecessor. The bergamot's buoyancy is lifted by the rosemary and the herbs provide a green facet. A suggestive floral-musk foundation is also apparent but, overall, there really isn't much beyond that.

With moderate sillage and below average lasting power, it could have been a little more bracing, interesting and longer lasting.


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Living Lavender by Esperienze Olfattive

*****
Year: 2014

Notes: grapefruit, lemon, lime, bitter orange, lavandin, lavender, tonka bean
Living Lavender is a deliciously sweet citrus creation, where the name is somewhat of a misnomer.

The citrus introduction is both deliriously candied and powdery, and is redolent of sherbet lemon boiled sweets. The grapefruit intensifies the lemon's acerbic properties, while both the orange and lime merely serve to provide an extra citric dimension. And just like the confection, the olfactory effect is excessively sweet, full-bodied and extremely tantalising.

As it progresses towards the mid notes, the lavandin and lavender coupling gradually emerge, in the midst of a lemon-induced sugar frosted haze. The tonka bean, which was already evident from the offset, slowly increases its stature while the citrus accords begin to recede. It's at this point that one is briefly reminded of Profumum's Dulcis in Fundo and, later on to a larger extent, Chypre Palatin by Parfums MDCI.

With the late-drydown consisting of tonka bean, traces of citrus and lavender, and possibly oakmoss, one feels that the name fails to adequately describe the fragrance itself. And although some lavender is quite perceptible throughout, it pretty much resides in the background. But, in saying that, it's still a lovely powdery and creamy citrus offering for those who have a sweet tooth.

Projection is moderate but it gracefully lingers on the skin for at least six hours.


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DolceDesiderio by Esperienze Olfattive

*****
Year: 2012

Notes: geranium, Bulgarian rose, Turkish rose, patchouli, labdanum, benzoin, vanilla, rosewood
Inspired by the 18th century novel No Tomorrow, by Dominique Vivant Denon, about a tryst between a Madame and her young lover, in a villa outside Paris, Dolcedesiderio is a luscious and romantic rose affair.

Devoid of any citrus accords, the geranium immediately sets the scene. The rose coupling that soon follows is radiant, voluptuous and very seductive. The Bulgarian rose stands out the most, with its crystalline, spicy and creamy elegance, and smells as natural as the very absolute itself. This exuberant and velvety stage lingers for some time, before a hint of patchouli comes to the fore. But, instead of going down the dreaded woody route, it heads down a creamy ambery path, which does more justice to the rose bouquet.

With a gentle dusty aspect, during the late-drydown, it's a beautiful rose creation with a timeless aura about it. Like most of Roberto Dario's offerings, it's seamlessly blended and possesses an organic quality. However, one wished that it had significantly more presence on the skin.

Lasting power is under two hours.


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