Dammuso by Profumo di Pantelleria

*****
Year: unknown

Notes: grapefruit, lemon, lime, blackberry, cardamom, green tea, vetiver, cedar, sandalwood, musk
Dammuso takes its name from the ancient dry stone houses, with white dome-shaped roofs, dotted around the landscapes of Pantelleria, Italy.

It opens with a tart and pulpy grapefruit note, which is supported by other citruses and some blackberry. These top notes are arrestingly zesty, as a dry green spiciness from the cardamom slowly infiltrates.

With a woody-musk base, which includes cedar and vetiver, it's a well-composed, transparent and easy to wear woody-citrus. However, like this house's other fragrances, it lacks sufficient depth and originality. In the case of Dammuso, one is often reminded of Parfums de Nicolaï's Balle de Match (now renamed L'Eau de Sport).

Wearing close to the skin, longevity is below four hours.


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Jailia by Profumo di Pantelleria

*****
Year: unknown

Notes: bergamot, bitter orange, pineapple, red fruits, peach, honey, patchouli, chocolate, vanilla, ambergris
Commencing with a fleeting fruity opening, Jailia is more about the honey, patchouli, chocolate and vanilla. It's also initially reminiscent of Thierry Mugler's Angel, but better constructed and more refined, before evolving into something more akin to the original Lolita Lempicka.

It's soft, not too sweet and possesses average longevity. However, its lack of originality does it no favours.


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Maestrale by Profumo di Pantelleria

*****
Year: 2006

Notes: bergamot, rhubarb, rum, coriander, cardamom, lavender, carnation, jasmine, iris, vetiver, cedar, ambrette seeds
A salty woody-musk concoction, with touches of rhubarb, coriander and cardamom would be the best possible description for Maestrale.

Quintessentially masculine, the citrus and rum are too ephemeral, with a nearly inconspicuous floral heart that only serves to add a slight sweetness. Later on, the vetiver imparts a woody dampness, which complements a discernible plant musk denouement. But, generally throughout, the cedar is the star of the show.

Both simplistic and minimalist in its stature, it stays close to the skin and possesses average longevity.


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Nicà by Profumo di Pantelleria

*****
Year: unknown

Notes: tangerine, grape, blueberry, cardamom, violet, freesia, cedar, sandalwood, musk
Nicà is a light and airy creation, which mainly focuses on the grape, violet, sandalwood and musk.

With the addition of honey and blueberry nuances, it's clean, somewhat creamy but monumentally dull. There's also a floral detergent sharpness, which gradually seeps through and intermingles with the woods. Possessing abysmal lasting power, it's extremely overpriced for what it offers.


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Aire by Profumo di Pantelleria

*****
Year: 2004

Notes: citrus, kiwi, white tea, jasmine, iris, tonka bean, white pepper, white musk
Aire is an inoffensively fresh tea scent. But, while pleasant to the nose, it's too ethereal and nondescript.

With an opening that's somewhat green and metallic, both the citrus and kiwi are dominated by a strong white tea accord. With the help of some florals and tonka bean, the astringency gradually softens to reveal a creamy sweetness, before a peppery white musk base emerges.

Although it's an intriguing release, it will probably only appeal to those looking for a clean or light tea fragrance. Personally, one would have preferred more substance, especially given the price.


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Oro 750‰ by Omnia Profumo

*****
Year: 2010

Notes: bergamot, lemon, lavender, lilac, cyclamen, peony, vanilla, coumarin, frankincense, patchouli, sandalwood, musk

Comment: Oro 750‰ is part of the Metalli Collection
Opening with sweet and full-bodied citrus-aromatic top notes, Oro 750‰ doesn't waste any time in unleashing its delectable floral core.

The lavender imparts a charming aromatic lift to the florals and the notes progress in complete unison. As soon as the vanilla makes its entrance, a dash of coumarin duly follows with its hay-like properties. During this time, an intense sweetness still persists, but the floral reign is short-lived and gradually consumed by the unyielding aromatic accords. Any evidence of frankincense is minuscule.

Possessing a rich woody foundation, the patchouli soon takes over the reins, but only until the sandalwood and musk are ready to reveal themselves. And as the woody-musk base flourishes, one can't help but sense a little disappointment in its humdrum finale, which has been done so many times before.

With an interesting first half, the composition lets itself down when the vanilla becomes more discernible. If the latter half has been just as compelling, it might have been rated higher.

Projection is acceptable and longevity is approximately eight hours.


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Argento 925‰ by Omnia Profumo

*****
Year: 2010

Notes: grapefruit, lemon, tangerine, ozonic notes, coriander, nutmeg, galbanum, geranium, frankincense, Russian leather, birch, cedar, teak, patchouli, vetiver, sandalwood

Comment: Argento 925‰ is part of the Metalli Collection
Argento 925‰ awakens the senses with a piquant citrus blast, prefacing a combination of geranium, galbanum and an ozonic accord. Within minutes, the nutmeg and frankincense surface, leading the composition towards familiar woody territory.

As the citruses finally vanish, traces of what went on before intermingle with the emerging woods, with minimal evidence of any leather. The composite woods are dry, peppery and resinous, but unexpectedly sweet. Resting on a soft sandalwood base, the final stages are ambery and creamy, though rather generic, with a fruity nuance that's almost peach-like.

Although one wouldn't deem its performance as similar to that of a designer fragrance, it still smells like a poor man's niche release. However, it's an interesting creation, which utilises the aquatic aspect effectively well and is relatively easy to wear.

Lasting at least ten hours, its sillage is also very good.


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Métaboles by Ys Uzac

*****
Year: 2011

Notes: bergamot, spearmint, black pepper, clove, liquorice, ivy leaves, tomato branches, galbanum, geranium, raspberry honey, labdanum, amber, benzoin, vanilla, sandalwood, white musks
Ys Uzac is a Swiss niche house, established in 2011 by perfumer Vincent Micotti. Under the artistic direction of Vera S. Yeoh, their ethos is "individuality, classical chic and extravagant expressions". With the name taken from a 1960s concerto by Henri Dutilleux, Métaboles is a classified as a contemporary fougère.

With an aromatic-green opening, similar to Frédéric Malle's Geranium pour Monsieur, the verdant acuteness of both the galbanum and leafy nuances are disappointingly ephemeral. However, the spearmint and geranium are evident for a while, as the clove and liquorice infuse a delicate aromatic sweetness to the proceedings.

During the mid notes, one is hard-pressed to detect any resins, but the raspberry honey appears to spearhead this stage. Some benzoin manages to peek through but, by this point, the sandalwood and white musks are in the process of hitting their stride. With most of the interesting accords having almost completely dispersed, all that remains is a humdrum musky oriental base.

Once again, it's another Ys Uzac creation that starts off promisingly, but is let down by a bland base of resins, woods and white musks. Sillage is no better than its siblings but it does persist for at least eight hours, which is of very little consolation.

As always with this nice house, it's well-blended but its general performance is insubstantial.


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Monodie by Ys Uzac

*****
Year: 2011

Notes: pink grapefruit, red mandarin, rhubarb, mirabelle, plum, galbanum, freesia, cyclamen, rose, caramel, sandalwood, white musks
Monodie is a musical term for "one solo voice singing a melodic part, usually with considerable ornamentation, over a rhythmically independent bass line".

It commences with an exquisitely rich and succulent parade of citruses, plums and rhubarb. The citrus accords are more candied than fresh, and the verdency from the galbanum is both soft and non-intrusive. However, when the delicate floral backdrop combines with the fruits, one can't help but equate its aroma to that of bubble gum. Possessing a woody-musk base, the caramel passes by virtually unnoticed.

Ultimately, it's a quintessentially feminine fragrance but more for the young at heart. Ironically, while its opening is the strongest of the initial Ys Uzac releases, it also has the worst staying power of under four hours.

An alluring opening but nothing more besides that.


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Lale by Ys Uzac

*****
Year: 2011

Notes: bergamot, orange, mandarin, apricot, pink pepper, saffron, white tea, wintersweet, osmanthus, rose, amber, benzoin, frankincense, leather, blond woods
"In French, 'la' means 'the' in the feminine, while 'le' is the masculine, which is fitting since Lale is a scent for men and women."

Lale is a fruity-floral that exudes a tart citrus opening. With quick succession, a smooth and warm osmanthus and apricot coupling emerges, adding some extra sweetness. Some saffron is discernible, but the gentle hints of rose and pepper are sporadic.

It should be noted that its evolution is very rapid, with resins and frankincense coyly peeking through. A leather note is also faintly present but stays in the background. With a hefty serving of woody musks, the composition continues to pulsate at the lowest volume possible.

While the osmanthus and apricot provide a certain edge, the base notes are somewhat generic. Furthermore, it has almost zero sillage, although it does have stellar longevity of at least eight hours. Sadly, the best part of its development is during the first hour – beyond that, it's nothing more than a woody-citrus musk affair, with some resinous remnants and faint floral traces.

All in all, it's a relatively pleasant unisex release but far from being bottle-worthy.


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