Superstitious by Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle

Year: 2017

Notes: aldehydes, peach, frankincense, Turkish rose, Egyptian jasmine, patchouli, amber, Haitian vetiver

Comment: Superstitious is part of the Par Frédéric Malle Collection
For the second instalment in the Par Frédéric Malle Collection, Superstitious acts as a homage to Moroccan-Israeli fashion designer Alber Elbaz.

With Dominique Ropion at the helm, it's an aldehydic-floral that's vaguely reminiscent of Lanvin's Arpège. But the composition still exudes a degree of modernity, opening with citric aldehydic top notes that's crisp, clean, metallic, waxy and in complete contrast to the vintage aura normally associated with such fragrances.

The peach is three-dimensional and evocative, as opposed to an obscure fruity sweetness, possessing tart and fleshy nuances. As it further develops, a one-two punch of rose and jasmine soon emerges – with a lush and silky rose component, and the jasmine exhibiting an indole-like creaminess. And even though it started out as rather loud, by the time the mid notes have been reached, its volume has lowered considerably, resulting in a soapy floral affair with mentholated subtleties.

Residing on a base of amber and woods, the patchouli adds a camphorous earthiness and the amber fortifies the preceding floral sweetness. One personally doesn't detect much frankincense, except for a wispy reminder here and there towards the end, but the vetiver ensures that the final drydown is soft and creamy with a serene grassy-woodiness.

By and large, it's a well-composed creation that, disregarding the treatment of the aldehydes, isn't going to be considered groundbreaking in any way. Remaining a skin scent, for most of its duration, it isn't as bombastic or tenacious as some have reported. However, it still comes recommended to those who enjoy mature floral elegance over adolescent floral triviality.