Untitled #8 by Untitled

Year: 2011

Notes: narcissus, tobacco, oud, black leather, fur, civet, feral musk

Comment: Untitled #8 is a limited edition release
As part of Luckyscent's Untitled series, Untitled #8 was created by Smell Bent's Brent Leonesio. With an array of animalic notes, and sold as a limited edition perfume oil, it's reportedly "not for the faint of heart".

However, while one found it both feral and alluring, it didn't quite measure up to one's expectations. One agrees that it could be considered both vulgar and challenging, especially to those who are unacquainted with genuine animal musk, but that's about as far as it goes. Yes, Untitled #8 is indeed a skanky and potentially polarising creation (such that Serge Lutens's Muscs Koublaï Khän could be considered extremely tame by comparison), but it does have some noticeable flaws.

To begin with, it's not as natural as originally anticipated, resulting in a lack of complexity. Upon the opening, a generous serving of civet is clearly evident but it seems to be of the artificial variety (known as civetone). While civetone serves as a respectable synthetic substitute, it still lacks the astringent faecal aspect and sweet floral underpinning of natural civet absolute. Then there's the 'feral musk' accord, which smells like a well-integrated cocktail of musk aroma chemicals. From this, one can clearly discern the presence of tonquitone – a synthetic replacement for natural deer musk, which possesses a metallic and musky caramel aroma. Beyond that, any barnyard attributes are heavily reliant on the tobacco, leather and oud.

With initial expectations of a dark, brash and unapologetic skankiness, it's more of a timid animalic musk, with leathery nuances and a caramelised sweetness. Now, this could largely be due to its oil base, but that in itself raises some questions and concerns – ranging from the type of carrier oil used and its shelf-life, to the official perfume concentration. Unfortunately, the absence of such important information doesn't really help matters at all. And while one acknowledges that perfume oils aren't always sillage monsters, one still found Untitled #8 to be lacking some much needed bite. In summary, it isn't as raw, animalic or potent as it could have been.

Providing moderate tenacity, it has great potential as a layering agent. But, regardless of its shortcomings, one would definitely recommend Untitled #8 over many of the third-rate animalic musk concoctions currently being churned out by niche houses – including (but not limited to) CB I Hate Perfume's CB Musk, Parfum d'Empire's Musc Tonkin, Nishane's Afrika Olifant and Les Liquides Imaginaires' Peau de Bete.