Rose Ishtar by Rania J.

*****
Year: 2012

Notes: bergamot, blackcurrant, Bulgarian rose, Damascus rose, patchouli, heliotropin, vanilla, sandalwood, musk
With a succulent bergamot and blackcurrant opening, Rose Ishtar is initially promising before disappointment abruptly sets in.

Comprising of two different types of rose, for the first few moments, it exhibits the various aspects of rose – the sweet jammy aspect, the iris-like lipstick nuances, a dewy floral freshness and the verdancy of a demure Ta'if rose. In most cases, the fruity top notes assist in creating this array of accents that rose is generally renowned for (particularly the blackcurrant with its green subtleties).

Regrettably, it's all downhill from there, with what went on before almost completely stripped away – resulting in a somewhat fresh and synthetic Bulgarian rose interacting with some spices. A little patchouli briefly appears, but it's the powdery and creamy woody-musky base that finally wins in the end.

While the opening is its main attraction, even at that stage one is strongly reminded of some of the offerings by Juliette Has a Gun. Also, there's a discreet plastic smokiness, towards the drydown, which is disconcerting at times. Personally, one wonders what could have been if the composition had headed in a completely direction, with better materials and blending.

Possessing a duration of under four hours on the skin, with moderate sillage, Rose Ishtar is yet another Rania Jouaneh effort that severely misses the mark.


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