Year: 1991
Notes: bergamot, lemon, lime, thyme, verbena, lavender, lilac, jasmine, leather, musk
Comment: Eau de Cologne review
Originally created in 1983, Gendarme was one of the first clean or anti-fragrance offerings to enter the fragrance market. Composed by Gendarme's founder, Topper Schroeder, it was initially intended to be used as a personal hypo-allergenic signature scent, which exuded a corporate yet sensual aura.
To some, it's the epitome of clean, with adjectives such as 'soapy', 'fresh', 'light' and 'crisp' often being bandied around. With brisk citrus top notes and supporting accords of lavender and jasmine, it emits a laundered out-of-the-shower effect, while the suede-like leather adds a gentle masculine touch. It's uncluttered and intentionally inoffensive in its demeanour and, like L'Antimatière by LesNez, induces olfactory fatigue when worn.
While it smells like fresh bed linen to many, one does have some issues with it. Although largely linear, it's too pedestrian for its own good, and possesses a clinical or sterile vibe about it. Furthermore, the drydown is akin to dry-cleaning chemicals – somewhat causing one to associate its aroma with that of a recently dry-cleaned shirt. But what's intriguing is how it's devoid of any woody notes, such as sandalwood, which could have added more depth to the composition.
It's very possible that all the above reservations were already taken into account, but it's still overpriced for what it offers (although its popularity among the Hollywood elite was probably an influential factor). With intermittent projection, it still lasts a credible eight hours.
It's certainly not a powerhouse but, then again, that was never its intention in the first place.
To some, it's the epitome of clean, with adjectives such as 'soapy', 'fresh', 'light' and 'crisp' often being bandied around. With brisk citrus top notes and supporting accords of lavender and jasmine, it emits a laundered out-of-the-shower effect, while the suede-like leather adds a gentle masculine touch. It's uncluttered and intentionally inoffensive in its demeanour and, like L'Antimatière by LesNez, induces olfactory fatigue when worn.
While it smells like fresh bed linen to many, one does have some issues with it. Although largely linear, it's too pedestrian for its own good, and possesses a clinical or sterile vibe about it. Furthermore, the drydown is akin to dry-cleaning chemicals – somewhat causing one to associate its aroma with that of a recently dry-cleaned shirt. But what's intriguing is how it's devoid of any woody notes, such as sandalwood, which could have added more depth to the composition.
It's very possible that all the above reservations were already taken into account, but it's still overpriced for what it offers (although its popularity among the Hollywood elite was probably an influential factor). With intermittent projection, it still lasts a credible eight hours.
It's certainly not a powerhouse but, then again, that was never its intention in the first place.
