No.88 by Czech & Speake

*****
Year: 1981

Notes: bergamot, cassie, geranium, rose otto, frangipani, black locust, vetiver, sandalwood
After almost unanimous praise, one is left feeling both bewildered and disappointed by this soapy patchouli and rose composition (with Nag Champa aspirations). The opening accords of bergamot and geranium are amazing but it soon goes rapidly downhill from there...

While No.88 possesses a classic barbershop aura, it unfortunately lacks sufficient longevity and sillage. Also, there's something quintessentially English (or rather old-fashioned) about it that doesn't appeal. Maybe it's the mannered and pompous Victorian undercurrents but, then again, it could simply be because it's too restrained and flaccid for one's tastes.

Personally, one much prefers something stronger, more contemporary and with a significant sensual edge, and Montale's Black Aoud has managed to satisfy all of these requirements more than satisfactorily. They may not be exactly the same but they definitely work on a similar premise, with Black Aoud rendering a degree of lush romanticism that No.88 can only dream of.


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