Sugarwood by Costamor

*****
Year: 2009

Notes: bergamot, fig, sugar cane pulp, peony, jasmine, iris, cedar, musk
After an uplifting but brief bergamot overture, Sugarwood initially smells sweet but not excessively so. With the fig providing a jammy facet, it's more of a honeyed sweetness once paired with the sugar cane pulp.

The majority of the florals remain subtle throughout, but it's the iris and emerging cedar that imposes an almost medicinal quality to the mid notes. It's at this stage where the composition smells closest to the aroma of raw sugar cane but, sadly, it doesn't last particularly long.

Unfortunately, that's as good as it gets, with the cedar leading the proceedings towards a sweet immortelle-like musky drydown. As the sweetness gradually fades away, it becomes earthier than before – with an observable peppery nuance that slowly transforms into a subdued burnt facet. Personally, one would have preferred a more interesting component than a predictable cedar-infused base.

With discreet projection and good staying power, it's a good effort but there's nothing else to convince one that it's anything more than that.


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