Year: 2015
Notes: Calabrian bergamot, Sicilian lemon, Calabrian mandarin, Paraguayan petitgrain, Chinese ginger, Egyptian jasmine, white amber, Haitian vetiver, Slovenian oakmoss
Comment: Mandarine Glaciale is part of the Collection Azur
Opening with a somewhat subdued array of citruses, Mandarine Glaciale comes across as a somewhat duller version of Orange Sanguine, but with a generous serving of ginger thrown in for good measure.
There's also a rooty or earthy aspect that's rather prominent in the citrus introduction, which is probably due to the ginger and (to a larger extent) vetiver. With predictable notes, such as jasmine and amber, one finds it very difficult to discern any oakmoss during the drydown. Ultimately, it's all very underwhelming.
Packaged in deep venetian blue glass bottles, with a leather label, the concept of the Collection Azur revolves around "where sea and sky become one". But, from a cynical point of view, this collection is practically a rip-off of Acqua di Parma's Blu Mediterraneo line – both conceptually and aesthetically.
It wouldn't be so terrible if the fragrances themselves were half-decent but, with the exception of Figuier Ardent, they're clearly not. When a niche house becomes more focused on increasing market share, than building up a consistently impressive portfolio, it completely betrays what 'niche' supposedly stands for. Mandarine Glaciale is further indication that Atelier Cologne is yet another niche house that values profit margins over artistry.
Both sillage and lasting power are sorely lacking.
There's also a rooty or earthy aspect that's rather prominent in the citrus introduction, which is probably due to the ginger and (to a larger extent) vetiver. With predictable notes, such as jasmine and amber, one finds it very difficult to discern any oakmoss during the drydown. Ultimately, it's all very underwhelming.
Packaged in deep venetian blue glass bottles, with a leather label, the concept of the Collection Azur revolves around "where sea and sky become one". But, from a cynical point of view, this collection is practically a rip-off of Acqua di Parma's Blu Mediterraneo line – both conceptually and aesthetically.
It wouldn't be so terrible if the fragrances themselves were half-decent but, with the exception of Figuier Ardent, they're clearly not. When a niche house becomes more focused on increasing market share, than building up a consistently impressive portfolio, it completely betrays what 'niche' supposedly stands for. Mandarine Glaciale is further indication that Atelier Cologne is yet another niche house that values profit margins over artistry.
Both sillage and lasting power are sorely lacking.
