Figuier Ardent by Atelier Cologne

*****
Year: 2015

Notes: Calabrian bergamot, Madagascan black pepper, Guatemalan cardamom, Turkish aniseed, fig leaf from Provence, salty fig, iris from Tuscany, Brazilian tonka bean, Virginian cedar

Comment: Figuier Ardent is part of the Collection Azur
With apparent parallels to L'Artisan's Premier Figuier and Diptyque's Philosykos, Figuier Ardent comes across as more natural than these two classic niche renditions of fig.

However, once the vibrant bergamot and fig opening dissipates, the spices end up being too heavy-handed and stunt the composition's momentum (particularly the aniseed, which feels misplaced). During the mid-stage, the fig re-emerges but, this time, is creamier rather than fresh.

With a powderiness from the iris, the tonka bean and cedar drydown is disappointingly generic. Personally, one would have much preferred the verdant fig aspect to persist all the way through. Instead, any verdancy recedes straight after the opening and occasionally reappears throughout the drydown. But, whenever the fig is firmly in the driver's seat, it's convincingly juicy and hyperrealistic.

While it's far from perfect, it's still a respectable addition to the slew of fig fragrances currently available. Sillage is moderate but it persists on the skin for several hours.


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