Phi – Une Rose de Kandahar by Tauer Perfumes

Year: 2013

Notes: bergamot, apricot, cinnamon, bitter almond, Bourbon geranium, Afghan rose, Bulgarian rose, tobacco leaf, tonka bean, patchouli, vetiver, vanilla, ambergris, musk

Comment: Phi – Une Rose de Kandahar is part of the Collectibles Collection
Inspired by the roses produced in Nangarhar, an eastern province in Afghanistan, Phi – Une Rose de Kandahar contains of an extremely rare variety of Afgan rose essential oil.

It begins with a sparkling and creamy rose bouquet, which is surprisingly subdued in a spicy manner. However, within minutes, it has already stood down to allow the other notes a chance in the spotlight, thus ruling out any rose-prominent assumptions (the Collectibles Collection aims to use one rare ingredient for each olfactory idea, but these components won't necessarily be the star notes).

The bergamot enhances the buoyancy of the rose accords, and the apricot instils a mellow and yellowish-pink plumminess to the proceedings that, alongside the almond, briefly yields a gourmand-like flourish. With subtle hints of tobacco and geranium, the heart is even more restrained than the opening, and any rose influence has already been depleted. As things draw to a close, a musky Tauerade base produces ambery whispers.

Overall, it's probably Andy's most interesting effort in the last two or three years. It's smooth, well-constructed and possesses a dignified aura. However, its main drawbacks are its minimal sillage and below average staying power. Still, it's great to see glimmers of the old Andy Tauer at work.