Gendarme V by Gendarme

*****
Year: 2000

Notes: bergamot, lemon, basil, lemon balm, verbena, ylang-ylang, vetiver, tonka bean, civet
With a 15% concentration of perfume oils, Gendarme V is supposedly a vetiver-based offering. However, one is hard-pressed to detect much vetiver in the composition.

It's only slightly greener than Gendarme, with a tad more citrus and sweetness, plus a less soapy demeanour. Featuring an intriguing ylang-ylang accord, there's also a noticeable raunchy or animalic vibe (courtesy of some civet). With regards to the rest of the notes, they help to create a vague citric green context, which nestles on an almost metallic-smelling tonka bean base.

Ultimately, it isn't the vetiver-centric creation that one had been eagerly anticipating – making it a disappointing precursor to Thierry Mugler's Mugler Cologne. However, both the ylang-ylang and civet do manage to provide a little edge.

As always with most of this house's releases, sillage is low with reasonable longevity.


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