Orange Sanguine by Atelier Cologne

*****
Year: 2010

Notes: Spanish bitter orange, Italian blood orange and red mandarin, Madagascan black pepper, South African geranium, Egyptian jasmine, Brazilian tonka bean, Texan cedar, Indonesian sandalwood

Comment: Orange Sanguine is part of the Collection Originale

Realistically encapsulating the sweet sparkling juiciness of freshly-peeled oranges, Orange Sanguine acts as a superior counterpart to Grand Néroli.

While comparisons to Hermès' Eau d'Orange Verte and Concentré d'Orange Verte are unavoidable, it's certainly richer and more tenacious than the Hermès' offerings but also less astringent and green. The overall impression it conveys is that of someone who has peeled and segmented a few oranges – with the aroma of pulp, zest and rind still evidently emitting from their hands.

The geranium perfectly complements the citrus accords, enhancing the composition's olfactory disposition with subtle green flourishes. Also, the jasmine serves as a perfect foil for the transition from the heart to the creamy foundation of tonka bean, cedar and sandalwood. The sweetness is well-balanced and, although lacking Grand Néroli's elegance, is voluptuous and free-spirited in its general demeanour.

Richer than Frédéric Malle's Bigarade Concentrée, more tenacious than Acqua di Parma's Arancia di Capri and more natural-smelling when compared to Clinique's Happy for Men, Orange Sanguine is an impressive rendition with adequate sillage and better lasting power than originally expected.


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