Gardenia by Isabey

Year: 2004

Notes: Italian tangerine, orange blossom, Bulgarian rose, ylang-ylang, jasmine, gardenia, iris, Indian sandalwood, ambergris, musk
Originally released in the 1920s, Gardenia isn't really a true gardenia fragrance but more of a complex gardenia soliflore.

Deprived of any overtly fresh, green or tropical associations, it's a warm, luscious and sweet floral creation, with a subtle retro aura. The notes are extremely well-blended, with the ylang-ylang, jasmine and iris being the more discernible floral accords. Draped over a sensual base of ambergris, sandalwood and musk, one is also able to detect the presence of some vanilla or tonka bean, especially during its delicate and powdery drydown.

While it smells luxurious, it also shares obvious similarities with Robert Piquet's Fracas. Such striking parallels are bound to occur but one much prefers Gardenia's exquisite complexity. With a distinctive creamy quality to the composition, it oozes mature femininity and sophistication in the best possible way.

With extremely good lasting power and moderate sillage, it could have been slightly more potent. However, one still remains both enchanted and impressed by its feminine charms.