Year: 2000
Notes: bergamot, aldehydes, apricot, sage, cumin, cassie, violet, rose, mimosa, jasmine, salicylate, carnation, clove, vanilla, cedar, sandalwood, musk cetone
With Dominique Ropion at the helm, Une Fleur de Cassie is a nostalgic and dexterous aldehydic-floral, which towers above most of the feminine dreck being released nowadays. Incorporating a certain degree of modernity, it's also a challenging composition that refuses to please everyone.
Opening with citrus and aldehydes, one senses a heady and cumin-infused botanical floral trail, which smells both industrial and indolic at the same time. Enshrouded in a fog of rubber and exhaust fumes, with underlying vegetal, metallic and doughy accents, it's impossible to overlook its austere and detached floral premise. With that in mind, one can also discern certain olfactory parallels between Une Fleur de Cassie and Carnal Flower, which was released five years later.
It's been mentioned elsewhere that the general aroma is similar to that of stale tap water in a vase, and there's a certain element of truth in that. Beyond the generous serving of jasmine, the dusky rose, the subdued violet, the carnation's spicy nuances, and the verdancy of both the cassie and mimosa, there's a dank green ozonic quality present. When combined, this earthy and animalic cocktail of herbs, spices, florals, woods and musks closely allude to the aforementioned description.
Featuring a light base of woods, vanilla and white musk, its projection and longevity are both alarmingly subpar. While this is disappointing, one can't deny that it's refined, complex and cerebral in its abstract androgyny. For that alone, one will award it an extra star.
Opening with citrus and aldehydes, one senses a heady and cumin-infused botanical floral trail, which smells both industrial and indolic at the same time. Enshrouded in a fog of rubber and exhaust fumes, with underlying vegetal, metallic and doughy accents, it's impossible to overlook its austere and detached floral premise. With that in mind, one can also discern certain olfactory parallels between Une Fleur de Cassie and Carnal Flower, which was released five years later.
It's been mentioned elsewhere that the general aroma is similar to that of stale tap water in a vase, and there's a certain element of truth in that. Beyond the generous serving of jasmine, the dusky rose, the subdued violet, the carnation's spicy nuances, and the verdancy of both the cassie and mimosa, there's a dank green ozonic quality present. When combined, this earthy and animalic cocktail of herbs, spices, florals, woods and musks closely allude to the aforementioned description.
Featuring a light base of woods, vanilla and white musk, its projection and longevity are both alarmingly subpar. While this is disappointing, one can't deny that it's refined, complex and cerebral in its abstract androgyny. For that alone, one will award it an extra star.
