Carnal Flower by Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle

*****
Year: 2005

Notes: camphor, bergamot, melon, eucalyptus, orange blossom, ylang-ylang, jasmine, tuberose, salicylate, coconut, white musks
Carnal Flower is a cool, aloof and earthy tuberose soliflore. Comprising of the highest concentration of tuberose absolute currently on the market, it isn't as tenacious as one was expecting. Instead, its lasting power is below average with eventual minimal sillage.

Starting with a camphorous blast, coupled with some eucalyptus, the scene's set for its standoffish and distant demeanour. Equally contributing towards the gradual diffusion of the buttery richness of the tuberose, the green jasmine soon joins the fray. Although coconut isn't particularly a note that one favours, here it's very evident but also well-integrated. As for a melon accord, it's far too subdued to detect.

However, as the earthy green florals dominate the proceedings, one can't help but discern a noticeable parallel with some of Dominique Ropion's other efforts for this house – a clinical musk base, infused with either a green or woody theme. For a composition like Vétiver Extraordinaire, it's excusable as it perfectly complements what preceded the drydown. But with Carnal Flower, the tuberose is soon oppressed to a fault.

Regardless of one's reservations, the overall quality is very impressive but, while it's classified as unisex, many men might find the first half of its evolution too feminine to be worn with confidence.


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