Year: 2000
Notes: bergamot, orange, aldehydes, lily of the valley, violetta rose, magnolia, carnation, ylang-ylang, jasmine, iris, vanilla, tonka bean, amber, rosewood, ebony, vetiver, sandalwood, musk
Created by Pierre Bourdon, Iris Poudre pays tribute to Chanel's Chanel No.5 and ramps up the iris.
As an aldehydic-floral, it's soft, cool, elegant and relatively powdery, with a moderately sweet yet well-balanced structure. The citrus accords serve to heighten the aldehydic opening, as a sophisticated floral mélange shortly follows – initially possessing a vibrant freshness, before transforming into something spicy and creamy. As for the powdery iris, its lipstick accents are never too imposing.
However, by the second half of its lifespan, it becomes less striking and more timid. By the time the floral core has reached a creamy plateaux, an array of amber, woods, vanilla and musk gradually infiltrate. This transition is virtually seamless, as traces of sweet florals intertwine with a mild sandalwood-infused oriental base.
A subdued damp earthiness is later discernible, particularly from the vetiver, but the drydown never manages to maintain one's interest for very long. Although this stage could be considered more unisex, one wished that its earlier antiquated solemnity continued to persist for significantly longer.
Iris Poudre isn't a fragrance that one would personally wear, but it's still a great example of an iris soliflore done very well. And while some may find it too feminine, it certainly highlights the shortcomings of the more artificial masculine iris offerings, such as Christian Dior's Dior Homme.
Sillage is moderate, after the first two hours, with average lasting power.
As an aldehydic-floral, it's soft, cool, elegant and relatively powdery, with a moderately sweet yet well-balanced structure. The citrus accords serve to heighten the aldehydic opening, as a sophisticated floral mélange shortly follows – initially possessing a vibrant freshness, before transforming into something spicy and creamy. As for the powdery iris, its lipstick accents are never too imposing.
However, by the second half of its lifespan, it becomes less striking and more timid. By the time the floral core has reached a creamy plateaux, an array of amber, woods, vanilla and musk gradually infiltrate. This transition is virtually seamless, as traces of sweet florals intertwine with a mild sandalwood-infused oriental base.
A subdued damp earthiness is later discernible, particularly from the vetiver, but the drydown never manages to maintain one's interest for very long. Although this stage could be considered more unisex, one wished that its earlier antiquated solemnity continued to persist for significantly longer.
Iris Poudre isn't a fragrance that one would personally wear, but it's still a great example of an iris soliflore done very well. And while some may find it too feminine, it certainly highlights the shortcomings of the more artificial masculine iris offerings, such as Christian Dior's Dior Homme.
Sillage is moderate, after the first two hours, with average lasting power.
