Year: 2010
Notes: raspberry, blackcurrant, pepper, cinnamon, clove, frankincense, Turkish rose, patchouli, benzoin, sandalwood, ambroxan, white musks
Portrait of a Lady is the third rose-themed release from this house. But, unlike Une Rose, one isn't completely enamoured with it. Created by Dominique Ropion, it contains hefty doses of rose essence and patchouli heart. And while this alone is technically groundbreaking, the end result isn't particularly original or satisfying.
Moreover, one gets the impression that the base of Geranium pour Monsieur (also by Dominique Ropion) has largely been used as the foundation for Portrait of a Lady (i.e. frankincense, sandalwood, ambroxan and white musks). In addition, Portrait of a Lady also showcases similar spices to Geranium pour Monsieur, albeit more understated (i.e. cinnamon and clove). But it's the ambroxan and white musks that cause the most offence – revealing a clean, yet synthetic and monotonous, ambery muskiness from the mid notes onwards.
While the rose opening is undeniably lush, it still lacks the vividness of Une Rose and later becomes obscured by various other notes. Also, the patchouli heart, as expected, is clean and devoid of most of the camphorous-earthy properties found in ordinary patchouli essential oils. However, its role mainly serves to reinforce the fruity accords, which accentuate the rose, than providing a distinguished woody leaning.
All in all, there's something soulless about it and, while it provides excellent projection and staying power, one was hoping for something more enchanting and less clinical.
Moreover, one gets the impression that the base of Geranium pour Monsieur (also by Dominique Ropion) has largely been used as the foundation for Portrait of a Lady (i.e. frankincense, sandalwood, ambroxan and white musks). In addition, Portrait of a Lady also showcases similar spices to Geranium pour Monsieur, albeit more understated (i.e. cinnamon and clove). But it's the ambroxan and white musks that cause the most offence – revealing a clean, yet synthetic and monotonous, ambery muskiness from the mid notes onwards.
While the rose opening is undeniably lush, it still lacks the vividness of Une Rose and later becomes obscured by various other notes. Also, the patchouli heart, as expected, is clean and devoid of most of the camphorous-earthy properties found in ordinary patchouli essential oils. However, its role mainly serves to reinforce the fruity accords, which accentuate the rose, than providing a distinguished woody leaning.
All in all, there's something soulless about it and, while it provides excellent projection and staying power, one was hoping for something more enchanting and less clinical.
