Year: 2013
Notes: bergamot, lemon, nutmeg, clove, saffron, jasmine, methyl ionone, patchouli, tonka bean, vanilla, ethyl maltol, sulfurol, guaiac wood, Peru balsam, Mysore sandalwood, cashmeran
Comment: Dries van Noten is part of the Par Frédéric Malle Collection
This 2013 release is the first in a new Frédéric Malle collection – its main purpose being to "translate the world of people and brands that I admire into scents". Belgian fashion designer, Dries van Noten, is the first olfactory portrait of people that Frédéric Malle admires and respects.
Composed by Bruno Jovanovic, Dries van Noten draws its inspiration from the sweet, warm and vanillic aromas of Flemish pastries. Using Mysore sandalwood as a starting point, its creamy woodiness is further augmented by the addition of some tonka bean, vanilla, guaiac wood and Peru balsam. In addition, ethyl maltol (an organic compound that emits a caramelised sugar aroma) and sulfurol (also known as sacrasol, and possesses milky, nutty and yeasty properties) have been included to accentuate the composition's patisserie concept.
This "monumental warmth" is complemented by a gentle serving of saffron and other spices. Collectively, these accords are nestled between an array of tart citruses and a dollop of cashmeran musk in the base. With subtle white floral facets, it's a spicy woody-gourmand that's comforting. As a result, it's far removed from this house's more distant and aloof offerings.
Overall, it's sweet and creamy, with an inviting spicy warmth. However, one very much doubts that it contains a significant amount of Mysore sandalwood, with the 'enhancing' notes covering up the discrepancy. Furthermore, the high dose of cashmeran is particularly discernible, resulting in a faux woody-musk aura throughout.
The closest Frédéric Malle creation one can compare Dries van Noten to is Musc Ravageur. But one personally believes that Dries van Noten smells a lot closer to Comme des Garçons' long-discontinued Burnt Sugar... with Francis Kurkdjian's fingerprints all over it. Thus, as much as one finds it reasonably enjoyable to wear, it's not that groundbreaking or original.
Projection is modest but its staying power is excellent, persisting for at least ten hours.
Composed by Bruno Jovanovic, Dries van Noten draws its inspiration from the sweet, warm and vanillic aromas of Flemish pastries. Using Mysore sandalwood as a starting point, its creamy woodiness is further augmented by the addition of some tonka bean, vanilla, guaiac wood and Peru balsam. In addition, ethyl maltol (an organic compound that emits a caramelised sugar aroma) and sulfurol (also known as sacrasol, and possesses milky, nutty and yeasty properties) have been included to accentuate the composition's patisserie concept.
This "monumental warmth" is complemented by a gentle serving of saffron and other spices. Collectively, these accords are nestled between an array of tart citruses and a dollop of cashmeran musk in the base. With subtle white floral facets, it's a spicy woody-gourmand that's comforting. As a result, it's far removed from this house's more distant and aloof offerings.
Overall, it's sweet and creamy, with an inviting spicy warmth. However, one very much doubts that it contains a significant amount of Mysore sandalwood, with the 'enhancing' notes covering up the discrepancy. Furthermore, the high dose of cashmeran is particularly discernible, resulting in a faux woody-musk aura throughout.
The closest Frédéric Malle creation one can compare Dries van Noten to is Musc Ravageur. But one personally believes that Dries van Noten smells a lot closer to Comme des Garçons' long-discontinued Burnt Sugar... with Francis Kurkdjian's fingerprints all over it. Thus, as much as one finds it reasonably enjoyable to wear, it's not that groundbreaking or original.
Projection is modest but its staying power is excellent, persisting for at least ten hours.
