Year: 2003
Notes: wine dregs, blue camomile, geranium, Turkish rose, truffle, patchouli, vetiver, castoreum
After the mediocre Lipstick Rose, Une Rose is a massive improvement from this French niche house.
It's a well-executed rose soliflore, with a complementary booziness from the wine dregs, a lush rose accord, a minty green vibrancy from the geranium, dark earthy aspects from the truffle and patchouli, and primal nuances from the castoreum. All of these come together to create a vivid rendition of rose, which magnifies the star note and exudes an almost gothic romanticism.
Unlike many other rose fragrances, it isn't fresh, dewy, soapy or powdery, even though the citrus opening may briefly suggest otherwise. Instead, it's a dusky and voluptuous crimson affair, with the rose's honeyed plum-like sweetness seeping through. And as opposed to possessing a youthful pink-infused femininity, the overall effect is more brooding, sensual and sophisticated.
Unfortunately, its evolution isn't perfect from start to finish. As it further develops, the musky drydown turns out to be the composition's Achilles' heel – featuring a trite cocktail of acetone and white musks. Although the dark rose aroma is still evident, one would have preferred a less synthetic conclusion. While one wouldn't class this stage as grating, it's certainly discernible to a degree.
Composed by Edouard Flechier, who also created Lys Méditerranée, Une Rose is somewhat flawed but still an impressive effort. With both these offerings being so well-received, on this blog, one does wonder why Frédéric Malle and Edouard Flechier haven't teamed-up again since.
Providing adequate sillage and longevity, it should also be pointed out that its price tag is very expensive.
It's a well-executed rose soliflore, with a complementary booziness from the wine dregs, a lush rose accord, a minty green vibrancy from the geranium, dark earthy aspects from the truffle and patchouli, and primal nuances from the castoreum. All of these come together to create a vivid rendition of rose, which magnifies the star note and exudes an almost gothic romanticism.
Unlike many other rose fragrances, it isn't fresh, dewy, soapy or powdery, even though the citrus opening may briefly suggest otherwise. Instead, it's a dusky and voluptuous crimson affair, with the rose's honeyed plum-like sweetness seeping through. And as opposed to possessing a youthful pink-infused femininity, the overall effect is more brooding, sensual and sophisticated.
Unfortunately, its evolution isn't perfect from start to finish. As it further develops, the musky drydown turns out to be the composition's Achilles' heel – featuring a trite cocktail of acetone and white musks. Although the dark rose aroma is still evident, one would have preferred a less synthetic conclusion. While one wouldn't class this stage as grating, it's certainly discernible to a degree.
Composed by Edouard Flechier, who also created Lys Méditerranée, Une Rose is somewhat flawed but still an impressive effort. With both these offerings being so well-received, on this blog, one does wonder why Frédéric Malle and Edouard Flechier haven't teamed-up again since.
Providing adequate sillage and longevity, it should also be pointed out that its price tag is very expensive.
