Citrine by Olivier Durbano

*****
Year: 2011

Notes: Sicilian lemon, wild orange, elemi, ginger, pink pepper, carrot seed, mimosa, rosewood, guaiac wood, myrrh, beeswax, ambergris, musk
Being the final instalment in the regarded Bijoux de Pierres Poèmes series, Paris-based jeweller and perfumer Olivier Durbano presents his olfactory interpretation of the seventh gemstone, Citrine.

Commencing with a sweet and vibrant opening, it's largely a woody-citrus affair with a touch of elemi. Strangely enough, the ginger, black pepper and carrot seed are too preoccupied playing hide and seek, while the elemi dramatically lowers its volume within moments. The woods and myrrh attempt to provide further body, but it's a futile effort since the overall composition smells both anaemic and trite.

With unsatisfactory sillage and average longevity, even the pleasantly understated beeswax and musk drydown can't prevent this underwhelming series from ending on a pathetic whimper.


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