Tubereuse 40 by Le Labo

*****
Year: 2006

Notes: bergamot, citron, tangerine, petitgrain, rosemary, neroli, orange blossom, centifolia rose, mimosa, jasmine, tuberose, benzoin, cedar, oakmoss, sandalwood, ambrette seed, musk

Comment: Tubereuse 40 is the City Exclusive for New York

So, how many hesperidic fragrances does Le Labo feel the need to unleash onto the general public? And, more importantly, what's the point in making one of them a City Exclusive when there are already three other variants to choose from (Fleur d'Oranger 27, Jasmin 17 and Bergamote 22)? The mind boggles...

As expected with this house, Tubereuse 40 isn't strictly a tuberose offering but yet another neroli rendition, with the clichéd ambery-woody musk base (but this time, some oakmoss has been included). Personally, out of the above siblings, Jasmin 17 is the only one that could seriously give Tubereuse 40 a run for its money.

Created by Alberto Morillas, with a 30% concentration of natural oils, the first 15 minutes is an effervescent and voluptuous harmony of citrus, petitgrain, neroli and orange blossom. With subtle touches of tuberose and other florals, the opening is nothing short of incredible. But that alone isn't enough and the composition falters before the first hour passes – nose-diving into faint soapy musk territory and languishing there for several hours.

Although it's a parfum extrait, it should be seen as a tenacious Eau de Cologne more than anything else (albeit a very expensive one). With that said, an extra star is duly awarded for the gloriously rich opening alone.


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