Jasmin 17 by Le Labo

*****
Year: 2006

Notes: bitter orange, litsea cubeba, neroli, orange blossom, palmarosa, jasmine, amber, vanilla, sandalwood, musk
When about one-quarter of a niche house's standard line are either orange blossom or neroli based offerings, it can easily lead to much bewilderment and irritation. With so many other notes and themes to explore, it would be perfectly acceptable to accuse Le Labo of sheer complacency.

Released around the same time as Fleur d'Oranger 27 and Neroli 36, Jasmin 17 is one's preferred choice out of the trio. But it's neither a soliflore, as the name would suggest, nor is it indolic or jasmine heavy. With the bitter orange, orange blossom and neroli opening, an eloquent jasmine accord tip toes around the peripheries of this Mediterranean-themed milieu, bestowing crystalline, green and elegant subtleties.

With a sensual base of vanilla, sandalwood and musk, the amber acts as an effective intermediary between the citrus-floral and oriental coteries. As its sensual premise combines with lingering traces of the floral heart, the end result is both an alluring and intoxicating finale.

Unfortunately, both sillage and tenacity are unsatisfactorily so-so. Nevertheless, Le Labo has finally succeeded in creating something that genuinely compels, as well as being in possession of some originality.


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